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Routes in Lukenya

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 551 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Main Face
VS Gangplank

The climb traverses in under the large overhang and then up the corner to the left of Bandstand. Sometimes has hornets.

  1. 30m. Up slabs to left-hand end of roof. Big block to belay from.

  2. 15m. Traverse under roof until ledge narrows awkward step right to ledge; with aid from peg gain second stance of Bandstand.

  3. 15m. Step left across corner and up wall on good holds above overhang.

Or HS A1 without going free

FFA: Emmanuel F & Max Weiner

FA: I. F. Howell & I. Sandilands., 1968

Trad 60m
VS 4b Bandstand

A grand old Lukenia classic and a superb introduction to this cliff. At the left end of the cliffs a prominent crack with a rightwards rising ear at 4.5m. Climb crack and step right around ear. Continue easily up to ledge and left-hand fig tree belay. Climb white-coloured wall left of big groove with a tricky step left onto good position on arete, and move up to ledge & belay. Move out rightwards 3m past small nettle tree, and up to horizontal crack. Up directly over this and up wall (crux) above to obvious recess. Traverse left 3m and straight up to top.

FA: Alan Owen

FA: Michael Adams and, 1958

Trad 55m
HVS 5a Drowning in the Shallow End

It has to be admitted that this is a little short on pro, but it is excellent and the few who have led it say provided it is approached with calm and stealth, the need for pro is secondary. Begin 6m right of Bandstand and climb easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. From here up directly to distinct grey ledge at 6m. Awkward move left 1.5m, then up 3m before trending rightwards until directly beneath obvious bulging wall. Straight up bulge (crux), and steep wall above 7.5m to prominent groove. From this point pro is excellent. Climb groove and slightly left to mantleshelf move just below top. Finish up steep wall rightwards on good holds. 2020 edit: It turns out the need for pro wasn't secondary for some - somewhere around 2000 a bolted anchor was added at the grey ledge, with 3 more bolts on the second pitch - the first just above the awkward move left and up and the next two spaced out above.

FA: Iain Allan, Philip Winter & Clive Ward, 1990

Trad 55m
E2 5c The Cruel Sea

A journey to remember! The first pitch is the same as Drowning In The Shallow End, rising easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. Climb 6m to distinct grey ledge. Move up slightly rightwards to bulging dark wall where there is excellent pro in a horizontal slot. Climb holds on right where a tricky move reaches easier ground. Move left to obvious crack and easily up to final overhang and bolt. 1m left of bolt there are holds, so grab the current and use these directly through overhang (crux) to finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen., 1990

Trad 60m
HVS 5a Pier

From the cave belay. From belay move up leftwards to horizontal break and traverse 3m to foot of steep wall. Climb this direct to recess just below overhang. Traverse left 2m to a point below obvious large rightwards pointing flake, and surmount overhang (crux) just right of this. Step left when possible and up to top of cliff.

FA: Michael Adams, Peter Jenkins & Alan Owen, 1958

Trad 30m
HVS 5a Promenade

Start at foot of face to right of main slab in open groove.

  1. 26m. Climb left-hand wall to large nettle tree. At the first bulge traverse right 3m then up.

  2. 40m. Ascend steepening wall to overhang and take this via flake on left or pigeon hole to right.

FA: W. M. Adams, P. Jenkins & A. Owen, 1958

Trad 66m
HVS 5a The Last Voyage of The Titanic

From cave belay move up left to brown streak in groove. Climb this direct to steep brown-coloured wall. Up this with ease to overhang. The overhang is split by a prominent narrow ledge, which is gained from the left. Bolt. Move up trending rightwards to top of the cliff.

FA: Herve & Nathalie Sergeraert, 1990

Trad 25m
HVS 5a The Seventh Wave

One of Lukenia's best with a ripper finish. Step left from belay and straight up wall on right of brown streak passing a good thread belay/flake at 12m. Above is a bulging yellow wall which is surmounted from the left by a tricky mantleshelf move onto a good ledge below steepening wall. Step right and move up on good holds until flakes (bolt on left), until forced out unabashedly rightwards and up to finish.

