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Left end

  • Grade context: UK
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 7

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Description

Left side of the Main Wall

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Access issues inherited from Hell's Gate

The cliffs are located within the National Park, you need to pay entrance and abide by park rules.

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Ethic inherited from Hell's Gate

No bolting unless you're doing a new route (then please check with the MCK that it is a new route beforehand).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

About 30 m left of 'The Big Corner' there is a prominent roof curving up rightwards from the ground. Further left is a similar feature. Start just right of this point.

  1. 30 m Climb up 6 m then traverse right across wall (peg runner) for 9 m and step right into corner and ledge beneath groove. Climb groove (1 aid nut), to crack and ascend blocks to good belay.

  2. 43 m Move up 3 m then traverse right for 12 m to projecting ledge. Using this swing rightwards to corner with steep wall above. Climb wall direct to broken rock and belay.

  3. 24 m Move up right for a few feet then back left across lip of overhang to corner (peg runner). Move left onto loose wall (1 aid peg), then straight up to finish. Seriousness: 4

FA: Paul Braithwaite, Doug Scott & Iain Allan, 1976

About 30 m left of 'Juggernaut' there is an obvious pale-coloured corner which starts about 30 m up the face. Start below here at a small recess.

  1. 31 m Move up 3 m then traverse right to blocks. Up these making slightly leftwards to prominent finger of rock pointing at the ground. Move up right of rock-finger (peg runner), and climb to cracks and big ledge on top of block. Traverse left 6 m to a groove. Up this and climb bulge above. Now move up leftwards to a belay on arete beneath big corner. Peg belays.

  2. 31 m Move up 5 m to overhang. Climb this and move up slab above to start of groove (peg runner). Traverse left into corner and up this to make a difficult exit left at the top onto a ledge.

  3. 38 m Step right off ledge and pass obvious flake. Continue right and up diagonal crack (2 aid nuts). Move into recess at the top. Up broken rock to top. Seriousness: 4

FA: Robin Harper & Ian Howell, 1975

Start about 40' left of 'Future Shock' at a wall with lots of holds.

  1. 38 m Ascend wall and bear right to groove which leads to overhang. Up groove and surmount overhang. Climb slab above until good crack appears on left. Move right across steep wall into a groove and up to belay ledge.

  2. 24 m Move up left to pointed flake. Up flake then traverse left onto slab and groove. Up groove to bulge. Surmount this, swing left and up to overhang. Traverse left to corner and up broken rock to belay under large overhanging corner.

  3. 16 m Traverse right, then up over bulges (1 aid nut and 1 aid peg), to good ledge. Move right then back left to ledge at foot of steep crack.

  4. 22 m Up crack moving right at top and continue up crack system to finish Seriousness: 3

FFA: Robin Harper & Iain Allan, 1977

Start between 'Future Shock' and 'Juggernaut'.

  1. 37 m Rising traverse leftwards leads to a difficult move into a sharp 'V' groove. Up groove 2 m then straight up (3 aid moves), and continue to good stance on right.

  2. 24 m Traverse left across steep wall to small ledge. Continue left under overhang. Surmount overhangs leftwards with aid. Move left into groove then up to belay below large overhanging corner.

  3. 12 m Straight up overhanging corner on aid to good belay below final pitch.

  4. 37 m Move to last pitch of 'Future Shock' and finish by way of this. (The belays on this route are all shared with 'Juggernaut’. The first part of Pitch 2 is reversing the final section of the first pitch of 'Juggernaut') Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

Some 9 m left of 'Exterminator' there is a fairly obvious grey pillar/column with a crack splitting it. The pillar leans up rightwards from the foot of the cliff and is where the route begins. Chipped arrow and 'FS' marks start.

  1. 34 m Up crack to ledge at top of pillar. Climb wall a few feet then move left (peg runner), round a corner and mantleshelf up to another ledge. Move up slightly right then left along a ledge beneath an overhang. From left end of this sloping ledge lower 1.5 m off a peg to gain corner and belay.

