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Agama Wall

  • Grade context: UK
3
UKT

Description

This area (with Upper Cliffs) has seen much activity during recent years (at time of writing 1991 guidebook) and it is easily reached in about a ten minute hike from the Picnic Tree if the following trail is taken. A sleep path rises left of Lower Cliffs for about 20m then traverses rightwards along the top of Lower Cliffs for approximately 150m before rising directly to the left-hand end of Upper Cliffs below the obvious crackline of The Lizard. Agama Wall is the small, but not insignificant cliff up on the left capped by a large orange overhang. There are three routes on Agama Wall.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

Park at picnic tree, then a ten minute hike. A sleep path rises left of Lower Cliffs for about 60 feet then traverses rightwards along the top of Lower Cliffs for approximately 150 yards before rising directly to the left-hand end of Upper Cliffs below the obvious crackline of The Lizard. Agama Wall is the cliff on the left with an overhand on the top. An alternative option is to climb something on Main Wall, then walk left along good paths to the cliff.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

At left-hand end of crag there is a nettle plant growing about 2m up the cliff. Start 2m right of this, where hard moves lead up slightly left, then a hard move right to a jug. The route then continues straight up keeping about 1m right of the edge, to a horizontal crack. Step left then difficult move up to better holds. Follow arete to good belay tree.

FA: Iain Allan & Nico Michaelides, 1999

Start 2m left of obvious demarcation between lichen and dark rock. Start on small holds leading to scoops. Direct line continues to horizontal crack at approx. 7.5m (pro), then continues on easier ground to belay.

FA: Magnus Karlsen, Clive Ward & Iain Allan, 1989

Start 1m right of the demarcation line of lichen and dark rock, where the gully begins to rise. An obvious red-coloured hold is some 4m above the ground. Straight up on thin holds to easier ground at 6m. Continue to top.

FA: Iain Allan, Clive Ward & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

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Activity

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