FA: Iain Allan, Philip Winter & Clive Ward, 1990

Trad 25m
S 4a Arthur's Horror

Immediately right of buttress is a large black slab. Start in the middle of this and climb slab direct to steep wall. Up this to good ledge. This ledge is great for attempting the previous climbs instead of the cave belay. The second pitch works its way up the main ridge of the buttress on easy rock to a large belay block beneath the final wall. Climb up flake and step right to small ledge below overhang. A long traverse continues rightwards (crux) keeping under the overhang until a steep wall covered in jugs allows access to the top of cliff.

FA: Arthur Firmin & Evelyn Baring, 1936

Trad 60m
HVS Hope Floats

Climb first pitch of Arthur's Horror. Start second pitch as far as the traverse right. Just before you climb vertically up towards the exit of Arthurs Horror, you should see a bolt (first of three) at about 2m. Climb directly up past the bolt and slightly left on good hold to reach the second bolt. Continue leftwards toward 3rd bolt, again on good holds. Exit climb slightly left.

Mixed trad 3
E3 6a The Joker

Take Arthur's Horror as far as the big block belay below the final pitch. Take the obvious flake up from here and step right to small ledge. Continue up rightwards to a point below bolt. This route thrillingly makes its way up to the right of the bolt, edges leftwards above and up (fixed peg pro), to awkward moves on final few feet of cliff. You'll love every second!

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1990

Trad 60m
S Colin's Caper

Start halfway between Arthur’s Horror and Dilemma, directly under a long grass ledge at 20m.

  1. 20m. Straight up to grassy ledge and belay.

  2. 30m. Climb the face to the right of the huge flake, moving slightly to the right into a black scoop level with the ledge on Arthur’s Horror.

  3. 25m. Straight up from the scoop to a groove at 15m. Either climb the nose to the right of the groove or the wall to its left, traversing right across the groove to finish.

Trad 75m
S Dilemma

Start at foot of rib to left of crack with nettle tree. Follow rib for 25m, move right to platform. Left-handed to final wall and twin cracks, finish on right of these.

Trad 80m
VD Fanny's Fright

Some 20m left of gully and fig tree is a prominent groove with nettle tree at 3m. Climb groove and buttress on right to platform. Into wide gully. Easy rock to top.

Trad 73m
VD Troika

Start on the wall immediately to the right of the gully and fig tree. Climb wall to good ledge by large detached flake at 30m. Climb groove and crack. Finish up wall.

FA: C. Brown, P. Le Pelley & C. P. V. Walker, 1965

Trad 73m
VD Crow's Nest

Start 15m to right of gully and fig tree in a recess. Up the back wall and exit right onto a rib. Follow a water groove and easiest line to summit.

FA: M.C. Watts, 1973

Trad 73m
VD Snake

Start where detached flake rests against small tree at foot of groove with recess on left at 3m. Ascend groove for 6m and move left onto sloping face to platform and tree. Slightly left to small grassy platform. Right and then left to large recess. Aim for right-hand end of summit boulders to finish.

Trad 75m
VD Diag

Start at foot of Cobblestones. Climb gully and belay at top. Traverse left and climb to last pitch of Arthur’s Horror finishing just right of this.

FA: Iain Allan & C. Wilson, 1968

Trad 120m
VD Cobblestones

Start at foot of buttress bounded by gully on right. Climb to base of crack, then up crack or buttress on right. Ascending traverse right to ledge. Straight up open face to grassy recess. Ascending traverse left to finish.

Trad 67m
VD Tree Route

To the right of the face a slight gully appears. Start a short way up gully on left-hand wall. A broken line leads to a wide grassy ledge which is followed to above eye of gully. Move left and continue to large platform with tree. Left and up to finish.

Trad 72m
S The Spot

To the right of Tree Route is a large white rock under the steeper face. Start between the rock and the next tree on the face.

  1. 30m. Straight up the face, turning on the left the grass ledge at 20m. Up crack and slightly right to good belay under second grass ledge.

  2. 10m. Traverse left over thin holds and then up to obvious knob belay.

  3. 18m. Up leaving flake on left and onto grassy ledge. Tree belay.

  4. 12m. About 4.5m left from tree climb to slight overhang. Take this on left and straight up past small tree to finish.

FA: C. Brown, P. Le Pelley & P. Howick, 1965

Trad 70m
VD The Sword

Start 4.5m to left of overhanging crack.

  1. 15m. Climb up water groove to tree belay.