  2. 30 m Up steep slabs to right of wall (2 aid pegs), then swing left to ledge. Step left then straight up to overhanging crack. Climb crack (3 aid pegs), and step right and up to belay.

  3. 37 m Move up right to block then up left to broken shell-like rock. Move left over this to foot of steep crack. Climb this and move right and up to belay ledge.

  4. 21 m Easily up broken rock to top. (This route joins 'Juggernaut' at the foot of the steep crack on Pitch 3). Seriousness: 3

FA: Iain Allan & Mark Savage, 1972

Start 9 m left of 'Exterminator'.

  1. 12 m Move up wall 5 m then traverse left to crack on right side of prominent column. Ascend crack to good ledge right of column.

  2. 15 m Move right 3 m to thin crack then follow this to bulge. Climb over bulge (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut) to good belay ledge on right.

  3. 18 m Climb thin crack directly above belay on aid nuts and two pegs. The thin crack ends in a groove which is climbed free to belay. (This is the same belay as the one at the end of Pitch 2 of Exterminator).

  4. 18 m Follow Pitch 3 of 'Exterminator' to its belay. At this point 'Exterminator' traverses off leftwards. Instead of doing this continue up the steepening corner (1 aid nut), until a move can be made onto a ledge on the right. Move up to good belay ledge. 5 37 m Straight above belay to obvious finish. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

About five metres right of the original start, directly below the belay of Pitch 3 (original) there is an overhang at 4 metres. Up a slight undercut, then step right and back left under overhang which is taken from the left. Up into groove and continue directly to the belay of the original Pitch 3.

At this point the original Pitch 3 and 4 can be linked, thus producing a sustained two pitch adventure.

FA: Alex Fiksman, 20 Sep 2014

Start 9 m left of 'Magician' where an obvious Wall leads up leftwards.

  1. 24 m Easily up wall for 9 m then traverse left to ledge below obvious groove. Climb groove to a small stance at 9 m. Nut belay.

  2. 24 m Continue up groove to roof then step left onto ledge below steep slab. Move up slab to the right into wide crack. Up crack then back across top of slab to belay. Nut belay.

  3. 9 m Climb corner and bulge to ledge above. Peg belay.

  4. 35 m Traverse left to arete. Up arete 3 m then take obvious traverse left to broken rock.

  5. 12 m Up this to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Chris Watts & Mark Savage, 1972

FFA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1976

Start 5 m left of 'Magician'. The first belay on this route is shared with 'Magician'.

  1. 25 m Easily up broken rock to cracked overhang, with a large block stuck underneath.Up this block to steep thin crack above. Up this to ledge. Move up right (1 aid peg), to stance below tree.

  2. 30 m Move up leftwards to traverse line leading left to thin crack. Up crack and round roof above (4 aid nuts), to obvious open groove. Up groove (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut), to ledges up on left.

  3. 30 m Move to large pale corner and ascend 5 m until a traverse line right can be taken. Move down right (peg runner), and round arete into a groove. Up groove (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut), to ledges up on right.

  4. 40 m Climb up steep corner. A peg in a hole on the left wall makes it possible to move leftwards to arete and ledges. Move up leftwards then trend right to top. Seriousness: 4

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

Start below the prominent grey-rooted tree and slightly right.

  1. 22 m Up easily for 9 m (peg runner), then left and up to overhang. Climb overhang by way of a steep square-cut groove (1 aid nut and 1 aid thread). Up groove a few feet to a belay below and to the left of tree.

  2. 27 m Up right through tree to slab. Up slab moving right into groove and up to good ledges on right. Step back left and up twin cracks to a belay on sloping ledge on right. Nut belay.

  3. 30 m Step down left then traverse round corner into niche. Traverse left round next corner then up broken rock to overhangs, (peg runner). Move left a few feet to foot of large pale corner. Up this 20' to reach first peg. Up to good ledge on left (2 aid moves). Follow this to arete and belay round corner.

