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Baboon Cliff

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 29

Seasonality

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Description

Small yellow coloured crag right of Nemesis. With a massive rebolting and new route effort by visiting American climbers this is now the best beginner sport crag in Lukenya and one of the most accessible sport crags in the country. In general the routes are short and featured and offer excellent opportunities for fledgling leaders to learn the ropes and clip some bolts. The increased traffic should keep the baboons (and thus the baboon poop) away!

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

Hike as for Nemesis but cut right off the trail 30 feet from the cliff.

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Descent notes

The left side routes have hook anchors - just clip in as for quickdraws and lower off these. Those on the right side have two-bolt anchors with maillons - when cleaning lower off these but watch out for rope kinking. Whenever toproping make your own anchor - do not toprope off the hooks or maillons, as this will wear through the hardware over time.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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History

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Originally 4 bolted routes were installed by Ia Westman and Asa Forsman. Those routes were chopped by an unknown party. In January 2020 the original routes were rebolted/repaired and 7 more sport routes were added. The old routes have 3 bolts, the modern ones have 4 or 5.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

First climbed in a downpour sporting a beautiful rainbow over the Athi Plains. lt lies on the buttress to the right of Nemesis Crag; a long, very yellow cliff that gets gradually steeper from left to right. Start the climb on the left hand side where a slab leads up to a long, deep horizontal crack. Follow the crack line right for a few metres until you are underneath a fig tree. Then make a move up out the crack onto the face and onto the top (natural pro).

FA: B. Lyons & M. Buonajuti, 2001

The first sport route on the left. Begin up an easy slab to steeper terrain. Somewhat runout.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. Currently (1/25/20) no anchor but it's possible to traverse right to an anchor.

FA: Ia Westman & Asa Forsman

The second bolted route. Begin up a tricky slab to great holds. Through an easy slab to a short steep section and a lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

FA: Emilia Smith, Luke Mendola & Kris Fiore, 13 Jan

Start under the obvious scoop of rock with a high first bolt. Continuous and fun with some runouts.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is also a new lower-off anchor.

FA: Ia Westman & Asa Forsman

A quick mantle leads to an easy slab and a perfect steep upper section just left of the tree. Lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 13 Jan

Just left of where the middle vegetation starts. Similar to the last climb, mantle to an easy slab and finish up on steep holds, ending to the right of the tree. Lower-off anchor.

FA: Luke Mendola, Emi Smith, Kris Fiore & Emilia Smith, 13 Jan

A Steep romp up perfect jugs to a lower-off anchor.

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 14 Jan

A difficult start that can be avoided if traversing from the right. From here, work up easier terrain to a stance below the face. A final tricky section lies in wait at the top!

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 14 Jan

One of the original lines, rebolted in 2020.

A few variations possible, but hardest and most interesting is straight up a thinner start under the first bolt.

FA: Asa Forsman & Ia Westman

One of the original lines. Work up to a first bolt through one of a few variations to start. Hardest and most interesting variation is to go direct up the slab (4c is for this direct variation).

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is a new bolted anchor.

FA: Asa Forsman & Ia Westman

Sure to be a classic. Work up the easy slab to good holds. From here swim up perfect jugs through the steep upper section to a two-bolt anchor.

FA: Luke Mendola & Kris Fiore, 14 Jan

Start up a tricky slab to a stance before tackling a few more hard moves to reach the third bolt. From here, romp up better holds on steeper terrain to the anchor.

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 14 Jan

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