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Summit Cliffs

  • Grade context: UK
5

Description

These are the cliffs to the right of the Castle

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

The obvious chimney to the right of Edinburgh Castle with a large tree in its lower part.

  1. 15m. Up chimney, move right past chockstone to belay at tree.

  2. 20m. Move left-handed through bushes and climb blocks 6m to foot of groove, ascend 15m to top.

Start in right hand chimney. Climb chimney as far as first tree and move right on slab to belay.

Start from belay at top of Graceless Chimney, and walk left 6m to base of dark crack. Ascend this.

Alternate HS start: Nice 15 m pitch of crack climbing between Graceful and Graceless Chimney. Second pitch the same.

To right of open, rough, bush-filled gully, a small slab underneath a large boulder. Start to left of pointed rock lying against foot of slab.

  1. 15m. Climb to belay on platform.

  2. 10m. Move 6m right along ledge to awkward chimney leading to top. Alternate start. 15m. (Diff). Start 6m to right where there is a grassy ledge a few feet up. As for (2) to finish.

Immediately to the right of Diamond Slab is a steep wall. Start in centre of wall.

  1. 12m. Climb to obvious flake and then right handed to platform and flake belay.

  2. 6m. Ascend wall behind belay to platform then take small crack up wall on left to finish.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

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