Showing all 12 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5b | ★★ L'apéritif
1
5b
2
5a
3
4
4
3
5
4
A great climb with a tricky hand/fingers crack and an airy second pitch. The climb twists and turns a lot. Time: About 4 hours up and down. Approach 30 mins to 1 hour from rakabat east entrance. Gear: A full rack.
Descent. Walk off to the opposite side, repel to reach the valley floor where crack in the back is. | 150m, 5 | |||
TD | Alan and his Perverse Frog
face climbing to the left of PPR | ||||
7b | Priez pour Nous
1
6b
2
3
6c
4
5+
5
7b
6
6b
7
6c
6b, 6c, 5+, 7b, 6b, 6c Topo. Between "Perverse Frog" and "The Beauty". FA: Benoit Kempf & C. Berna, 2006 | 6 | |||
6b+ | Purple Pyjama Rum
To the left of "The Beauty". FA: Martin Crocker, Nigel Coe 1998 & Nigle Coe | 2 | |||
6b | ★★★ The Beauty
1
5c
30m
2
6a
25m
3
5c
25m
4
6b
35m
5
5c
20m
6
4a
50m
A mega classic, the first 3 pitches are pure quality with interesting sustained climbing. Pitch 4 can be either direct (6b), or down then up the chimney (5). Needs large cams (camalot 5 or 6) for the upper offwidth pitches, double if you want to feel secure. Bolted Anchors. Upper pitches get sun earlier than lower.
Descent: Rap via the route. FA: Wilfried Colonna & alan baker, 1985 | 190m, 6 | |||
4 | ★★ Crack in the back
A big jaggedy crack of variable width and creative protection. Guide book says it's a f4 but it could feel harder if your not used to the awkward style. Time: 4 hours up and down, if you know where you're going 2 hours. Approach 30 mins to 1 hour from rakabat east entrance. Gear: Full rack.
Descent. Follow the ridge line steeply down generally staying on the right side snaking back and forth. There will be some down climbing and maybe some cairns. Eventually trending more to the right, heading for the canyon crossroad. It is possible to get down without abseiling. | 3 | |||
5 | ★★ Essence of rum
A tough first pitch and an exposed hard to protect but fairly easy 2nd pitch. Approach: From the east entrance to Rakabat canyon just after the under/over boulder scramble up the ramp to the first pitch. About 20-40 mins from rakabat east entrance. Gear: A full rack. Time: Roughly 4 hours up and down.
Decent. Using the tat on the huge blocks head down the other face into the gully. Walk down the gully a bit and find the abseil about midway in it back to the start. | 3 | |||
6b | Little gem
Single pitch corner. Probably harder than the given grade. Anchor on knots in the crack, to be verified. FA: J. Smith & A. Howard, 1992 | 35m | |||
6c+ | Soumises
Start as an older route Odeur de Rhum. Originally an artificial section (A1) in L4, can be free climbed at around 6c+. FA: V. Séger & R. Thivel, 2003 | 280m, 9 | |||
{UIAA} 5+ | Odeur de Rhum
From the left of the pillar to a bolted belay. Extension of this is the route Soumises. FA: W. Colona & B. Domenech, 1994 | ||||
{UIAA} 5+ | Saveur de Rhum
A single pitch trad route. From the right of the pillar to a bolted belay (in common with routes Odeur de Rhum / Soumises). Rock quality not very good, not recommended. FA: W. Colona & B. Domenech, 1994 | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | Rescuer's route
A single pitch route to the right of the routes Little gem and Soumises. Abseil on threads. FA: A. Howard, M. Shaw & D. Taylor, 1994 | 40m |
Showing all 12 routes.