Routes in Japan for selected grade

The obvious chimney contains some in situ protection.

On the face around the right hand side of the arête.

7 kyuu

Up the arete right of Cinderella, and keeping right of that climb to the top

P1 - III+, Left and up the corner, 35m

P2 - II, Snow and rock ridge, 250m

P3 - IV+, Strait up the corner, 50m

P4 - II, Snow Slope, 30m

P5 - II, Strait up the steep rock, or around the the pinicle to the left, 30m.

P6 - II, Traverse right on the band, or strait up the corner at IV+, 40m

Falls up to 15m

Start as for Ōkaku, then step down and hand traverse the lip leftwards round the corner. When the lip steepens, finish by mantelling onto the hanging slab.

The finger crack that widens to hands on the slab.

Hard for the grade.

The shallow crack.

Start sitting at the base of the arête and pull on using crimps. Swing round left onto the slab and climb this to finish.

Mantle onto the sticking out hold.

Step onto the boulder, then trend rightwards to the top. Name means 'gentle'.

Start as for Mudai (1 kyū), but pull round right onto the slab, which is then climbed to finish.

Use the vertical flake below the lip to climb direct to the top.

Climb up the boulder starting from the undercling. A sit start is also possible coming in from the left at around 6A+.

Climb up and left to ring anchors.

Climb up the face to a large flake then continue up and to the right to a large bolder that you can sling at the top. you will have to leave gear to rappel off or down climb the easy 5.6 terrain. be care full of loose rock.

nuts slings and a single rack up to trango/Metolious #8 double up on trango #4 and #5.

Better done as a top rope. The gear is not great and the rock quality for gear is pretty bad but the climb itself is good. Will most likely get bolted in the future. Bolted anchor. "

Equipped By: Tim Larick, Bo Buckley