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Cave Crag

  • Grade context: UK
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 6

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Description

Between Archway and Egyptian Crags a grassy gully leads into the hillside. Some 50m up this on the left is Cave Crag. A rough, little-climbed crag with a deep cave to the left.

Recommended routes: Jericho Wall—X.S

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

Park at picnic tree then walk along the base of the cliffs to the left (facing the hill) until you get to the gully just before Egyptian crag. Cave crag is just above Egyptian crag. Just bash through the gully to reach it. If you continue up this gully, you'll get to Cemetary wall and Eagle's nest crag.

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Descent notes

Walk down to the climber's right of the cliff to get back into the gully.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

At the top of the left branch of the gully is a cleft with a small bush at its base. Climb cleft to point of overhang, move onto right wall where easy climbing leads to the top.

FA: F. Richardson, A. Owen & W. M. Adams

Start 2m left of Jericho Wall. Climb directly to horizontal crack above the start. Finger traverse right until the pigeon hole is reached. Move left-handed across slab to finish.

FA: R.A. Bennett, 1959

Start well up left hand gully from point of small boulder below a tiny fig tree in a pigeon hole on the wall at 4.5m. Step on to wall and climb to horizontal crack. Hand traverse right and mantleshelf onto small ledge. At right hand edge climb groove to platform and top. Abseil off the tree just below the top.

FA: W.M. Adams, 1959

Start just left of the foot of the buttress round the corner from the cave. Climb up the wall into a scoop. Two hard moves up the scoop bring a short hand traverse within reach. Move right and then straight up groove on corner. An alternative start may be made by traversing in from the left to avoid the scoop.

FA: R. A. Bennett & F. Richardson, 1959

To the left of Cave Crack is a prominent pillar. Start at the bottom and climb up on the corner/pillar. Below the bolt you can place a few runners. Crux around the bolt (which can be a bit tricky to clip). Continue past bolt and easily to top.

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Iain Allan

Climb slab on right in cave to platform below overhang. At point of cave and overhang is a steep shelf leading diagonally left and up. Hand traverse along this and into the crack then onto the left face. From here easier rock leads to finish on wide ledge with belay.

FA: R. Caulkwell, 1954

Start 9m to the right of the cave, where there is a semidetached piece of rock. Step from slab to point of semi-detached piece of rock. Traverse left and ascend steep wall directly to ledge with belay. Finish directly up groove behind belay. An alternative finish may be made by moving right from the belay ledge, up a small wall and over final boulder.

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