  4. 43 m Up 6 m then left across steep wall to ledges. Round corner then up to obvious corner. Follow this to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

This section of the Left End has many routes on it and the best way of locating starts is to look for the prominent grey-rooted tree growing some 21 m up 'Magician'. This route starts 6 m right of 'Magician' where an easy buttress leads up to an overhang at 15 m.

  1. 38 m Up easy buttress to steep crack. Up this and round roof on aid, (mostly nuts). Free climbing follows up groove above to roof. Round this (1 aid peg), and up to belay on ledge. Peg belay.

  2. 18 m Traverse right a few feet to large perched block above. Up this and follow crack to more perched blocks. Step left and up to belays. Peg belay.

  3. 31 m Traverse right across groove to a bulge. Up this into groove (peg runner), and up groove to overhang. Move right onto ledge on arete. Up to flake and belay.

  4. 18 m Up to peg above. Using this move left with difficulty and climb up to wide crack, (peg runner). Traverse left across slab and up to belay at poor stance. Peg belay

  5. 25 m Move up to overhang, move left and up move left then back right to top. Seriousness: 5

FA: Ian Howell & Robin Harper, 1972

The Left End of Main Wall, crossing with Capital Punishment for a section of the white corner.

  1. Go up easier ground to where the rock becomes less featured, then traverse on small holds to reach a splitter finger crack going up. Anchor here.

  2. Go up the crack to a hanging belay in the corner.

  3. Break out left from the belay under a roof to the belay anchors.

Rappel 55 m from here (tie two ropes) or continue up on bad rock to top out.

FA: Alex Fiksman, Bobby Model, Or, Vadim Kuklov, climbingfish, Hamish, Or freed by, Sam Mwangi & Michele Leone, 2002

To the left of the 'Caiaphas' section of the Left End there is a prominent overhanging area with a steep slab beneath it. Splitting the overhang is an obvious white corner with a large flake jutting from it. The route goes up the slab then follows this corner. Start 24 m left of Caiaphas.

  1. 37 m Move up left to steep crack. Up this then swing left to ledge. Step left to another ledge. Move up right then back left to groove. Ascend groove to sloping ledge beneath slab, (peg runner on slab). Traverse left a few feet along grassy ledge to the start of thin crack. Climb this (5 aid pegs), to belay below foot of big corner.

  2. 24 m Up left to foot of corner. Up this past flakes to overhang. Step right past bolt and round to ledge. Step right to corner. Up this to good ledge and belays. (8 aid nuts, 6 aid pegs and 1 bolt were used on this pitch).

  3. Move up right to ledge. Step right around corner and up to thin crack. Climb up (peg runner), then traverse left 3 m to better rock. Up past tree to top. Seriousness: 5

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1976

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Start 12 m left of 'Caiaphas'. Ascend twin cracks for 3 m then swing left to sloping ledge. Traverse left 3 m to corner with loose flake. Up this then swing left to good ledge. Move up to crack and up this moving left under bulge at top. Up groove to broken rock and belay. 'Caiaphas' can be joined by traversing up rightwards. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1972

In the middle of this broken area of the Left End there is a short steep layback crack rising from the ground for 5 m. This is the start of the route. A chipped arrow and 'C1' mark the start.

  1. 38 m Up thin crack, step right across wall and pull up onto ledge. Up right then back left to groove and swing round detached block. Up to bulge (peg runner beneath bulge). Strenuously over bulge and up crack to small ledge. Move up 3 m and take traverse line leading left. Move round into corner and pull up onto ledge behind shrub. Climb up to good belay in recess. Peg belay in place.

  2. 24 m Climb round left wall and easily up 9 m to obvious steep crack. Up this 30' then move right to belay in chimney.

