Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Campsite Area Boulders B-Shug | |||||
{US} V4 | ★★ B-Shug
Sit-start with right hand high on a good one-pad crimp and left high on a marginal half-pad crimp round the left of the arete. Go straight up arete to top. FA: Nathan Brand, 2016 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Dump Truck | |||||
{US} V5 | ★★★ Dump Truck
Start on the big horizontal rail then a huge move up to the higher horizontal slot above, and easy top-out. Not too hard once you actually get it, but low-percentage for many people. FA: Nathan Sick, 1 Mar 2017 | ||||
{US} V4 | ★ Lot Lizard
Start to the left of Dump Truck, on wide crimps. Staying left of Dump Truck, go up through a couple of powerful moves and an easier top-out. FA: Nathan Brand, 1 Mar 2017 | ||||
{US} V3 | Truck Stop
Start on obvious horizontal to the right of Dump Truck. Navigate right to a big move and an easy top out. FA: Nathan Sick, 1 Mar 2017 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Falling apart | |||||
{US} V4 | ★★★ Through the tree
Follow the crimps up the left-hand side of the face, and struggle over or under the tree branch at the top. FA: Eric Ducroix | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Giant shoe | |||||
{US} V3 | ★★ Lone boat
Sit-start on the far left of the boulder, get established on good hand-holds and traverse on these to top out on the small boulder on the right. FA: Eric Ducroix, 1 Jan 2018 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Iceberg
Crimpy sit-down start. FA: Eric Ducroix, 1 Jan 2018 | ||||
{US} V1 | Jack, don't let go
Round the side from iceberg, good warm-up. Pretty vertical on crimps. Don't let go! FA: Ian Thorpe, 30 Mar 2020 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Little House on the Prarie | |||||
V1 | ★★ Treehugger
Starts in the juggy crack on the left, follows the crack up right to the dihedral and goes straight up. A really nice climb with an airy top out. The small tree in the middle of the line is off! FA: Andrew Andress | ||||
V3 | ★★ Laura
Far right of the boulder. Sit start at the bottom of the obvious rail, and move up and right using a combo of powerful moves and heel hook trickery. Mantle up and over onto the slab, and walk up to finish. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Log Cabin Proposal
Up the face on the left side of the boulder next to Treehugger. FA: Michele Leone | ||||
V4 | ★★ Wood Stove
Up the middle of the boulder, traverse left on crimps, then same top out as Treehugger FA: Nathan Brand | ||||
{US} V3 | ★★★ The Blind One
Far right of the boulder. Sit start with you right hand on the rail and left hand on an undercling jug. Powerful moves up to a crimp and then the overhanging rail, before topping out on the same finish as Laura. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||
{US} V1 | ★ Donovan McSlabb
Straight up the slab on pebbles to the top. Avoid arete on right and large feature on left (slab only pure and simple) FA: Andrew Andress | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Night Crawler | |||||
{US} V6 | ★ Back Bone
Sit-down start on good rail, moves up the rail and over the lip. Avoid dabbing on the tree that is directly under you. On the boulder with a tree in front of it just to the right of Nightcrawler. FA: Lucho birkner, 29 Jan 2023 | ||||
{US} V6 | ★★ Night Crawler
Sit-down start on the arete, left hand on good side pull and right hand on lowest crimp, starts up the arete and then takes a big swing to the face of the overhang with a very tricky mantle to the top. A true Lukenya test-piece. FA: Nathan Brand (stolen from Andrew Andress), 1 Feb 2017 | ||||
{US} V3 | ★ Creepie-crawlie
Surprisingly fun, to the left of Nightcrawler. Sit-start on the lowest handholds; hard first couple of moves to get stood up, then easy up to the top. FA: Lucho birkner, 29 Jan 2023 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Oversized Block | |||||
V4 | ★★ Kenyan Cowgirl
Highball. Crouch start below and right of the horizontal crack on a pinch and an edge, moves left following the crack and then goes straight up. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||
{US} V0 | Kenyan cowsmallboy
Go up the easy broken rock to the right of Kenyan Cowgirl. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders The One with the View | |||||
V2 | ★★ Quicky
Mental. Traverse left and up on good holds, just don't swing off and down the big drop underneath. FA: Henrick Reuhkala | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders The Roost | |||||
V2 | ★★★ Chickenhead
Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best! FA: Andew Andress | ||||
V3 | ★ Rooster Tail
Sit-down start on the same jug as Chicken Head, moves right and up. (Very tensiony for shorter climbers and probably a full grade harder due to the heinous intermediate side-pull crimp before the jug near the top.) FA: Andew Andress | ||||
V4 | ★★ Kuku Kienyeji
Stand start on the left side of the boulder, traverse across the middle of the face, and finish up the same moves as Rooster Tail. Pumpy! FA: Andew Andress | ||||
{US} V4 | ★ Wet fry chicken
A fun and delicate climb up the left of the boulder. Start on same holds as for Kuku kienyeji, then move left and up using small holds and a sidepull to the top, always staying left of Chicken head holds. A good spot is needed to protect from the tree behind. FA: Sven van Enckevort, 12 Mar 2022 | ||||
{US} V7 | Polla Gol
Right of Rooster Tail. Sit-start on the lowest possible holds. Very hard first move (crux), to get to a better hold out left. Straight up from there. FA: Lucho birkner, 29 Jan 2023 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders The Wave | |||||
V2 | ★★ Ripple
Highball. Stand start and go straight up the face. A really nice technical boulder problem. Avoid using boulder on the right, though it could possibly be a V0 variation if used. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||
Nathan's Project
On the face round the side from Ripple - unclimbed VHard project. Start on obvious holds to the right of the far left arete and climb small crimps to a big move and an easy topout. | |||||
Campsite Area Boulders Trash boat | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Trash boat
Low start on compression of the block that looks like a boat near a pile of trash. Compress your way up to the throne topout. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Upper Roost | |||||
V0 | Upper Roost Warmup
Travel on jugs on overhanging face above Chicken Head. FA: Andew Andress | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Flirt
Start on small crimps on right face of arete on block to the right of upper roost warmup. Landing better than it looks. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Whale's mouth | |||||
V3 | ★★ Mom Pants Traverse
Same start as Oversize Shorts with low left traverse and finishes up Carolyn's Baby. Really fun moves on the overhung traverse. | ||||
V2 | ★ Oversized shorts
Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face FA: Lindsey Andress | ||||
V1 | ★★ Carolyn's baby
Sit-down start matched on low slot edge, goes straight up on great slopers edges and incuts. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||
V3 | Whale's mouth traverse
Start on left most holds in the whale’s mouth and finish on the top out of oversized shorts. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||
{US} V1 | Tonsil Tickler
The line furthest left, or deepest inside the whale's mouth. Short but with a tricky first move. Stand-start on the lowest usable holds and a high foot, straight up through the horizontal break and slanting crack above. FA: Ian Thorpe, 15 May 2022 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Satellite Dish | |||||
V1 | ★ Satellite dish
Up the boulder using the feature that looks like a satellite dish. FA: Andrew Andress, 2016 | ||||
{US} V1 | Fish in Space
Stand-start on the left side of the boulder, just right of a tree. Start with both hands on the arete and feet below, and work your way up to the highest point of the boulder and top out there (just before joining Searching for UFOs). Useful to have a friend to hold tree branches out of the way. FA: Fish Shah, 4 Mar 2023 | ||||
{US} V2 | ★ Searching for UFOs
SIt-start to the left of Satelitte Dish, with left hand on good crimp on low rail and right hand on a low gaston crimp. Hard first move to stand up and reach a diagonal crimp up and right. Easier to the top. Useful to have a friend hold branches out of the way. FA: Ian Thorpe, 5 Mar 2023 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Rookie Rock | |||||
VB | ★ Credit Card Warm-up
This is the obvious easiest line on the boulder. It's juggy all the way up and easily doable for most climbers in flip flops. FA: Probably a Maasai sheperd | ||||
V2 | ★★ Ice Cube
Sit-down start with left hand on rail and right on low crimp, moves up the short problem using slopey compression and crimps. It's a nice lowball. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||
V1 | ★★ Dancin' Shoes
Sit-down start with left hand low on arete and right hand on a very low undercling, moves a few moves up the arete and then traverses right across and up a the slab. Avoid going all the way up arete or around on the left side. FA: Lindsey Andress | ||||
