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Jebel M'zeygeh

  • Grade context: FR
  • Approach time: 20
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 28
  • Aka: المزيلقة
13

Seasonality

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Summary

The most maintained sport climbing crag at Wadi Rum grades (5a - 6b+)

Approach

Take a Beduien taxi from the village (20 mins)

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 5b
2 5a
3 5c+

Follows a big corner on the left, bolted stations but trad on the route, consistent climbing with a couple of fun crux problems on pitch 3. Possible to walk off and descend along the ridgeline at climbers right (45 mins) but not worth it and a bit hairy. Abseil descent recommended, but you will need two ropes or an 80m!

  • P1 5a/5b ~30m; climb either the corner or the face, has some hollow sounding flakes. Sustained and tense for a warm up. Bolted belay inside the corner.
  • P2 5a ~35/40m; Climb out the corner and head up the face bridging every now and then, reaching a big ledge with a bolt and piton.
  • P3 5c+/6a ~35/40m; Starting with a tricky chimney then slab up to the crux. The crux involves a twin cracked chimney above a ledge, which can be reasonably protected (it may have lost some good holds which is why the book grades at 5-). Then ramp up to the final problem a corner hand crack with hollow flakes on the left wall. A big thread at the top.

The name story: When the first recorded ascent by Britich/French climbers in 1987 they found slings in place, that's why they called it Runner-up.

FA: Uknown

1 6a+
2 6b+
3 6a
4 5c+

TL;DR Crazy Camel, 6a+/6b+/6a/5c+

Equipment needed: 12 quickdraws(5-4 long) Descend: 4 abseils same route.

Pitch 1 (6a+):
- 25m - 10 bolts
Pitch 2 (6b+):
- 25m - 9 bolts - Can be split into 2 pitches (15m 6b 5bolts, 10m 6b+ 4bolts) - A station is placed just before the crux move, 40m from the ground - The pitch is consistent in difficulty with a crazy fun, well-protected crux move
Pitch 3 (6a):
- 25m - 9 bolts Amazing pitch, with an aerie feel, with some spaced bolting due to rock quality
Pitch 4 (5c+):
- 25 meters - 9 bolts - A slap cruise to the top
PS:
This route doesn't reach the peak (As we didn't want to get cross runner up the trad route), but if you take 4 cams with you you can traverse 5 meters left from the top station and lead the last 15 meters to the top of Runner up.

Set by andreas.andreou & george andreou

FFA: Ali Hasan & andreas.andreou, 14 Mar 2019

Set by Philippe Brasse

Set by andreas.andreou

Set by Philippe Brasse

Set by andreas.andreou

Set by andreas.andreou

Set by andreas.andreou

2 pitches on the right corner

Set by Tony Haward

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