  3. 33 m Traverse left along ledges to cave. Up left wall of cave to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Iain Allan & Mark Savage, 1972

Between 'Caiaphas' and 'The Amazing Journey' there is a steep groove at 18 m splitting the overhang. This route climbs this feature. Start 6 m left of 'The Amazing Journey' at a groove leading up to a grey column on the right.

  1. 25 m Climb groove and step right to ledge. Up wide crack on left of grey column for 6 m then step right beneath bulge. Climb bulge

  2. (1 aid peg), then up left, round arete and traverse 2 m to ledge. Move up to foot of steep groove/chute splitting overhangs. Belay on sloping ledge.

  3. 15 m Chimney up until it is possible to step right to ledges (1 aid peg). Move right a few feet then up to broken ground. Move up right to belay on grassy ledge.

  4. 18 m Up over blocks on right to wide crack at back of pedestal. Climb this and traverse left over broken blocks to main terrace and belay.

  5. 15 m Move easily to steep wall with a thin crack on the left and another on the right. Climb right crack straight up to flake on right. Traverse right across this flake and up to belay.

  6. 37 m Move up rightwards to final wall. Climb this at obvious break, moving left when possible. Up to short brown wall which is taken direct to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Mark Savage & Iain Allan, 1976

This route begins approximately 91 m left of the prominent overhanging area. It is easy to find for at this particular section the wall is less steep with a broken area some 46 m up from the ground. The route starts 12 m right of 'Caiaphas' where a prominent crack begins at 3 m.

  1. 30 m Up to crack which leads to ledges on left. Move up towards bulge but take the obvious traverse line leading off right below it. Continue along traverse for 12 m to an arete. Tension around this (peg in place), then step right and up to small ledge with good belay.

  2. 6 m Move right then up to obvious ledge.

  3. 30 m Move up slightly then traverse left 9 m to large grassy ledge. Gain groove up on right by way of a short steep wall, and climb groove for 12 m and step right to belay under wide crack.

  4. 18 m Climb crack for 6 m then step along sloping shelf. Descend 3 m onto large ledge with tree.

  5. 37 m Along ledge to crack. Up this moving slightly right at top. Then step left and up to ledge. Move easily right and finish up left. Seriousness: 2

FA: Iain Allan, John Cheesmond & Alan Walker, 1975

This route is a spectacular traverse across the lip of the large grey-streaked overhanging area left of 'Dog-Leg'. Above the overhang there is a prominent steep brown wall. The climb is a right to left traverse under this wall. Walk round to the top of the Left End (allow twenty minutes), and the descent point to the start of the traverse is 15 m left (directions facing cliff) of where the Left End rises to the Central Wall.

  1. 25 m Descend a fairly easy gully down the right side of the brown wall to a good belay point at the start of the traverse. Peg belays.

  2. 18 m Traverse left along lip to a belay 1 edge at grass patch.

  3. 24 m Continue traversing and move round corner to start of ramp system leading downwards. Descend ramp then move onto another ramp which leads to edge of overhang. From lowest point step left onto block and up wall above to good belay in vultures nest.

  4. 15 m Traverse left 6 m then up and right to belay below gully.

  5. 25 m Finish by way of ramp on left of gully. A selection of pegs (mostly thin blades and small angles) should be carried for protection purposes on Pitch 3. There are few natural runner placements on this pitch.

This route can be joined from the last pitch of ‘Gimme Shelter’. Seriousness: 5

FA: Iain Allan & Brian Thomas, 1975

This route starts about 30 m left of 'Dogsbody', to the right of the obvious big grey-streaked overhanging area. A small pedestal marks the start.

  1. 24 m From top of pedestal ascend crack for 15 m then step right onto slab. Up 3 m to overhang and move rightwards (peg runners), across slab and around corner to niche. Peg relay.

  2. 24 m Move left off ledge and up groove to block. Swing left onto ledge round corner, then traverse leftwards across sloping ledges for 3 m. Up wall to good horizontal crack, and move up leftwards (or rightwards) to belay on sloping ledge.

