Routes as trad in Sugar Loaf

Start at right-hand end of platform in Demerara. Vague groove leads right across wall. Ascending traverse along groove until possible to go straight up aiming for little tree at top.

Start 20m to the right of Treacle at corner. Climb to loose flakes and then to wide ledge of Treacle, for the same finish.

At right-hand corner of face a wedge has fallen away to form a groove at back of platform. Start from platform. Climb groove to point, move left onto small ledge and straight up to wide ledge. Above, thin brown- grey wall leads to finish and small tree for belay a few feet away.

Start immediately on left of central gully. Climb straight up.

Start immediately on right on central gully. Climb straight up to wide ledge, move in towards gully, then straight up to finish.

Start at left-hand end of face at bushy gully. Climb buttress on right beside gully.