  2. 12m. Over grass to base of crack. Belay in recess.

  3. 7m. Up crack to finish.

Trad 35m
HS Trapeze

The slanting chimney itself. Climb chimney past chockstones to roof—traverse left on smooth slab to ledge.

FA: M. Harris, B. Forrester & S. Barruso, 1962

Trad 30m
S Scimitar

Start in crack at foot of wall. Climb straight up to platform for 10m. 3m right and straight up overhang to ledge with good flake belay. Move right and straight over final over-hang to finish. .

Trad 22m
S Cave Corner

The easiest line over the cave at the far right hand end of the crags.

Trad 16m
{US} 5.10+ Strugglebus

Perfect hands through a horizontal roof and into an overhanging stem slot – great, awkward movement and a satisfying grunt fest for any crack enthusiasts out there!

FA: Vadim Kuklov, 12 Apr 2017

Trad
VD Playtex

There are various finishes to the traverse of Main Face all of which involve about 210m of climbing. Start along the grassy rake coming in from the right about two thirds of the way up Cobblestones. Cross the face to the large platform on Arthur’s Horror. About V.D. so far. There are now three finishes to the girdle [traverse]. Playtex is the first: Descend groove via tunnel to good stance below old eagle’s nest. Descend an easy crack to ledge. Swing round awkward corner to gain slabs at foot of large cave. Descend slightly along grassy ledge, then up awkward groove and over steep slabs until angle eases and progress can be made to left.

Trad 210m
VS Flying Visit

There are various finishes to the traverse of Main Face all of which involve about 210m of climbing. Start along the grassy rake coming in from the right about two thirds of the way up Cobblestones. Cross the face to the large platform on Arthur’s Horror. About V.D. so far. There are now three finishes to the girdle [traverse]. Flying Visit is the second: Up, and left along obvious traverse line across South End face to nettle trees and stance of Bandstand. Climb across corner and follow lip of overhang till wall steepens then finish above.

FA: M. Hill & P. Jones, 1971

Trad 210m
S Eagle's Nest Traverse

There are various finishes to the traverse of Main Face all of which involve about 210m of climbing. Start along the grassy rake coming in from the right about two thirds of the way up Cobblestones. Cross the face to the large platform on Arthur’s Horror. About V.D. so far. There are now three finishes to the girdle [traverse]. Eagle's Nest Traverse is the third: Climb up to small recess and belay. Traverse across semi-detached flake on left and follow line of weakness across South End. Descend in crack to stance above eagle’s nest. Take wall above stance to finish.

FA: Arthur Firmin

Trad 210m
Edinburgh castle
E1 Gateway

The South face of Edinburgh Castle. Start from the upright flake at foot of the slab.

  1. 27m. Climb to centre of face until shortly before the slab steepens to a wall. Make ascending traverse left to steeply sloping ledge below wall and move left to tree belay.

  2. 38m. Move right from tree onto ledge. After some 10' climb steep wall and rising traverse right into 'pulpit'. Protection pegs in place (as of 1973 TODO check this). From 'pulpit' climb slab above by ascending left wall, move slightly right and up to horizontal crack. With hands in this, traverse left to easier climbing and prominent tree. Up wall to tree and then either ascend wall direct or follow diagonal crack to right to summit.

FA: W. M. Adams & R. Searle, 1960

Trad 55m
E1 5b Waterloo

A delicate exercise in nut placing. This worthy trip takes the left side of the Castle where there is an orange overhang with a steep grey wall above. A 18m doddle up the lower slabs ends at a good belay in horizontal cracks some 5m below the overhang. Up this direct via a slanting flake and the grey wall above is reached by way of a thin vertical crack up on the right. Move up delicately 5m to good pro. Mantelshelf steep wall above and easier ground to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

Trad 43m
E2 5b The Keep

A brilliant climb which takes the main South face of the Castle. Start right of a flake on the ground an 50' of easy climbing leads to a point where the lower slab meets the steepening wall. A long pitch leads up right to the right-hand side of a flake, then up aot a prominent quartz-hole. Traverse diagonally leftwards to an obvious niche, then move right and up a cruzy wall to a horizontal crack (fixed peg pro on right). Move left to wall below bolt and make difficult move up to obvious finishing groove. Easier to top.

