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Bodich

  • Grade context: UK
  • Photos: 5
2
UKT

Summary

Big cliff with few routes climbed that we know of.

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Access issues inherited from Kenya

Access in Kenya ranges from very simple (especially in National Parks and Lukenya) to totally impossible.

Please do not pay to climb (outside of National Parks and Lukenya) as you'll ruin access for everyone else.

If you encounter any access issues, please notify the Mountain Club of Kenya so we can monitor and deal with it: https://www.mck.or.ke/contact

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Ethic inherited from Kenya

If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!

Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

The route is on the South Face of Bodich, also known as Lebendera, on the North bank of the Ewaso Ngir’o river, about 10km East of Archer’s Post. The mountain and cliffs can be seen from the main road. Note: the mountain is in a KDF training area, but this does not seem to be an issue.

To get to Bodich, cross the river bridge heading North into Archer’s Post, then as soon as possible drop off the road to the right and double back on yourself. At a shack marked ‘garage’ turn left, then first right, then left again to pick up a track which generally follows the line of telegraph poles heading East. This eventually leads to a ford [often dry] across a tributary of the main river. Once across the ford, head right [South] on a decent track towards the main river. before reaching it, another track branches off to the left. Follow this, which gradually fades away as you get closer to the mountain. But persevere, as it does exist, and follow it to directly below the crags, which are some 800m away and uphill. Good campsites along the river.

To get to the crag, head straight uphill through bush and rocks. The crag can be climbed on at any time of year. The rock is basement gneiss [I think…], the same as at Lukenia and Tsavo, and is generally sound and clean, although the first two pitches suffer from some bat pooh dribbles…… The route is reasonably protected throughout.

Start at the base of an obvious steep, kinked crack and chimney line in the vertical buttress left of the large slabby walls, and right of a broken ridge.

  1. 40m 4c/5a Follow the crack all the way to a semi-hanging belay where the crack and chimney merge and tilt to the right. Many bats in the chimney to the right.

  2. 45m 5a Up the crack under the roof, and then traverse out right to a vertical crack. This proves to be the back of a huge free-standing flake. Climb the crack [full of bats] and then the flake. Move up and right at the top to a wide shallow groove, climb this, and then back left to belay at blocks on a big ledge.

  3. 50m. Scramble up the ridge to a cleft below a clean rib on the left.

  4. 40m 4c The rib direct, to a belay below a stepped buttress above.

  5. 35m 4a the stepped buttress and then the easier angled continuation ridge behind [easy] to a great belay on an acacia tree on a very pleasant leafy and shady ledge.

  6. 50m 4c Climb the wall on the right, then make an airy step across a deep cleft [the top of a huge chimney] on to the wall behind. Climb this, moving up diagonally left higher up, and then up to belay below the next buttress, which has a gully/chimney on the right.

  7. 50m 4c Climb the dark nose on the left edge of the gully/chimney, then up to a steep crack before moving up right past a tree and then back left. Scramble through gap between large boulders to belay at the back end of a big flat sandy ledge [excellent bivvy site!].

  8. 50m Scramble up across boulders, including an obvious leftwards slanting ledge on the front of a big block, to belay on trees below a cave.

  9. 40m 5a Climb the short wall and fig tree root to the left of the cave, and then up the steep wall behind [fingery and exposed], trending left to belay at the top.

Descent by abseil, mostly down the line of the route. Final abseil [down the line of the first two pitches] is a full 60m with a stretch, and is mostly free hanging.

The Lebendera Rulebook: We broke almost all of these.

  1. There is a vague vehicle track along the North ban of the river. Trust me.

  2. Go straight up to the crag from the river. Don’t try traversing in from the side. [ow, ow, ow, ow, prickly! Is it that time already?] 3. It takes a long time to go up and down. Take your head-torch, and batteries for your GPS so that you can find your way back in the dark, rather than scrabbling through acacia bushes and swearing a lot.

  3. Bats have right of way, are very noisy, and pooh a lot. 5 Take plenty of water.

  4. Don’t go climbing on Natorbe the next day.

  5. There are tons of new routes to do, although some might need bolts [aaaagh!].

FA: Duncan Francis & Lauren Hostetter, 26 Nov 2014

1 18
2 19
3 15

(The name is a reference to the poem the jabber walkie. It involved a long walk through horrible forest with with weapon in tow). We had one foe in mind and then it turn out to be a brilliant adventure. we returned after dark):

Despite several past attempts, no successful ascent had been made of Bodich. A long and prickly approach to the base of a broken corner crack at the right side of vulture-dropping covered wall. Wear long sleeves and trousers made of thick thorn resistant cloth. Take plenty of water, several pangas, and start early.

  1. Start is right of the prominent vegetated gully. Start climb behind huge menhir shaped boulder (scrambbling). Once up behind the boulder climb corner to where a sloping ledge breaks to the lest, ignore this ledge and continue up steepening corner past an old peg (left from a failed attempt in 1970s by Phil Snyder) to a hanging belay consisting of two bolts. Grade: 18 well protected. Large cams are useful.

  2. Climb the bulging wall above via crack (bats inside) and then the left side of the pillar to arrive onto slab like wall above. Continue trending right to gain a smooth ledge with two belay bolts. Grade 19 run out/some poor protection. medium cams and small nuts

  3. Go straight up from the belay to make a commiting move past the overlap and climb the slabby wall. You will find lots of shaped holds and nut placements. Stay right of main corner and head for the small tree. Tree belay. Grade: 15 well protected. Above this tree a steep gully leads to the top.

FA: Alex Fiksman, marnix buonajuti & Maisie Waller, 13 Aug 2013

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