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Fig Tree

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 9

Seasonality

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Description

This crag lies about 150m. behind the South Picnic Tree and bars the head of the wide grassy gully. The climbing is steep and good and the rock excellent. The crag is made up of three faces; Fig Tree face is the first with the boundaries as follows:

Fig Tree Face — on the left is a large fig tree and behind it Fig Tree Gully forming the left boundary. The right boundary is the break in the wall forming a line from the summit fig tree to the right-hand end of the overhang at the base of the crag.

Fig Tree Boulder — this is the dark slab below Fig Tree Face where a branch of the fig tree loops over the rock.

Cakewalk Face — this lies directly to the right of Fig Tree Face.

Recommended routes: Turret Wall—D. Le Pelley’s Variation—S. Governor’s Traverse—V.D.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

Park at picnic tree. This crag lies about 150 yd. behind the Picnic Tree and bars the head of the wide grassy gully. You can walk straight to it.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start about 2m to left of fig tree roots on grey buttress. Climb up to go over left-hand end of pear-shaped overhanging block and finish up grassy groove in wall above. An alternate start may be made round corner to left, using tree growing horizontally out of wall.

Start between Turret Wall and Syrup of Figs. A thin crack leads to an easy traverse rightwards for 6m. Prominent cracks then take one up to easier rock above.

Start on ledge at right of fig tree.

  1. 9m. Climb white streak 2m right from beginning of ledge. Moving left follow up to large recess and belay.

  2. 9m. Climb out of recess on left wall and directly up to finish on sand coloured tower to right of small bush in horizontal crack.

FA: W. M. Adams & A. Owen, 1958

Start on ledge at right of fig tree roots.

  1. 10m. Move right along ledge to end and up crack to small scoop. Climb up on easy rock left to large recess and belay.

  2. 13m. Move off right across face.

Start at left of detached block.

  1. 10m. 3m above ground a hand traverse leads left across wall. From this climb directly into groove and then to overhang with thread belay.

  2. 15m. Climb overhang direct and straight on to finish.

FA: R.Caulkwell, 1954

Start as for Fig Tree Wall.

  1. 10m. Climb up to stand on ledge used for hand traverse. From right-hand corner of ledge across groove to right (peg runner) and climb up wall moving right on series of small flakes to good stance below overhang.

  2. 15m. Continue over overhang and up, moving slightly left-handed to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Start in centre of face to the right of the hand traverse. Follow crack to meet Le Pelley’s Variation and climb the 4m wall. Move left along the large ledge to the vertical crack dividing the overhang above. Climb crack and continue vertically to top.

FA: R.Searle, 1959

Start at left end of overhang.

  1. 15m. Tier of steep rocks leads to traverse under overhang to left up to point of large semi-detached boulder. Ascend wall to fig tree and move right 4m to base of crack and belay.

  2. 10m. Ascend crack and face to foot of chimney with small tree.

  3. 5m. Climb up chimney on right in final block to belay at fig tree.

FA: R. Le Pelley, 1949

Start as for Le Pelley's Variation and climb the first 15m of this route to the foot of the crack. Now traverse 4m further right to where an obvious leftwards-rising diedre is reached. Climb the wall immediately on left of diedre, which is very hard at the start but gradually becomes easier until a position is reached below the prominent orange-coloured roof. Climb roof direct some 4m right of the chimney at the end of Le Pelley's Variation.

FA: Iain Allan & Mark Savage, 1978

At the right-hand end of the large overhang there is a vertical crack on the wall above. One peg gains the crack which then goes free. Move left and up to top.

FA: R. Baillie, 1964

Start up Fig Tree Original. Traverse along line of quartz, moving right-handed along obvious traverse line. Continue across whole face ending at top of first pitch of Cakewalk. Rather harder for the second at the crux.

Start up Fig Tree Original to 2/3 up second pitch. Start traversing right-handed across face aiming to go underneath big overhang in middle of face. Series of delicate moves leads to corner below overhang which is crossed. Continue at this level to end of crag.

A peg route along the overhang, using one bolt. Start at right end and finish up Le Pelley’s.

FA: R. Baillie, 1964

Another climb may be reached by going well up Fig Tree Gully. On the right is a black wall. Start at point of rock 2m up on right-hand end of wall. Move left across face and finish straight up.

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