FA: Ian Howell & Brian Thomas, 1977

Mixed trad 55m, 3
AU:24 Spicer Spice

This is a variant to the Keep Route. Start up The Keep to the overhang. Traverse right to bolt in overhanging hand traverse. Go up flake to nut runner (crux) and then finish right at abseil ledge.

FA: Richard Sonnerdale, 2002

Trad
E3 5c Traitor's Gate

Probably Lukenia's best. It makes its way up the left side of the left-hand of the two main overhangs, surmounts this then strings together four or five mind-inspiring moves across the wall above. You can look for difficulties in the first pitch but it is easier to simply take 'The Keep' as far as the first belay. A long pitch follows. Move rightwards to the obvious quartz-hole on 'The Keep', then right a few moves and up past a bolt to easier ground below the left-hand overhang. The remainder of the climb is the crux and includes pulling over the overhang past a bolt on the left, up a move, then traverse 5m rightwards across the steep wall above the overhang. Easily to belay.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

Trad 55m
E2 5b Princes Street

Intimidating. For many years it was neglected owing to a reputation for lack of pro. Now it has excellent bolt pro. No harder than 'The Keep' but possibly more variety and atmosphere. The route rises steeply to the vertical wall below the left-hand overhang, traverses rightwards across this then surmounts wall in between overhangs in a marvellous position. The original start began left of the start of 'Committee Wall' and climbed the steep wall leading the the left-hand crack of the Committee Wall flake. This is not too hard but unprotected. Many parties will probably take 'Committee Wall' as far as the belay on top of the flake. From here move up leftwards to a bolt, then up with increasing difficulty to a second bolt. Step down right (crux), then up and continue rightwards to easier ground. Move up to foot of wall between overhangs. Bolt on left. Ascend wall with difficulty and hand-traverse right to ledge. Finish easily.

FA: Iain Allan & Roger Higgins, 1968

Trad 55m
VS 4c Committee Wall
  1. 30m. Start in a slight recess just to left of large fig tree. A prominent flake lies on the face. Climb to good stance on this flake. Traverse right along ledge. Thread runner in a hole at 6m. Continue traversing at this level round the corner and then ascend 9m to reach the "keyhole". Belay peg in place and thread in back of "keyhole".

  2. 20m. Climb upwards out of "keyhole" until level with a series of cracks running out to the left along the overhanging portion of the cliff. Move out along these cracks. Two awkward moves lead to a wide, grassy ledge. Easy climbing to top.

FA: G. Newham & J. Blacker, 1961

Trad 50m
HVS A1 Queensway

To the right of 'Committee Wall' there is a corner with a wide crack. 5m to the right of this is another crack.

  1. 20m. Up this with peg runner at 5m. Continue up to easier ground. Follow crack, which widens, then make hard move up to 'Committee Wall' traverse.

  2. 30m. From the obvious flake to left of 'keyhole' move up left to bolt in place below overhang. With aid from a sling over lip and easy climbing above.

FA: R. Harper & Ian Howell, 1972

Trad 50m
VS 4c Golden Anniversary

The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

FA: Ian Howell & ?, 1982

Trad 46m
VS 4c Committee Wall (Golden Anniversary Start)

Starting up Golden Anniversary, join Committee Wall at the 'keyhole'

Trad 50m
E1 A1 Ramparts

Girdle traverse of Edinburgh Castle.

  1. 15m. Climb Graceful Chimney to tree.

  2. 18m. From tree move horizontally left with increasing difficulty until with the use of aid good holds beneath the 'keyhole' are reached.

  3. 18m. Descend pitch 2 of Committee Wall to flake and belay.

  4. 30m. Ascend 3m above flake, move left and across steep slabs to pegs on Gateway. Climb pitch 2 of Gateway to tree belay.

  5. 20m. Descend left to grassy ledges until vertical crack is reached. Ascend this to top.

FA: Ian Howell & R. Higgins, 1972

Trad 100m
Archway
M South Climb

Start on dark rock 6m to the left of lichenuous slab, a groove with quartz at the foot. Follow groove to finish.

Trad 10m
S Likin

Lies between South Climb and Long Layback. Start in centre of slab and climb direct for 6m then slightly right to top.