V1 | ★★ Rookie of the Year
Sit-down start (almost lying) on low jug and goes straight up the right side of the boulder. FA: John Shunk | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Cereal Killer | |||||
{US} V0 | ★ Cheerio
Up the easiest part of the boulder with lots of textured holds and good feet. Stand-start. Good for first-timers outside or for a quick warm-up. FA: John Shunk, 6 Sep 2017 | ||||
V1 | Frosted Flake
Ascend the boulder using the flake on its left-hand side. STand-start. FA: John Shunk | ||||
{US} V1 | ★ Special K
To the right of Cheerio, where there is an orange band of smooth rock on the lower half of the face. Stand-start on small feet and the lowest decent handholds. Straight up from there. FA: Ian Thorpe, 15 May 2022 | ||||
{US} V2 | Cap'n Crimp
Stand-start on the lowest-usable crimps. Hard first move to a decent hold, straight up from there. FA: Ian Thorpe, 15 May 2022 | ||||
{US} V1 | Feetos
To the right of Special K. Stand-start on the lowest good holds. Find your feet and go straight up. FA: Ian Thorpe, 15 May 2022 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Razorback | |||||
{US} V5 | ★★ Razorblade
Start low in the cave on a crimp rail and up to bigger jug (left of razorback start holds). Up and left the steep face on small crimps, avoiding any of the larger razorback holds to the right. Join razorback for the topout only. Would be 3* if not a bit of an eliminate! FA: Livio van Enckevort | 5m | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ Razorback
Sit start on low rail. Make big move up to the crimp and commit to the top out. FA: Nathan Brand FA: Nathan Brand | ||||
{US} V3 | ★ Angelina
Nice warmup for the other two, with an interesting topout. Sit-start on the obvious hold on the right of the boulder, going to another good hold with quite a big move, then up again. Keep your nerve for the topout, the holds are there. Spotter should jump on top of the boulderer if they fall to avoid tumbling down the rock behind! FA: Andrew Andress, 1 May 2017 | ||||
{US} V4 | ★★ Social Distancing
Beautiful line going up the arete, avoiding Razorback holds until the jug for the topout. Sit start low to the left of the arete, come round to the right of it to a good crimp, then a big move up the slanting crack. Keep it together and go for the finishing jug before the same topout as Razorback. FA: John Shunk, 19 Mar 2020 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Golden Nugget | |||||
{US} V4 | ★★★ Golden Nugget
Crouch start in full compression. Climb the fridge trending left to the top out. Takes the proud south-facing face and the two aretes. Start with a right hand on the arete on the rigth and a left on a crimp in the centre of the face. Work your way up with compression magic. Spotter for the FA was tied into a rope anchored on a nearby tree to avoid a tumble down the cliff below and protect the climber! FA: Nathan Brand, 4 Aug 2017 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Upper Pleistocene Cranial Remains | |||||
First ascentionist gets to name
Take the overhanging crack from right to left. Still unclimbed. | |||||
Campsite Area Boulders Pick your poison | |||||
{US} V5 | Pick your poison
Start with right hand on good crimp and left on your choice of bad holds lower down. Pick between two poor choices of of foot beta and make two moves to the lip and top out. The sit-start from the two lowest crimps remains to be done. FA: Logan Kennedy, 12 Mar 2022 | ||||
Campsite Area Boulders Abstract Hyrax | |||||
{US} V2 | Abstract Hyrax
If you hate it-starts stay away. Sit-start on big holds low on the lip, and awkwardly and with difficult mantle up. Straight up from there. FA: Ian Thorpe, 17 Sep 2023 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Golden Block | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Fanta Orange
Starts crouched. Straight up the face on good holds, just don't look down at the top to avoid fantaing your trousers. FA: Andrew Andress, 1 Apr 2017 | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Golden Shower
Same start as Golden Power, bail right around the arete. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||
V5/6 | ★★★ Golden Power
Start on arete, make your way left onto face and then straight up through big powerful moves. FA: Nathan Brand, 1 May 2017 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Nemesis Posse | |||||
{US} V3 | ★★ Lizard Sandwich
Start on the slab on the left. Go up and right. FA: Emmanuel F, 2015 | ||||
