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Egyptian

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Description

One of the best crags in Lukenya. Beware of hornets and bees on some of the climbs (Papyrus and Pharoah's wall especially).

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

Park at picnic tree then walk along the base of the cliffs to the left (facing the hill) until you get to the crag. You'll see a bolted route at the right side of the crag. Egyptian Crag lies about 200 meters left of the South Picnic Tree at the foot of the hill beyond Archway Crag.

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Descent notes

Walk down to either sides of the cliff, or rig a temporary abseil on a tree.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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History

View historical timeline

As per guidebook: The obvious vertical crack between Scarab and Sweet Fanny Adams has only been climbed as far as the hanging block on the right on account of a bees' nest just above.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start in the middle of left-hand buttress of crag at a crack surmounted by a double overhang and pointed boulder on skyline. Follow crack to overhang, pull up and move to final boulder which is taken direct.

A straight line between Cleopatra and Ammon, turning the overhang on the right and keeping out of the trees.

FA: R. A. Cooper, P. Le Pelley & C. Brown, 1960

Start at the right-hand corner of buttress. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. Step across gully to corner on right and follow corner to top.

Start just to the left of Osiris and aim for a small bush on the skyline directly above.

FA: M. C. Watts, 1973

Start where there is a prominent small cave 2m above the ground. Climb into this, pull out of it and climb onto wall above some 1-1.5m left of fig tree root. Continue to top.

Start a few feet left of the cave in Osiris. Traverse right above cave to foot of fig tree root, cross this and climb to right of root and finish over boulders.

To the right of Isis is a deep crack starting some 2.5m up. A hard start just to the left, then straight up.

FA: J. Temple & M. C. Watts, 1973

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharoah's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

In the middle of the face is a grassy platform at 4.5m. Start in corner to left below this and climb to platform, then to detached pinnacle on left. Step across gully and move left onto wall. Climb left-handed to end of curving overhang. Pull up to finish on ledge.

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. From left-hand side of platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

From the lefthand side of the platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

FA: A. Owen & F. Richardson, 1961

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. Climb to platform and then the difficult-looking wall behind to ledge for belay. Move right along ledge and climb short, strenuous crack on corner. Over boulder to finish on summit.

Start below right hand end of platform, where a fig tree affords an easy route to the platform. Ascend corner on left of gully to ledge and belay. Move left along ledge to small tree beside which an easy route will be found leading to the top. An alternative route to the platform can be made (9m, VS). Start directly below the second pitch on a wall with small holds. Ascend 3m, traverse 3m left, continue left-handed to good holds on the corner. (A. Owen; 1961)

Start as for Vulture's Nest to platform. Climb onto corner on right. Awkward step on point of corner leads to easy rock and direct to top.

Lies between Ptolemy and Sweet Fanny Adams on the buttress just to the left of the chimney. Climb to the pigeon-hole where an awkward move leads to a ledge at 7.5m. From ledge climb directly up or cross chimney to block on right and then up.

FA: W. M. Adams, 1961

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

FA: Clive Ward & Philip Winter, 1989

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail which can take questionable gear. Powerful moves left across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

Start on the corner to left of fig tree. Hard start leading to small block at 3m; from here direct to belay. Move left-handed across face on exposed rock with good holds to summit.

FA: W. M. Adams, 1958

The climb goes up the chimney immediately to the right of Sweet Fanny Adams. Back up the chimney facing right for 9m when a runner may be placed in the crack. Continue direct up the crack until the ledge can be reached. Traverse right 4.5m and ascend wall above on small holds.

FA: G. B. Cliff & R. Smith, 1960

Start 7.5m to the right of Sphynx on the corner. Up fault as far as possible then traverse right to corner. Climb direct to hole. From here onto ledge immediately above and take final pitch above. Follow fault for 4.5m then traverse and up corner to top.

FA: R. Smith, 1961

Fully bolted. Start on slab below first bolt. Move straight up to anchors. Grade subject to debate. Name and FA unknown

One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, next to bolted route to the left. Finish at anchors. Grade subject to debate. Name and FA unknown.

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