Routes in Jordan for selected grade

Overhanging and snaking. No chord at the anchor, rapell.

First 2 bolts missing.

Was originally bolted by Wilfried, rebolted and renamed Mar, 2020 by Aboud Hijazi, Farah, Safa and Nadeen.

Each pitch around 50m, starting left of a tree then trending right to a ledge, then up to the left side of the 'mouth'. Climb up to follow the left side of the 'nose' then right above the right 'eye' and the overhanging 'eyelid' to the summit slabs, left of the gully. Enjoyable and well-protected (bolts, threads and trad pro).

Descent Walk off to the NW, veering left and down a well-cairned fairytale-type rock garden where beautiful mosaic-type rock provides an added bonus to the day. (Would be a very nice scramble in ascent.)

Access: you go down from rajef village to this gpx point (30.21009, 35.41773) then go down on side canyon that's connect with atajra canyon untill reach this gpx point (30.21546, 35.41651) this is the start point for green shirt also.

P1: Shared pitch with green shirt you can use existing statio

P2: traverse after finish first pitch go direct left up to juniper tree (عرعر) you will find a thread behind crack

P3: Straight up you need size 3 can for crack little bit soft stone when you finish you will find bolt to traverse left for station and you will find thread behind crack

P4: Go back to crack or climb the face of crack you will find thread when you finish will find a column and 2 juniper tree use second one for station

P5: If you have enough experience you can just do it buy using short rope technics

After you just walk 15 min to car you will find in the way up old ruins

Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book

1. f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.

2. Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4

3. f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.

4. f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).

5. f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.

6. (A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams

7. f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct

8. f3

9. f3

Descent:

Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).

Topos: Howard guidebook #25.

Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.

P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.

P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.

P3: Follow the crack, sling belay.

P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay.

P5: Left leaning corner to the end.

rap descent

Done only on top rope in the past

Follows a big corner on the left, bolted stations but trad on the route, consistent climbing with a couple of fun crux problems on pitch 3. Possible to walk off and descend along the ridgeline at climbers right (45 mins) but not worth it and a bit hairy. Abseil descent recommended, but you will need two ropes or an 80m!

• P1 5a/5b ~30m; climb either the corner or the face, has some hollow sounding flakes. Sustained and tense for a warm up. Bolted belay inside the corner.
• P2 5a ~35/40m; Climb out the corner and head up the face bridging every now and then, reaching a big ledge with a bolt and piton.
• P3 5c+/6a ~35/40m; Starting with a tricky chimney then slab up to the crux. The crux involves a twin cracked chimney above a ledge, which can be reasonably protected (it may have lost some good holds which is why the book grades at 5-). Then ramp up to the final problem a corner hand crack with hollow flakes on the left wall. A big thread at the top.

The name story: When the first recorded ascent by Britich/French climbers in 1987 they found slings in place, that's why they called it Runner-up.

No fixed anchors. The climb follows the corner crack all the way, either staying in it or out on the face in places. Risk of loose rock.

Descent: After the final climbing pitch, head right through the narrow passage. After this head right and scramble down the dry gully (there are plants). Follow the cairns along the ridge line and after a short down climb head right then back left down another gully to a 30m repel from 2 threads. (30 - 60 mins)

Alternatively, rappel down the main face along the route "Garbure et Cornichons", on 4 anchors. The top anchor is a thread with slings, that can be reached with a slightly hairy downclimbing move of 3. From there rappel trending left, to find another thread with slings. Rap from this continuing slightly left, to find a bolt and a piton (twin 60s will reach the floor from here). 4th station on top of the block (unverified) Risk of loose rock during rappel.

An awesome cave!

Approach

Climb starts inside Salman Zwaidh camp, please say hello to Musa who owns the camp before starting, he's a very nice man. The hole (Cave) is pretty obvious its on the north face of Jebel Hassani. Its north facing but got the sun form around 9-12 in the summer.

Gear

You'll need at least 10 quick draws for the last pitch along with normal trad. Double 60m ropes.

Time

8 hours.

1. f4+: Climb up through the awesome cave and pop out the top. Some in situ slings which you might not require depending on your path. Some hollow sounding threads. Scrambling up the cave entrance is pretty easy.

2. f4+: Don't head to the left corner. Walk across the plateau and try to eyeball the black streak which goes all the way to the top. This pitch could start anywhere as there are plenty of options.

3. f4: Climb on up cracks and features to another big ledge to reach the black face of the final pitch.

4. f5c+ 50m: Sustained undulating face climbing all the way on black rock, has around 10 very spaced out bolts with limited trad options in between. Top out to a bolt and thread.

Descent

The FAs describe a scramble left and a 30m repel, our version is a bit different.

• Scramble left (East), 40m repel from bolt and piton.
• Head west then short repel from thread.

From here there are 2 options.

• snake your way down the way you came on broken ground to a full 60m repel from a big thread (tie knots) to the plateau next to the start hole.

Or easier

• Head east following cairns to a gully which leads to the Siq um al Tawaqi with another long repel.