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The Prow

  • Grade context: UK
5
UKT

Description

At the same level as Summit Cliffs, capped by an overhang with a prominent tree and having an undercut base this crag offers several routes.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at the far left-hand end of the crag facing the gully on rising ground. Step right then up the arete.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

5m left of Leaper, behind tree. Slightly right and straight up a slight depression.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

Start about halfway along the face where a sharp pointed flake stands away from the face. From the tip of the flake step onto the face and directly up to the left of a shallow ‘V’ groove.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

Start in orange corner to right of Leaper, below obvious thin crack leading up to left.

  1. 15m. Five aid moves up crack lead to tension traverse left onto good holds on the arete. Up wall above to ledge, then move right to cave and belay.

  2. 15m. Move left to skyline ‘nose’, up corner then swing left onto arete. Easy climbing to summit.

FA: Iain Allan & B. Thomas, 1973

At the right hand end of the face at a flat boulder. High step to gain the edge of the undercut wall, traverse left and up to belay at foot of the chimney. Finish as for Velindra or via chimneys.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

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