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Bee Buttress

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 6
5

Seasonality

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Description

Bee Buttress is to the right of Boulder Face. There are then five more climbs before Jacob’s Ladder Face. There might be bees or wasps in the big cave on the left

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

Park at picnic tree, then walk to Boulder crag, follow this cliff to the right.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Small detached buttress between cleft with fig tree on left and overhang with bees’ nest on right. Start on slab which leads to steep broken wall, which is followed to top.

Start 5m to the left of Theft at a sapling. Avoid the sapling and climb the wall. Traverse left when possible and up the corner to finish.

FA: W. M. Adams, A. Bennett & P. Le Pelley, 1960

Start 3m left of Theft at small "V" shaped holds. Climb about 4m on small holds then move slightly left (crux), reaching crack. Up overhang and easy to finish.

FA: Magnus Karlsen, Nico Michaelides & Jay Bienen, 1989

Start on top of pile of boulders to right of tree. Climb wall directly into groove, ascend this and final wall.

FA: W. M. Adams & R. Caulkwell, 1958

Start 6m to the right of Theft under the middle of the overhang. Step onto the wall and traverse left beneath the overhang to the corner. Climb the corner, move up and slightly right over easier rock to a smooth wall which is climbed direct to finish over an overhang.

FA: W. M. Adams, R. Searle, R. Caukwell & F. Richardson

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