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Ndarua Stadium

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Summary

Great crag with short walk-in, lots of routes over 20 meters in the HS and over range.

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Description

This crag is on private land. You have to pay a fee of KES 200 per visit per person (not per day) to climb there - please do not pay more or less.

You have to call prior to your visit. Please contact the Mountain Club of Kenya for information on accessing the crag.

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Access issues

Access to this crag has been negotiated by the MCK. Please ensure continued access by strictly sticking to the rules required to access the crag. Pay exactly KES200 per visit per person. Respect the locals and promptly alert the MCK if there's any issues.

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Approach

5 minutes walk from carpark/camping

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Where to stay

Camping right next to the crag (around here under big trees: https://goo.gl/maps/k85kaoJNutGhKrtw5). It can get windy. There are no facilities at all.

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Ethic inherited from Kenya

If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!

Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf

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History

View historical timeline

The crag was found by Andrew Gremley in 2019. Access was negotiated by MCK (Emmanuel F, Remigio Crespo and Michel Gass).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the slab/cracks to steep moves stepping right, get to the ledge under an overhang. Walk left and climb the cracks on blocks that look like they're going to collapse. Then straight up the avoidable crack on your right.

FA: Emmanuel F & climbingfish, 27 Jul 2019

Scramble up to the base, then easy climbing take you below a crack, steeply up flat holds then easily up the crack

FA: Emmanuel F & Alex Anderson, 17 Mar 2019

A hard move gets you into the dihedral (gear behind the flake), go up the corner and exit left into a corner of big "white" blocks under a roof. Crawl right under big roof, then exist straight up sportily through the overhang, finish in the offwidth. Can be done in one pitch with double ropes to avoid drag. Great route

FA: Emmanuel F & Alex Anderson, 17 Mar 2019

Scramble up the boulders, the climb is right next to Wandering Journey. Start chimney-like, and then follow the crack line till the top. Loose rocks to look out for.

Set 27 Jul 2019

FA: Akhil Shah, Vivek & Karan, 27 Jul 2019

Starts at the obvious crack and follow it up tp the small tree. Pass right of the big boulder and Exit at the top on the right side. Belay can be done on a tree 5 away from the edge.

FA: Michel Gass & Remigio Crespo, 17 Mar 2019

Start on the slab going to the crack. Avoid the first part of the crack (frail rocks and sand) by climbing the boulder on the right. Follow the crack on the right side until you get to the roof. Escape the roof through the big triangular protruding block on the left and onto the ledge. Finish the route by exiting on the right side. Belay is built using rocks on top 4m from the edge.

Set 17 Mar 2019

FA: Remigio Crespo & Michel Gass, 17 Mar 2019

Start at the top of a little pedestal filled with trees. Go up the groove past to bushes. Up some stacked blocks. Then straight up the steepening chimney to the top (FA route). The loose rocks at the top could be avoided by swinging right into a sloping crack on black rock. Finish up some steep moves on pockets.

FA: Michel Gass, Emmanuel F & Remigio Crespo, 31 Mar 2019

Up the steep corner, across the black slab, ignore the chossy corner above and aim straight for the tree on the face, finish up behind tower

FA: Emmanuel F & Alex Anderson, 17 Mar 2019

Abseil Tree Number 2

Scramble up to bottom of open book corner and penis belay. Ignore shattered start of the corner, instead start at the right of the ledge on the steep curving crack (big moves) for 5m before moving back left into the corner. Ascend the steep corner on bomber gear and good rock, exit left.

FA: Emmanuel F & Alex Anderson, 17 Mar 2019

Abseil from there

Climb starts after a scramble to the top of the boulder. Aim for triangular block from the right (crux) then straight up to the top.

FA: climbingfish & alex fiksman, 1 May 2019

Start up thin crack to overhang which is turned on the right. Up crack then straight up past smooth rock with a white pile of hardened guano (crux, use as handhold). Move slightly rightwards past blocks to big black flake. Up this to small ledge and move left of the small tree and onto big ledge with a few hyrax skulls. Ignore the easy exit crack on the right and go straight up the shield to the top.