FA: P. Le Pelley & N. A. Fumiss, 1959

Trad 20m
D Long Layback

Scramble up crescent shaped gully to tree belay. Using lip of crack for layback, climb to end of crack and final belay.

Trad 28m
M Archway Original

Start on right at point of gully. Simple traverse right leads behind small tree. Climb up moving right then left to the top.

Trad 33m
D Standard Route

Start at base of face below apex of groove 2.5m' to right of tree at ground level. Climb left to overhang at easiest point, surmount this and move up to reasonable rock that leads to finish.

Trad 33m
VD Archway Direct

Start at point of slab directly below tree on overhang, a pigeonhole 1m above ground. Move right-handed to platform, ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish in bushy trees. Abseil from here Two alternate starts may be made: Superdirect and Supersuperdirect.

Trad 20m
S Archway Superdirect

Alternate start to Archway Direct. Start on corner of buttress to right of normal start (point of slab directly below tree on overhang, a pigeonhole 1m above ground). Leads to platform. Finish as for Archway Direct: ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish.

Trad 20m
S Archway Supersuperdirect

Alternate start to Archway Direct. Further round corner to right at narrow crack with fig tree. Climb crack in entirety, including section above ledge. Rejoin route at ledge and finish as for Archway Direct: ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish.

Trad 28m
HVS 5a Subway

Start 5m left of the Tramlines gully below a steep wall with a scoop above. Climb wall for 4m then delicately into scoop, and up to small flake. Stand on this with difficulty (crux), and up to good holds. Continue to ledge. Directly up from ledge to abseil bush. Or step down and right across ledge and ascend wall some 2m right of big slash in cliff.

FA: Barry Cliff, Collette Brown & David Lockwood, 1962

Trad 20m
HS Nasser

Start as for Tramlines. Step across to ledge. The face is taken direct avoiding the vegetated crack on the left.

FA: R. Smith & G. B. Cliff A. M. Waber, 1962

Trad 30m
S Tramlines

Start at foot of large fig tree in gully. Layback to top of flake on right. Traverse left a few feet to ledge at foot of upper gully. From here thin twin cracks up right- hand corner of gully take route out onto face on right which is then climbed direct.

Trad 35m
VS 5a Junction

Start just right of big fig tree on boulder below steep slab. Climb this for a few unprotected moves to a ledge at 9m below small overhang. Bolt below overhang. Move up wall left of bolt (crux), up overhang and easier wall above to finish.

FA: Michael Adams, Ron Searle & Peter Le Pelley, 1960

Trad 30m
HVS 5a Blue Train

About 6m right of Junction there is a chimney crack above the ground. Climb easily up this to the righthand end of the Junction ledge, some 2m right of bolt. Move up right above obvious "pigeon-hole" (crux), then straight up wall above.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988

Trad 25m
VS 5a Boiler Plate

It has been said that one member of the Mountain Club makes the journey to Lukenia once a fortnight solely to do battle with this little beauty, If he succeeds on one safari, the only certainty is that it will defeat him on his next Originally climbed by traversing in from the Junction ledge on the left, parties in recent years have preferred a more direct approach. Start 3m left of Bandana at a "pigeon-hole" about a meter off the ground. Climb wall by "pigeon-hole" and step left at 3m to diagonal crack rising rightwards. Move right and over the overlap at 5m, directly above start. Climb face above moving slightly right to ledge. Mantle shelf up leftwards to ledge below black streak, and climb delicately up slab (crux), on right of bolt to top. Original route was to climb up to shallow cave and the move up rightwards.

FA: Michael Adams & Alan Owen, 1959

Mixed trad 25m, 1
HVS 5a Golden Rivet

This route ascends the steep wall and arete between Boiler Plate and Bandana. Start just left of Bandana where a difficult move leads left to a good hold. Move straight up to where pro can be placed above right end of overlap. Step right and up steep lichen wall to good jug. Mantle shelf. Move up right and ascend wall left of grassy Bandana gully with difficulty.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988

Trad 25m
HS Bandana

About 8m to the right of Boiler Plate there is a steep vegetated crack. Climb through tree then up crack to steep bulge (crux), continue up grass to top.

