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Gumshoe

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 2

Seasonality

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Description

Lies well behind Sentry Box Crag and is best approached by walking up the gully leading to the left-hand point of Sentry Box, which brings one out on an open piece of level ground. 200 yards half right a grassy lichen-covered face, the right-hand end of which overhangs while the left end tapers down to a gentle slab. Steep climbing on small holds.

Alternatively bestt reached from the Mountain Club campsite on top, from where it it about a three minute walk. An ideal crag for intrepid campers or for those recovering from an inebriated evening barbecue.

Recommended routes: The Accidental Tourist — E1 5a Humpty Dumpty—S.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

The crag well behind Sentry Box Crag and is best approached by walking up the gully leading to the left-hand point of Sentry Box, which brings one out on an open piece of level ground, then go 200 yards to your right. But best approached from the campsite.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start 7.5m to left of left-hand black streak. Direct ascent of wall.

Start 1m to left of left-hand black streak. Follow slight groove and move out left-handed at steepest point. Belay to fig tree in grassy rake.

Start at groove exactly halfway between two black streaks. Follow groove until wall becomes thin; move out left to reach end of grass rake.

Start 1m to left of right-hand black streak. Climb black streak the whole way.

Start behind clump of bushes between watersplash and right-hand black streak of pair. Climb 4.5m to ledge. Left along ledge to broken rock just to right of pigeonhole. Above pigeon hole right-handed, then straight to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Start as for Allegro. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. At right- hand end ascend wall direct to finish.

Start 3m to left of watersplash at tall tree against face with, above, pockmarked waterline running to left of small grassy ledge at 12m. Follow water-mark to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Follows the water steak shown in the diagram. Start beside tree then move left to water streak and follow to top.

FA: W. M. Adams & F. Richardson, 1959

Start between wide watersplash with tree at foot and croton tree on right, directly behind boulder. Follow groove to skyline and top.

Last climb before corner. Start behind croton tree, follow groove over “steps” higher up.

Start in corner with fig tree at left-hand end of overhang. Climb right-hand wall of corner 1-2m away from tree and out of eye of corner then slightly left-handed to finish.

Originally climbed in order to show a visiting continental party that small wires can fake you a long way, and bolts are not always necessary. Ironically the Hot Rock team didn't know this had been climbed on wires and accidentally bolted it. It is important to climb this route the correct way and not cheat leftwards only the Finis jugs. Because of this some might say it's a little forced, but this does not detract from the experience. The climb Finis ascends the jug-covered wall 1-2m right of the main corner. This superb route climbs the steep face some 3m right of corner. Start from ledge system some 4.5m up from base of cliff. Some 4m right of corner there are two obvious scoops and the climb starts between them. Up on small holds 6m to prominent overlap. Step right and climb direct to welcoming jug. Straight up on better holds to top.

FA: Karlsen

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus, 1990

An absolute blaster and intimidating to boot. Start 8m right of Finis corner, where the wall begins to overhang. A bolt can be seen at 6m. Up rightwards to bolt. Cruxy step up left of bolt then right to small niche. Straight up to steep but easier finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1990

To the right of The Moronic Inferno. Crux between the forth and fifth bolts.

FA: R. Heap & K. Ounsire, 1999

This used to be an aid route called Soliloquy. In an incredible piece of climbing, Herve Sergeraert slowly whittled down the aid, and finally led it completely free. Many bolts and pegs were used on the original aid ascent, and since these still remain, the route is essentially "sport climb". However, beware some of the pegs as they a rusty and mobile. It used to be probably the most difficult route at Lukenya, although now it has been surpassed by a handful of other lines in Nemesis, Egyptian Crag and Gumshoe itself. In the centre of the main overhang is an obvious groove and crack beginning at 40'. Start 10' right of the groove and climb with dignity. The second half has lichens, making the on sight more rewarding...

FFA: Herve Sergeraert

FA: P. Snyder, 1971

Not in either guidebook - from Alex Anderson website? Maybe in a bulletin

At the right-hand end of the overhang at a small slabby buttress. Take a vertical line, step right at a thin spot on the wall, then back left. Finish upper slabs slightly right-handed (crux).

FA: D. Karinga & P. Snyder, 1970

A deep crack to the right of Yankeekuyu leads to a ledge at 6m. Directly behind a small tree a short wall leads to a second ledge (crux). Finish up a layback flake.

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