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Morning Wall

  • Grade context: UK

Description

About 150m half-left from the South Picnic Tree and on the right-hand side of Archway Crag is a large open red corner with its top blocked by an overhanging boulder.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

On left-hand nose. Climb wall direct and move right below boulder to finish.

Ascend crack. Traverse left under overhang, turn back right at point of overhang to finish.

Same start as for Capstone A, but alternative finish (Very Severe) is to traverse right at the top of the crack.

Start below the blunt arete. Climb this and then surmount roof by an area of white rock.

FA: Pete O'Sullivan & Ron Corkhill, 1981

Climb the face between Millstone and Capstone.

Worth the effort if you’re already wasting your time on Morning Wall.

FA: Crushy McCrush Face, 5 Dec 2013

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