Routes in Wadi Rum for selected grade

#33

#32. Crazy exit.

#35

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

One mega pitch requiring two ropes. Loose rock, expansion bolts in sandstone, scary. The location is approximate, look for bolts.

Spaced bolting ...

Direct line up the water-polished cracks, begin left of "Vanishing Pillar". Descent with 5 rappels.

Fully bolted single pitch. (Sport 1&2 same Anchor) Cat Canyon (29.567250, 35.490739).

Fully bolted single pitch. (Sport 1&2 same Anchor) Cat Canyon (29.567250, 35.490739).

Difficult and long abseil!

Same start as #2 but you go right

Very enjoyable vertical climbing on solid rock following two cracks separated by a short traverse. Easy to protect, but will require micro protection in a couple of spots (otherwise runout). Extend the points on the traverse to decrease rope drag. Top anchor consists of 3 independent cords attached to 3 solid rock columns and come together with a maillon (quick-link). Be aware of the rope when lowering, as it may get stuck in the upper crack. It's recommended to rappel off the route in order to decrease wear on your rope.

An impressive climb with a big feeling. Trad climb with some bolts.

Approach

On the north east corner of Jebel Al Hasani, east from hole to hole.

1. 6a, 45m. Sustained. A line of 3 bolts at the base leading to a shallow corner, finger cracks to a good ledge. Bolted anchor with chain.

2. 5b, 50m. Walk left a few meters to a slab with a bolt. Proceed up broken ledges passing a few more bolts. Ignore giant thread on the right, carry on for another 10m to another tatty thread under big overhang.

3. 5c, 45m. Pull over the lip onto slab with hollow sounding holds with spaced bolts. Bolted chain anchor on the arete. Note this is the descent anchor that takes you down the main east face.

4. 5c+, 30m, 7 bolts. Up the arete to bolted anchor.

5. 5c, 50m, to the right 6 bolts up the crack.

Descent

Rappel back to top of P3 via 2 short repels, then down the main face in 3 longer rappels.