FA: Iain Allan & H. Smith, 1968

Trad 23m
E2 5c Matatu

The ultimate finger-tingler! Start 3m right of Bandana, Climb thin crack to obvious "pigeon-hole" at 4m. Move up bulge above on good holds, then two hard moves lead out rightwards across wall and up to easier ground.

FA: Pete O' Sullivan, Ron Corkhill & Andrew Wielochowski, 1981

Trad 20m
E2 6a Hit and Run

The steep corner some 6m right of Matatu. Five fierce moves up thin crackline past bolt on right, leads to blank wall. Cruxy move right then easier step left below small roof. Over roof on good holds and to top.

FA: Iain Allan, 1988

Trad 16m
VS 4b Freeway

A short way up the gully right of Hit and Run there is an obvious scoop near the ground. Up to this, then harder move out of scoop, and straight up to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988

Trad 16m
Egyptian
VD Cleopatra

Start in the middle of left-hand buttress of crag at a crack surmounted by a double overhang and pointed boulder on skyline. Follow crack to overhang, pull up and move to final boulder which is taken direct.

Trad 16m
VD Nefertiti

A straight line between Cleopatra and Ammon, turning the overhang on the right and keeping out of the trees.

FA: R. A. Cooper, P. Le Pelley & C. Brown, 1960

Trad 20m
D Ammon

Start at the right-hand corner of buttress. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. Step across gully to corner on right and follow corner to top.

Trad 20m
S Rameses

Start just to the left of Osiris and aim for a small bush on the skyline directly above.

FA: M. C. Watts, 1973

Trad 20m
S Osiris

Start where there is a prominent small cave 2m above the ground. Climb into this, pull out of it and climb onto wall above some 1-1.5m left of fig tree root. Continue to top.

Trad 20m
D Isis

Start a few feet left of the cave in Osiris. Traverse right above cave to foot of fig tree root, cross this and climb to right of root and finish over boulders.

Trad 23m
VS Ashenhaten

To the right of Isis is a deep crack starting some 2.5m up. A hard start just to the left, then straight up.

FA: J. Temple & M. C. Watts, 1973

Trad 22m
{SA} 22 Ulf Carlsson Memorial Route

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharoah's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

Mixed trad 20m, 3
VD Pharaoh's Wall

In the middle of the face is a grassy platform at 4.5m. Start in corner to left below this and climb to platform, then to detached pinnacle on left. Step across gully and move left onto wall. Climb left-handed to end of curving overhang. Pull up to finish on ledge.

Trad 22m
S Papyrus

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. From left-hand side of platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

From the lefthand side of the platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

FA: A. Owen & F. Richardson, 1961

Trad 22m
VD Anthony

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. Climb to platform and then the difficult-looking wall behind to ledge for belay. Move right along ledge and climb short, strenuous crack on corner. Over boulder to finish on summit.

Trad 25m
D Vulture's Nest

Start below right hand end of platform, where a fig tree affords an easy route to the platform. Ascend corner on left of gully to ledge and belay. Move left along ledge to small tree beside which an easy route will be found leading to the top. An alternative route to the platform can be made (9m, VS). Start directly below the second pitch on a wall with small holds. Ascend 3m, traverse 3m left, continue left-handed to good holds on the corner. (A. Owen; 1961)

Trad 25m
D Ptolemy

Start as for Vulture's Nest to platform. Climb onto corner on right. Awkward step on point of corner leads to easy rock and direct to top.

Trad 26m
S Scarab

Lies between Ptolemy and Sweet Fanny Adams on the buttress just to the left of the chimney. Climb to the pigeon-hole where an awkward move leads to a ledge at 7.5m. From ledge climb directly up or cross chimney to block on right and then up.

FA: W. M. Adams, 1961

Trad 23m
HVS 5a Death of Disco

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

FA: Clive Ward & Philip Winter, 1989

Trad 25m
E1 5b Chips Funga

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail which can take questionable gear. Powerful moves left across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

Trad 25m
VS Sweet Fanny Adams

Start on the corner to left of fig tree. Hard start leading to small block at 3m; from here direct to belay. Move left-handed across face on exposed rock with good holds to summit.

FA: W. M. Adams, 1958

Trad 22m
VS Sphynx

The climb goes up the chimney immediately to the right of Sweet Fanny Adams. Back up the chimney facing right for 9m when a runner may be placed in the crack. Continue direct up the crack until the ledge can be reached. Traverse right 4.5m and ascend wall above on small holds.

