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Sentry Box

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 11
16

Seasonality

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Description

This is best approached from the South Picnic Tree and can be seen a quarter right blocking the skyline, with a large boulder on top. Walk up passing Cakewalk Face and right-handed above Square Crag. The main part, being the right-hand face, provides good long climbs and the off-shooting slab on the left a variety of short slab and wall climbs. - Sparsely protected Recommended routes: Sand Wall—S. Boomslang—V.D

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

Park at picnic tree, then walk up passing Cakewalk Face and right-handed above Square Crag. You can also access this cliff from the campsite but it's easy to get lost.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at right-hand point of dark wall with scoops above, where there is a large semi-detached flake. Climb flake, move out slightly right and directly up to finish to right of boulders.

Start 6m to the right of Flake Route at left-hand joint of rough pile of boulders, a black wall. Thin start leads to flake at 2.5m, take wall direct.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Walk up ledge between wall and pile of boulders to top of boulders. Tricky start leads to easy rock; straight up to finish. Tree belay.

Start at the right-hand corner of boulders on the ground. Climb to platform and continue on same finish as Pinion - take wall direct, moving slightly left-handed.

Continue along ledge from Thin Start, crossing small dip and up to top of another pile of boulders. Take wall direct, moving slightly left-handed.

Start between two large piles of boulders at short wall with projecting boulder in middle. Climb to left of boulder for 3m to platform. From platform climb to wall and move away right-handed to finish.

Start in centre of right-hand pile of boulders. Ascend sandy wall, on which all holds face the wrong way, to platform - 8m. On to wall behind and up slightly right-handed - 30m

Start by big fig tree between Agag's Slab and Sand Wall . Up to niche and slightly right, then traverse left across steep wall, using some doubtful flakes. Up to top.

FA: John Temple & Alan Walker, 1974

Start at fig tree some 3m from face. Climb directly to middle of steep sand-coloured wall. Surmount wall to detached boulder. Up and left to summit boulder to finish.

Start directly below small fig tree under overhang.

  1. 18m. Climb towards fig tree. Move left across slab to take overhang via spike of rock 2.5m left of tree. Climb wall above moving slightly left-handed to convenient stance beneath grey part of wall.

  2. 10m. Climb behind belay and move out left-handed passing small bush and to ledge, then right-handed to finish. The overhang may be taken direct in which case it is Severe.

Start as for Orchid Ledge, directly below small fig tree under overhang.

  1. 17m. Climb towards fig tree. Move left across slab to take overhang via spike of rock 2.5m left of tree. Move back across wall right-handed and directly to foot of steep sand-coloured wall. Belay.

  2. 6m. Climb wall to wide cave below overhang.

  3. 6m. Move out right-handed to climb point of overhang, then back left-handed to final belay on boulder.

Start as for Orchid Ledge, directly below small fig tree under overhang.

  1. 15m. Ascending traverse left-handed to black water groove. Take wall on good holds. Ascending traverse right-handed to fig tree in groove for belay.

  2. 9m. Move right across face to sentry box with belay.

  3. 14m. Out of sentry box right-handed almost to point of fault where rock steepens. Swing back left- handed following line of fault and up to finish.

Start below right-hand end of overhang from pile of boulders behind tree.

  1. 14m. Climb to point of overhang then slightly left- handed and directly up wall to belay in sentry box.

  2. 14m. Move out on right and then move left-handed to wall above, which is taken direct, on to slabs to finish.

Start below left-hand end of scimitar-shaped overhang under small recessed ledge. (1) 60'. Straight up to flake at left end of overhang—take this on the left and climb onto detached block. (2) 30'. Traverse a few feet left from top of block to left end of steep lichenous wall. Climb this to finish.

FA: T. Spence & M. Lynch, 1970

Start below right-hand end of scimitar-shaped overhang.

  1. 19m. Climb up to the overhang about 2m left of the point. Surmount the overhang to pleasant easy climbing to the detached block stance of Agrippa.

  2. 9m. As for Agrippa. Traverse a few feet left from top of block to left end of steep lichenous wall. Climb this to finish.

FA: M. C. Watts & P. Fox, 1973

Start at end of large boulder. Fallen from scimitar-shaped overhang. Ascend directly to grassy ledge, then right-handed across slab to deep crack in which there is a bollard. Climb directly above into scoop and ascend wall direct.

FA: Jenkins, Hull & Adams, 1958

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