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Square Crag

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 6
7

Seasonality

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Description

A small crag some 50 yds. behind the top of Jacob’s Ladder. It is lichen-covered on the right with a prominent overhang on the left. Approached by walking up from South Picnic Tree below Cakewalk Face, then right-handed to crag.

Recommended routes: Hypotenuse—S. Vertical—H.S

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

Park at picnic tree then either climb up Boulder Crag and walk slightly to your right (facing the hill) or walk up the gully to Cakewalk Face, then right-handed to Square Crag.

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Descent notes

Walk off.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Follow a line about 3m to the left of the Standard Route. Ascend wall to point of overhang. Climb overhang direct to tree belay.

FA: R. Richardson & P. Le Pelley, 1959

Start at foot of slab below hole with thin crack above. From hole move slightly right to ledge at foot of steep wall. Traverse left to easier rock and then back right-handed to large platform with thread runner under overhang. Step out right round corner boulder onto face passing just to left of fig tree to finish.

At very foot of slab some 1m to right of hole ascend smooth slab to ledge and take black wall behind directly to platform. Thread runner. Take overhang direct, above runner, to finish at small fig tree.

Start on right behind fig tree at base of groove. Climb groove to below small overhang. Move slightly right and onto the face. Slightly left and pull up to small ledge. From here easier rock leads just to right of fig tree to finish.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Start 3m to left of chimney on north face of crag in small overhanging corner with pile of boulders. Step down 1m to left and traverse left around corner for about 3m. Climb wall direct to top.

FA: R. Richardson, P. Le Pelley, R. A. Bennett & W.M. Adams, 1959

Start as for Right Angle. Climb crack to small ledge. Ascend face and move out left-handed to belay on summit boulder.

The chimney on the north face of the crag.

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