  3. 23 m Up and over bulge (1 aid peg), and up to crack above. Traverse right 20' to wide crack splitting large block. Climb crack and relay above.

  4. 30 m Traverse right along obvious line and make move round a corner. Ascend rib and move right into niche. Up wall to good ledge. Peg belay.

  5. 37 m Up finishing gully moving rightwards at top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Phil Snyder & Iain Allan, 1972

Start a few feet to the left of 'Dog-Leg' to the left of a tree growing at the foot of the wall. Above is a short corner with a slab at the top.

  1. 21 m Climb the corner and the slab to a crack above. Up this to a ledge below the crack steepening.

  2. 15 m Continue up the crack to a ledge below an overhang.

  3. 15 m Move left from the belay to gain twin cracks. Climb these and the continuation of the left crack, which bends round to the left; this leads to a series of ledges.

  4. 22 m Move easily left along ledges for about 70 until they end in vegetation. Belay.

  5. 25 m Up 30' (peg runner), move right to gain an earthy ledge. Swing left to a nest at the foot of the left groove. Climb this,(peg runner), then move right to finish pitch on ledge beneath gully.

  6. 37 m Up gully to top. This route joins and finishes up 'Gimme Shelter' half way up Pitch 5. Seriousness: 3

FA: Tony & Barbara Charlton, 1975

Approximately 91 metres left of the Gold Rush Buttress there is a large grassy dog-leg formation, which leads up rightwards for about 15 m then back leftwards to the top. This particular area does not lend itself to easy route descriptions as the ground is so broken. There are ways of ascending the Dog-Leg where the standard rarely lies above Very Difficult, but few parties ever take the same way. It is unnecessary to describe a route in detail. Care should be taken as the rock is dubious in places and it should not be considered as a fast way down from the top of the Main Wall. Seriousness: 2

FA: R Caukwell, A Rowe, H C Pereira & P Campbell, 1952

Start left of the Gold Rush Buttress below the right-hand point of 'Dog-Leg'. There is an obvious large terrace some 80' up the cliff at this point and the first pitch rises to this terrace from the right.

  1. 25 m Move easily up past blocks then trend left and up to a place where a slab on the left can be reached. Up slab to terrace. Peg belay.

  2. 22 m Walk to the right end of terrace to foot of steep crack. Ascend crack, making a move right at 5 m, then back into crack and up (peg runner), to poor stance on sloping ledge. Peg belays.

  3. 18 m Move up slightly right then traverse right 3 m. Now move up leftwards to wall with good holds which leads to large ledge. Peg belays.

  4. 21 m Move to right end of ledge then climb up behind pillar to its top. Ascend thin crack above pillar over a small overhang (3 aid pegs), then step left to hanging stance.

  5. 43 m Move up rightwards to foot of fault which rises diagonally leftwards. Enter fault by way of steep wall on left, then follow to top. Seriousness: 5

FA: Mark Savage & Joanne Burger, 1975

Begin in the recess immediately left of the Gold Rush Buttress.

  1. 34 m Mount the blocks with an awkward step to the left. Gain good ledge. Ascend poor rock to small ledge. Peg belays.

  2. 18 m The broken groove is climbed with difficulty, then move left (1 aid move), to poor holds. Up these to start of good crack and small ledge belay.

  3. 15 m Climb the twin cracks to below roofs (2 aid moves), to a hanging belay in right crack.

  4. 15 m Move up to roof then work horizontally left (mainly aid), around corner and down slightly to small eyrie and belay.

  5. 16 m Move up (1 aid nut) with difficulty and slightly left to groove. Up groove to belay on right.

  6. 46 m Work left (1 aid move), over awkward step then left to corner. Up this with difficulty and join the final section of 'Time Slip'. Seriousness: 5

FA: John Temple & Ian Howell, 1976

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