{US} V3 | ★★ Dos
Start on small crimps in the mdidle of the face. Up and right to finish. FA: 2017 | ||||
{US} V1 | ★★ Tres
Stand-start far right and traverse left and up to finish. FA: 2017 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Paradise ladder | |||||
V2 | ★★★ Paradise ladder
Nice. #juggy FA: Emmanuel F | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Horse Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Farasi
Sit-down start on low jug and goes up left of arete on good crimps. FA: Nathan Brand, 3 May 2017 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Horse Trailer on a Cadillac
Same start hold as Farasi and goes left on a powerful traverse and topout. FA: Andrew Andress? | ||||
{US} V2/3 | Bigrock Horseman
Sit-start low to the right of the arete, go up on crimps and big left-hand gaston staying right of arete to the top. FA: Ian Thorpe, 2 Apr 2020 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Kichwa Kobe | |||||
{US} V4 | ★★ Kilpikonna
Sit-start from a squarish hold under the arete. Powerful first move up to a crack, then easier but fun moves up the arete to finish. FA: Joel M, 31 Oct 2020 | ||||
{US} V2/3 | ★ Touching cotton
Sit-start at the furthest right and lower point of the big diagonal cracks. Work your way up this leftwards to get establish on good holds when the cracks end. From here either dyno to the top or use a poor intermediate crimp and bump up. Top out from there. FA: Ian Thorpe, 31 Oct 2020 | ||||
{US} V1 | Cigare au bout des lèvres
Not a classic but can be a good warm-up. Stand-start on a horizontal crack on the left of the boulder, then right and up on good holds. FA: Ian Thorpe, 31 Oct 2020 | ||||
{US} V2 | Prairie-dogging
Same sit-start as for Touching cotton, the lowest holds on the right of big diagonal cracks. From here move up right on holds in cracks and mantle over the top. FA: Ian Thorpe, 31 Oct 2020 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Bergmeister | |||||
{US} V1 | Felix the Cat
A couple of variations on the left-hand side of the boulder, starting stood up at the horizontal rail and mantling. Very short but strenuous. FA: Felix Berg, 2005 | ||||
{US} V6 | ★★★ Berghain
Sit-start on the only real obvious holds through the middle of the boulder. Hard move to get established in the pocket, then hard moves to the top. FA: Felix Berg, 2005 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Kizunguzungu | |||||
{US} V2 | ★ Mzunguzungu
Better than it looks. Stand-start in the middle of the overhang matched on okay holds and feet high. Get up to the big block and mantle above this to finish up the slab above. FA: Ian Thorpe, 31 Oct 2020 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Mabati Roof Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Mabati Roof
Stack pads to start on the only jug you could possibly reach then climb left out of the roof on an incredible crack line. Really Fun and unique climb. FA: Andrew Andress? | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Slabba the Hutt | |||||
{US} V1 | ★★ Slab in the face
Easiest and most obvious line up the boulder. Stand-start, follow the crack in the middle of the boulder. FA: Ian Thorpe & Henrik, 8 Nov 2020 | ||||
{US} V1 | ★★ Slabdash
Stand-start on big obvious holds to the left of the crack line and work your way delicately up avoiding the crack on your right. FA: Ian Thorpe & Henrik, 8 Nov 2020 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Dhoruba | |||||
{US} V2 | Mvua inakuja
Short but fun problem. Start on lowest usable hold on the arete, one hardish move up to the big flakes, then work your way left along the arete and up to finish. FA: Ian Thorpe, 8 Nov 2020 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Shinrin-yoku | |||||
{US} V3 | ★ Ukiyo
Start matched on the decent rail on the far right of the boulder. Couple powerful first moves up to the lip, then use holds a bit further right for a tricky mantle. Short but esthetic line. FA: Ian Thorpe, 6 Dec 2020 | ||||
{US} V2 | Yugen
On the left side of the boulder. Start on a good rail, then a big move to a decent hold just under the lip. From there find holds further in and mantle. FA: Ian Thorpe, 6 Dec 2020 | ||||
{US} V4 | ★ Gekko
Start matched on the smaller crimp rail to the left of Yugen. Find a hold round the corner on the left, then up to the top edge and find a way to mantle up. FA: Luca van Enckevort, 9 Oct 2022 | ||||
{US} V4 | ★★ Tsuki no shutsu
Short but very fun. Start in the obvious slot to the left of Ukiyo. Big move up to the lip, then cut loose and match before moving left to better holds and mantling. FA: Luca van Enckevort, 9 Oct 2022 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Roof Boulder 1 | |||||
