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North Crag

  • Grade context: UK

Rock: Rock can be loose

There have been a couple of serious accidents in recent years at Ndeiya, both involving loose rock. Please bear in mind while climbing that rock might break or come off, and rescues from Ndeiya can be difficult and lengthy. If it is your first time, climb within your limits and even on very easy ground use protection when available. See an accident write-up here: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/124402558/serious-accident-in-kenya-lessons-questions.

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Created 9 months ago

Access issues inherited from Around Nairobi

Please be considerate of locals and do not pay for climbing (outside of National Parks) without first consulting the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Ethic inherited from Kenya

If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!

Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start about 40 meters to the right of the way down between Central and North Crags. A large flake with a sort of flake in its centre and a large tree on top.

  1. 23 m - Start at the right in the trough between the slab and a boulder. Move up leftwards and back right to bottom of flake. Up more easily to a platform at 18 m. Up cracked wall to tree.

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1967

Start at a cairn.

  1. 18 m - Up the easy slab on the left.

  2. 15 m - Up and traverse left to the chimney making an exit from it on the right.

  3. a) Or better, straight up the steepening buttress on small lichenous holds.

FA: C.G. Powell, J. Powell & M.S. Harris, 1965

Start at the cairn.

  1. 21 m - Up the flat buttress on the right over some hollow sounding rock to a tree. Pull up behind the tree; and move right to top of pinnacle.

  2. 15 m - Up overhanging boulder and two more boulders to the top.

FA: C.G. Powell & J. Powell, 1965

A practice peg climb, perhaps it could be done free. Start to the left of The Bow up an obvious crack slanting from left to right at first.

  1. 24 m - Mixed peg and free moves up the crack and exit on left at the top.

Start below obvious curving crack

  1. 9m - From the boulder on the right traverse left high up to a good foothold and across to a large platform in the corner.

  2. 30m - Chimney up the curving crack to a block on the left wall. Carefully past this to top of overhang, then move left onto the wall and above into easy cracks

FA: M.S. Harris, C.G. Powell & J. Powell, 1967

Start where the cliff recedes into a corner.

  1. 12 m - The corner and left wall to a stance with a small tree belay above the left wall.

  2. 18 m - Return to the chimney and take the right hand fork where it divides. At the overhang ascend to reach a line of good holds (crux) using which a Russian dance is executed left to land in a tree.

  3. 15 m - Where the corner steepens at 6 m break right onto the face. Airy chimney on good holds and then move easily to the top.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers & K. Dangerfield, 1965

Start up a crack with a tree stump.

  1. 18 m - Up over the stump and past small shrub (crux) and left onto a block. Up to tree and a very large ledge.

  2. 18 m - Up slabs from the left end of the ledge finishing up a crack with a small tree.

FA: J. Powell & C.G. Powell, 1965

Start 5 m right of Double Wood.

  1. 15 m - Up the groove and swing left onto the face and across into the corner. Up this to big ledge. Nut belay.

  2. 7 m - Up the overhanging corner using the second as a foothold to reach a big ledge with trees.

  3. 15 m - Take the fine crack at the right hand end of the ledge which leads to a forest and fight to the top.

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1966

Start at the tree to the right of The Jammer, below an obvious cave.

  1. 21 m - Up the wall and slab and the right hand corner to a stance above the fig tree in the cave.

  2. 12 m - Climb inside the chimney and then traverse out to a contortionate move into the crack, the crux. The crack above is narrow but gets progressively easier. Belay on a large platform.

  3. 12 m - Straight up the crack above, or diagonally across the slab on the left to finish up the corner.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers & S. Mayodi

Start about 9 m right of Grendel, to the left.of the tree, is a long curving line of corner

  1. 34 m - At 5 m bear left with some difficulty to reach the base of the chimney proper. The prominent chockstone can be surmounted by climbing first on the right wall. Above a mantleshelf on the left wall leads to the continuation of the chimney which relents at a large ledge at 30 m. Belay above.

  2. 9 m - The right hand of the two lines and the more pleasant.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers, H.W. Mwongela & T. Phillips, 1965

A steep corner above a slab behind a tree. Start at a tree, just to the left of the Bridge.

  1. 14 m - Up the tree and slab behind it. Move right behind the upper branches of a second tree and up to a small ledge and tree belay.

  2. 14 m - Up the corner on poor hand jams. It is possible to rest at the tree branch on the left. Continue bridging and move right to belay at the top.

  3. 12 m - Up the continuation crack and chimney to the top.

FA: M.S. Harris, C.G. Powell & J. Powell, 1966

A corner groove with twin cracks and an overhanging chockstone at the top. Start on ledges at the left.

  1. 24 m - Up lower groove, semi hand traverse right, mantleshelf and move up small tree to enter main groove in right hand crack. Up this by wide bridging good jams with a hard move at a small overhang. Belay above chockstones.

  2. 9 m - The crack on the left and a fight with a shrub to the top.

A fine route

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1966

Start in the centre of the North Crag where the cliff is at its highest and there is a break leading to the left.

  1. 34 m - Climb easily diagonally right with two short corners to a platform.

  2. 21 m - Straight up from the platform.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers, S. Mayodi & E. Rutowitz, 1964

Between Alicanthus and Ladies’ Day Chimneys is a large tree 6 m up a wall.

  1. 9 m - Easily up to the tree, using white root hanging down.

  2. 9 m - Up steep crack to where it closes. Move left onto wall and up to large ledge. Tree belay. A good pitch.

  3. 30 m - Awkward corner on right to another tree.

  4. 15 m - The Chimney above is a struggle until a committing mantleshelf on the right enables the bulge to be surmounted, then easily up crack with care of loose blocks.

FA: M.S. Harris & R.J.H. Chambers, 1966

Start - the climb lies up the chimney on the right hand side of a slab.

  1. 14 m - Climb the chimney in the corner to a ledge.

  2. 23 m - Follow the second chimney to the top.

FA: J. Winning, D. Standring & C. Brown, 1964

Start to the right of Ladies’ Day Chimney at a buttress with a ledge and a tree at 9 m.

  1. 9 m - Up the steep slab to a large tree belay.

  2. 14m - Up the diamond shaped slab and groove on the left to a small cave with a bush. Constricted moves left (crux) and up the crack to the top of Little Pinnacle.

  3. 8 m - Up the crack above its left hand end.

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1966

Start up and to the right of Little Pinnacle Groove below the right hand side of the Little

  1. 18 m - Up the slab beneath the tree and the cracked corner above. Swing left using a tree to reach a second tree at the foot of the chimney.

  2. 12 m - Up the chimney to the top of the pinnacle and up the wall behind.

FA: C.G. Powell, J. Powell & R.D. Metcalfe, 1966

Start 3 m right of Little Pinnacle Chimney.

  1. 6 m - Scramble up the gully to the right of the slab.

  2. 15 m - Ascend the crack above (crux) until it is possible to move right to ge above the tree in the crack. Belay on top of the bush.

  3. 40 ft. - Move diagonally left up wall, then back right into the crack by a largi detached flake. Straight up to the top.

FA: M.S. Harris & G. Alexander, 1967

The Penultimate crack at the right hand end of North Crag.

  1. 9 m - Traverse leftwards across the slab on the right of the direct line to a platform at the bottom of a chimney.

  2. 15 m - Climb crack up to a tree, and above this enter the chimney. Up with difficulty to good holds just below the top. Exit facing right (crux).

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1967

The last corner on this crag.

  1. 24 m - Up over blocks to enter a corner crack leading to a small tree. Over this and up the chimney above - rather loose.

FA: R.D. Metcalfe, C.G. Powell & J. Powell, 1966

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