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Chimney Buttress

  • Grade context: UK

Description

Immediately above Black Slab and in line with Edinburgh Castle is Chimney Buttress. It is best approached by going up the right-hand gully past Black Slab and crossing the top of Black Slab left-handed to the buttress. The whole buttress seems riddled with chimneys and is quite entertaining. The chimney climbing is about Difficult in standard. Much of the original exploration was done by Peter Campbell.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

The prominent crack in the east side of the buttress seen clearly from the road.

FA: M. Harris, 1966

Start at crack in north side of crag. Up crack to prominent notch. Either take route into buttress or move left-handed to reach outside of buttress and over easy rock to top.

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