{US} V3 | ★★ Cave Man
The firs ascent was done onsight, no crash pads, no shoes, no chalk, no warmup. A true spur of the moment ascent. Climb straight up from a sharp rail by way of one big move and a series of smaller holds lead to the topout. FA: Peter Naituli, 25 Apr 2021 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Baboon Cliff Boulders | |||||
{US} V0 | Jug Juggler
Stand-start, up the left-hand side of the boulder on good holds. FA: Ian Thorpe, 31 Aug 2022 | ||||
{US} V1 | ★ Muscle-up Master
Sit-start on the big blocky holds low down, mantle this staying on the arete rather than the slab to the right, delicately reach holds on top of the boulder and muscle up to top out. FA: Peter Naituli, 31 Aug 2022 | ||||
V0 | ★ Slab Slob
Stand-start. Up the middle of the slabby section of the boulder, good practice for finding feet and smearing on slabs. FA: Ian Thorpe, 31 Aug 2022 | ||||
{US} V1 | ★ High-Step Hero
Stand-start. Start at the same spot as for Slab Slob, but go right up a less obvious section of the slab, via a high right foot and bellyflop. FA: Peter Naituli, 31 Aug 2022 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Weakness Boulder | |||||
{US} V1 | TBD1
Sit start, hands on the lowest holds. Only the arete is in. | ||||
{US} V0 | TBD2
Sit start, both hands in the crack. Up the crack and left onto the half-way ledge. Straight up from there. | ||||
V3 | ★ The jammings are coming
Interesting problem with potential for varying jams and holds. Low sit start to establish, avoiding the boulder to left for whole problem, otherwise quality and difficulty is massively compromised. FA: Mark Haworth | ||||
{US} V3 | ★★ Witness the Weakness
Crouch start with both hands in the big crack, on the left. Go straight up from there, avoiding Weakness Protection Programme which is further right. FA: Eric Ducroix, 2 Apr 2017 | ||||
{US} V2 | Weakness Protection Programme
Very similar to Witness the Weakness, but start further right with hand in the big crack and follow the line of the vertical crack above to the top. FA: Ian Thorpe, 2 Apr 2020 | ||||
{US} V4 | ★★ Line of Weakness
Crouch-start on the right of the boulder, where a small, shallow, horizontal crack on the middle of the boulder peters out. Start with both hands on decent crimps at this point (can be crossed), with bad feet, and work your way left along decent if small crimps. Go up and finish when you reach the first vertical crack (top of Weakness Protection Programme). FA: Ian Thorpe, 19 Feb 2023 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Eskeletor | |||||
{US} V0 | Eskeletor
Easy warm-up or beginner lowball. Traverse left to right with hands on jugs on the arete. FA: 2 Apr 2020 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Pâtisserie | |||||
{US} V2 | ★★ Bolt-Free Froggies
Go up the arete opposite Witness the Weakness. Start on jugs on the left for easier, lower on crimps on the right for harder. FA: Emmanuel F, 1 Apr 2017 | ||||
{US} V0 | Croissant
On the far left of the boulder, from the platform of the large boulder below. Stand-start on obvious big jugs on the arete and go straight up more jugs. FA: Ian Thorpe, 9 Apr 2023 | ||||
{US} V3 | ★ Pain au Chocolat
To the right of Croissant. Sit-start matched on a low small crimp. Hard first move from here up to a decent flat hold, then up to better more incut holds directly above. Stay right of Croissant and its holds the whole way. FA: Ian Thorpe, 9 Apr 2023 | ||||
{US} V2 | Pain au Raisin
Right of Pain au Chocolat. Stand-start on two crimps and go straight up, using an intermediate crimp and getting feet up. FA: Ian Thorpe, 9 Apr 2023 | ||||
{US} V2 | Chouquette
Right of Pain au Raisin and very similar. Stand-start on obvious holds, go straight up via a good horn and getting feet up. FA: Ian Thorpe, 9 Apr 2023 | ||||
{US} V1 | ★ Baguette
Fun one-move problem. Stand-start on big obvious jugs. Straight up via a big move to jugs at the top. Just make sure you get the jugs or have a good spotter as the landing is awkward. FA: Livio van Enckevort, 9 Apr 2023 | ||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Barabara Blues | |||||
V4 | ★ Barabara Blues
Deceptively tricky. Stand/squat-start on two low crimps along the same crackline around the bulge. Hard first move, then easier to top, straight up. FA: Ian Thorpe, 17 Sep 2023 | ||||
{US} V2 | On the Road
Stand-start with hands matched on the big obvious flake. Move right and up the arete to mantle. FA: Ian Thorpe, 17 Sep 2023 |