FA: G. B. Cliff & R. Smith, 1960

Trad 20m
S Dog's Dinner

Start 7.5m to the right of Sphynx on the corner. Up fault as far as possible then traverse right to corner. Climb direct to hole. From here onto ledge immediately above and take final pitch above. Follow fault for 4.5m then traverse and up corner to top.

FA: R. Smith, 1961

Trad 20m
{SA} 29 Unknown - That Hard Egyptian Arrete

Fully bolted. Start on slab below first bolt. Move straight up to anchors. Grade subject to debate. Name and FA unknown

Sport
{SA} 20 Unknown - The Last Egyptian

One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, next to bolted route to the left. Finish at anchors. Grade subject to debate. Name and FA unknown.

Mixed trad 1
Cave Crag
S Chimney Sweep

At the top of the left branch of the gully is a cleft with a small bush at its base. Climb cleft to point of overhang, move onto right wall where easy climbing leads to the top.

FA: F. Richardson, A. Owen & W. M. Adams

Trad 13m
E1 Eve

Start 2m left of Jericho Wall. Climb directly to horizontal crack above the start. Finger traverse right until the pigeon hole is reached. Move left-handed across slab to finish.

FA: R.A. Bennett, 1959

Trad 13m
E1 Jericho Wall

Start well up left hand gully from point of small boulder below a tiny fig tree in a pigeon hole on the wall at 4.5m. Step on to wall and climb to horizontal crack. Hand traverse right and mantleshelf onto small ledge. At right hand edge climb groove to platform and top. Abseil off the tree just below the top.

FA: W.M. Adams, 1959

Trad 16m
VS Amen Corner

Start just left of the foot of the buttress round the corner from the cave. Climb up the wall into a scoop. Two hard moves up the scoop bring a short hand traverse within reach. Move right and then straight up groove on corner. An alternative start may be made by traversing in from the left to avoid the scoop.

FA: R. A. Bennett & F. Richardson, 1959

Trad 17m
HVS 5b Gaza

To the left of Cave Crack is a prominent pillar. Start at the bottom and climb up on the corner/pillar. Below the bolt you can place a few runners. Crux around the bolt (which can be a bit tricky to clip). Continue past bolt and easily to top.

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Iain Allan

Trad 20m
VS Cave Crack

Climb slab on right in cave to platform below overhang. At point of cave and overhang is a steep shelf leading diagonally left and up. Hand traverse along this and into the crack then onto the left face. From here easier rock leads to finish on wide ledge with belay.

FA: R. Caulkwell, 1954

Trad 20m
D The Villa

Start 9m to the right of the cave, where there is a semidetached piece of rock. Step from slab to point of semi-detached piece of rock. Traverse left and ascend steep wall directly to ledge with belay. Finish directly up groove behind belay. An alternative finish may be made by moving right from the belay ledge, up a small wall and over final boulder.

Trad 17m
Eagle's Nest
5c AU:20 Striptease

A genuine "sport-climb" at Lukenia! Start left of the root coming down from Eagle's Nest Crack and climb the crack in the front of the boulder past a bulge to the platform below Epitaph. Move right onto wall and climb direct past three bolts. At the third bolt step left (crux), then continue direct to top.

FA: Herve Sergeraert, Pierre Yves Gibello & Nathalie Sergeraert, 1990

Mixed trad 30m, 3
VS Eagle's Nest Crack

Start 2m to the right of fig tree root.

  1. 27m. Climb bulge, moving right to root-filled crack. Move along crack to second fig tree (runner). Cross eye of crack to face below block and pull up over block on good holds to platform.

  2. 9m. Ascend wall behind in the centre.

FA: Caukwell, Ker & Jenkins, 1954

Trad 37m
E2 6a Exhibition Wall

Right up there with the best. Climb the face 3m right of Eagle's Nest Crack and over a slight bulge to the root. Move up to scoop, step left, up to bolt. Climb up rightwards (crux), to horizontal crack then left to vertical crack and follow this to top.

FA: Andrew Wielochowski & Mark Savage, 1981

Trad 25m
E3 5c Anglepoise

The obvious crack below and leading to the large block at the end of the traverse on Eagle’s Nest Crack. Aid from one peg on the traverse into the crack low down.