FA: climbingfish & alex fiksman, 1 May 2019

Up the gully. Watch out for wasps! Move left to thin horizontal crack and then back right to the top.

FA: Alex Fiksman & climbingfish, 1 May 2019

FA: Michel Gass & Remigio Crespo, Jun 2019

The routes starts at the very the right of a gully with trees just to the left of a buttress. Go up the little rock gully, make a bouldery move up a block and continue trending left to the corner groove. Good gear.

FA: Remigio Crespo, Emmanuel F & Michel Gass, 31 Mar 2019

Really fun route with interesting moves. Don't be deceived by its looks, the rock is quite solid.

Start at the base of the gully and make your way up to under the overhang, which is avoided to the left with a couple of steep moves. Finish up.

FA: climbingfish, Sejal Shah & Emmanuel F, 20 May 2019

Start in the groove, following the offwith to overang. At the overhang, swing left with some energetic moves. Continue straight up. Don't aim for the arete on the left, instead, stick slightly right. When you reach another overhang, escape right with some steep moves. Then up an overhang with a crack in the middle. Finish straight up up. The route is solid rock overall but has a few loose blocks.

FA: Emmanuel F, Michel Gass & Remigio Crespo, 30 Mar 2019

The best Diff this side of Jacob's Ladder. Start directly below overhanging tree. Scramble up and left to base of crack. Ascend up squeezing through hole at the top.

FA: Rajal Upadyaya & Andrew Gremley, 28 Apr 2019

Start slightly right below overhanging tree, ascend up to tree emerging to the right of it. Best to finish climb here rather than topping off.

FA: Andrew Gremley & Rajal Upadyaya, 28 Apr 2019

The route climbs the offwidth crack in the middle of the tower. Start in the thin crack at the base of the buttress with some big moves to get to the base of the offwidth then follow this to the top of the tower. Very well protected.

To descent, either abseil off the tower or climb down the other side and back up, on the left of the chasm a big flake provides a way through a slightly overhanging start, then straight up.

FA: Emmanuel F & climbingfish, 20 May 2019

Start at the bottom of the left crack, climb it for a couple of meters, then escape the wasps by taking the easy way left

FA: climbingfish & Alex Anderson, 8 Jun 2019

Take the crack on the right of the face to make your way to a short offwidth (watch out for wasps to the left of the crack). Follow this straight up to the top. Exit left to the big ledge. Walk up to the wall directly above and finish up.

FA: Emmanuel F & Alex Anderson, 8 Jun 2019

Start at the base of the wide corner in the middle of the buttress. Climb the corner to a nice crack on your left. Some steep moves get you to a small ledge, which you traverse rightwards back into the corner. Continue up to a steepening which you can avoid using the blocks on your left or continue up the steep corner on dodgy rock (like the FA did).

FA: Emmanuel F & climbingfish, 28 Jul 2019

Scramble up to the base. Take the crack on the left side of the tree. Climb past tree to small roof and move right on to a small ledge with possible boulder belay.

Climb up as you traverse left and into gully. Watch out for loose rocks. Finish straight up.

FA: Sam Mwangi, Liz Ndindi & Angela Nyambura, 27 Jul 2019

Climb the buttress starting slightly on the left. At the top of the pinnacle take up and right and then left past the overhang.

FA: climbingfish & Emmanuel F, 27 Jun 2019

This route is found on Mike Buttress, along the valley floor below and right of the main Stadium faces.

  1. Start at the base of the black slab split vertically by a tempting crack. Ascend the crack to a ledge at 12m, possible tree belay on left.

  2. Ascend broken boulders another 8 meters to a larger ledge, with a cracked wall on the right hand face, and a broad chimney on the left. Another comfortable belay possible here.

  3. Continue up the loose crack in the right-hand wall, or venture out onto more solid ground on the right. To avoid loose boulders on the ledge above, escape rightwards onto the arete.

Belay on solid trees at the top of the buttress.

FA: Alex Anderson & Emmanuel F, 9 Jun 2019

Scramble up towards the base, easily climb up. You get to two good ledges. Follow the crack line untill the tree where the climb ends. Lookout for loose rock.

Set 27 Jul 2019

FA: Akhil Shah, Vivek & Karan, 27 Jul 2019

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