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Forgotten Face

  • Grade context: UK
8

Description

Perhaps no other cliff at Lukenia is mine deserving of being forgotten as this one. One old aid route has however, been climbed free and warrants mention. To the right of Jacob’s Ladder Face and slightly higher. This appears very vegetated from the South Picnic Tree but on moving closer its right side is found to be clean with a large overhang.

Recommended route: Slipway—HVS 5a

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

Park at picnic tree, then head to the right of Jacob’s Ladder Face and slightly higher.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Right at the left-hand end of the crag there is a crack with a tree growing at the top and a grey root at the foot. Climb crack to ledge. Follow groove above to grassy slabs and up to tree.

FA: Iain Allan, H. Smith, A. Walker & C. Wilson, 1967

Start at a detached corner of rock at the right hand end of the long overhang. Climb corner for 5m onto large ledge. Climb wall above keeping to right of thin crack to terrace. Finish over wall above.

FA: Iain Allan, D. Metcalfe & C. Wilson, 1967

Start on slab to right of Easy Street. Climb slab until it steepens. Follow up and step left to ledge. Climb bulging wall above by crack, then easy rock to top.

FA: R. Higgins & Iain Allan, 1967

Start as for Split. Climb slab keeping on right, until wall steepens. Follow wall up to tree. Move back over grass terrace and take overhang above bush.

FA: Iain Allan, I. Bennet, H. Smith, C. Wilson & A. Walker, 1967

On the left side of this cliff, and slightly lower than the other part is a slab leading to an obvious corner capped by a roof. Easily up slab to corner which is reached by climbing an initial bulge (crux). Move up to where a hand-traverse leads leftwards to finish.

FA: Martin Harris & Dick Metcalfe, 1967

At right-hand end of overhang where obvious crack with small fig tree leads to what appears to be good block holds. Peg up into niche.

FA: M. Harris & S. Barrusso, 1967

Just to the right of Xtre where the overhang peters out. Step over bulge on good holds. Crux is steep wall above exiting right to grassy ledge and finishing by tree.

FA: M. Harris, D. Metcalfe & S. Barrusso, 1967

Start beneath quartz band in orange wall at right- hand end of face. Climb small holds for 6m and use peg for aid to reach point of rock at end of quartz. Go up to right keeping under overhang (peg) to tree. Take crack above to finish.

FA: Iain Allan & R. Higgins, 1967

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