FA: R. Baillie, R. Pillinger & T. Phillips, 1954

Trad 25m
E3 6a Savage Waltz

Best climbed when cliff is in the shade. Start 30' right of Anglepoise just left of a prominent boulder on the ground. Climb bulge and layback crack to a small tree. Swing right and layback (crux) to a niche. Follow horizontal crack right to easier ground.

FA: John Fantini, 1979

Trad 22m
E1 5b AU:19 Pig's Ear

A veritable corker! Start from boulder just right of Savage Waltz. Pull up bulge on good jugs and continue to glassy wall below "ear"(a peg with a split eye is on left). Up this wall (crux) to crack and layback strenuously rightwards to jugs and ledge. Easily to top.

FA: Rusty Baillie & John Winning, 1964

Trad 22m
HS 4b Thin Wall (original)

Start in crack behind clump of trees where there is a thick grey tree root.

  1. 12m. Climb crack 4m and move right onto wall and to platform. Move left across crack to wall with good holds and climb into sentry box. Belay to column on right.

  2. 17m. Ascend back of sentry box until a prominent crack, slightly right is reached. Climb this and move left-handed across wall leading to small bush. 4.5m leads to boulder for belay. Alternate finish by traversing left from top of back of sentry box to fig tree.

FA: R. Caukwell, P. Campbell & Heeroma, 1954

Trad 30m
S Thin Wall (Gable Finish)

Start as for Thin Wall Original.

  1. 12m. Climb crack. Move right onto wall and to platform and block belay.

  2. 10m.. Climb slightly right-handed to left point of the Baboon Traverse overhang. From here to tree on left at foot of sentry-box.

  3. 10m. Climb sentry-box direct to finish over slab at top. Belay to boulder some way back.

FA: Jenkins & Wilson, 1956

Trad 33m
S Baboon Traverse

Start as for Thin Wall Original. A traverse line.

  1. 12m. Climb crack. Move right onto wall and to platform and block belay.

  2. 17m. Traverse right-handed below overhang where, at 8m a flake runner may be found. 9m further on, below line of traverse, is a large semi-detached block with fig tree for belay.

  3. 14m. Rejoin line of traverse and then to foot of tree growing out of overhang, climb down across corner to large fig tree for final belay.

FA: P. Campbell & Ker, 1956

Trad 43m
E2 6a Owl Crack

This climb was originally climbed as an aid route by Barry Cliff and John Hull in 1963, and it then lay dormant until Henry Barber climbed it free in 1978. The first moves off the ground and the daring sequence across the final roof were the crux sections of the route. In 1989, without realising it had been climbed free, Herve Sergeraert did the route adding a more direct (but easier) way between the initial difficulties and the finishing roof which has become known as the "Paradise Variation''. During this ascent Herve placed a bolt on the roof, which Barber had originally led with nuts. The route is best done incorporating the Paradise Variation, but if it belongs to anyone it must surely be Barber. Start about 9m right of Thin Wall where there is an obvious edge. Three very hard moves up an overhanging wall then step left to the foot of crack. Climb up right along crack and shallow corner to Baboon Ledge. Traverse 3m right to big groove below the roof. Up groove then right (bolt), across wall. Join the pillar and climb the slab on its right.

FA: Barry Cliff & John Hull, 1963

FFA: Henry Barber, 1978

Trad 28m
VS Hangover

Start 2m to left of roots of fig tree at right-hand end of Eagle’s Nest Face. Small crack with tiny fig tree in it leads to ledge on left. Move left to point of corner. Strenuous move leads to corner which is climbed direct to foot of tree under overhang. Ascend overhang direct and finish over easy slab.

FA: W. M. Adams & A. Owen, 1958

Trad 17m
HS 4a Plunge

Start on tree to right of Hangover. Ascend wall and up to obvious cracked overhang. Climb this directly and exit on left. Up easily to belay on top of slab.

FA: M. Harris & R.D. Metcalfe, 1967

Trad 16m
The Cemetery
VD Coffin

Start in gully left of slab at foot of grey tree root. Climb to platform, move up right-handed to poor stance and belay at 35'. Traverse left across face to good holds and ascend wall until under point of boulder on left. Pull up on jugs to finish.

Trad 17m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 551 routes.