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Sugar Loaf

  • Grade context: UK
6

Description

From the North Picnic Tree half left, Upper Cliffs forms the skyline cliff, showing a dark chimney at the right-hand end. From South Picnic Tree the crag shows as a large crag on the right-hand skyline. On the left-hand side, separated from the main cliff by a large gully is Sugar Loaf., a square, lichenous rock with a prominent central gully.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

From the North Picnic Tree half left, Upper Cliffs forms the skyline cliff, showing a dark chimney at the right-hand end.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at left-hand end of face at bushy gully. Climb buttress on right beside gully.

Start immediately on left of central gully. Climb straight up.

Start immediately on right on central gully. Climb straight up to wide ledge, move in towards gully, then straight up to finish.

Start 20m to the right of Treacle at corner. Climb to loose flakes and then to wide ledge of Treacle, for the same finish.

At right-hand corner of face a wedge has fallen away to form a groove at back of platform. Start from platform. Climb groove to point, move left onto small ledge and straight up to wide ledge. Above, thin brown- grey wall leads to finish and small tree for belay a few feet away.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Start at right-hand end of platform in Demerara. Vague groove leads right across wall. Ascending traverse along groove until possible to go straight up aiming for little tree at top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

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