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Sword Cliff

  • Grade context: UK

Description

Clive Ward spotted Sword Cliff on his way up to Main Wall and suggested we have a look. It is very inconspicuous from distance and can be easily reached via the road from the school to the gate onto MCK land.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

The crux move is quite near the ground and on English grades this route would get a VS and not an HVS because of this. A possible diversion on the way to Main Wall. Start at the foot of the two parallel crack lines running vertically up the cliff. Initially, an awkward move up the left crack to gain a block and a slight recess above. Continue up steep but somewhat easier ground between the two cracks (the "tramlines") straight to the top.

FA: C.W. Rechman, 2000

Where you enter the crag from the bottom, and about 6m to the right of Perfect Tramlines, where there is a gentler slope with good holds higher up. On reaching the good holds, traverse left to below a steep section with some good jugs on it to the top.

FA: T.W. Mbatia (Ms.) & C.W. Rechman, 2000

Start as for Two Into One Does Go but instead of the traverse left proceed directly up the crag on the easier ground.

FA: T.W. Mbatia (Ms.) & C.W. Rechman, 2000

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