Routes in Around Nairobi for selected grade

1. 30m. Start in a slight recess just to left of large fig tree. A prominent flake lies on the face. Climb to good stance on this flake. Traverse right along ledge. Thread runner in a hole at 6m. Continue traversing at this level round the corner and then ascend 9m to reach the "keyhole". Belay peg in place and thread in back of "keyhole".

2. 20m. Climb upwards out of "keyhole" until level with a series of cracks running out to the left along the overhanging portion of the cliff. Move out along these cracks. Two awkward moves lead to a wide, grassy ledge. Easy climbing to top.

The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

Starting up Golden Anniversary, join Committee Wall at the 'keyhole'

A superb direct finish to Corpse. Instead of heading right as for Corpse, hang on a big jug, place a nut, and blast upward with some steep, gymnastic moves through the shallow groove at half height. Pause to get some gear in before continuing on direct on very thin and balancey moves to get onto the final slab finish. Combined with the first half of Corpse this makes a sustained, varied and interesting route. Well worthwhile! (First top rope ascent by Hamish and Max)

Probably worth doing if for no other reason than the rare pleasure of climbing a crack at Lukenya. At the left end of Upper Cliffs is a dark bay. The Lizard takes the line up the corner, and immediately left of the bay is a steep wall with an overhang at 4.5m. Left of this is a thin crack. Ascend crack on finger-locks for 10m, then easily up arete to abseil cable.

Start some 7.5m right of The Joy Of Frogs just left of prominent tree. Strenuous pull up over bulge (it is a crime to touch tree), then up slightly left to steep wall. Mantle shelf up this then up to belay ledge at 25m. Either traverse left to abseil cable or make long rising traverse up rightwards to top of cliff.

Start about 4.5m right of Pilot Of The Storm. Easily up to flake at 4.5m then surmount overhanging wall above on good jugs. Up slightly rightwards on easier rock to belay. Finish as for Pilot Of The Storm.

Originally led without the bolt this little climb then packed a wallop. Go up the gully on the right of the Buttress to base of prominent arete immediately right of steep portion of cliff. Start directly below arete which is climbed to horizontal break. Bolt above. Step right, up, then left above bolt to easier ground. Continue left to good position on skyline. Straight up to top.

The easiest route on Nemesis, located round the corner at the right-hand side of the crag. Slightly slabby start up to good jugs to the top. Try not to pull too hard on the flakes!

The last bolted climb to the right of the crag, round the corner. Climb the first few meters of the slab, then step left and straight up the route with the crux of the moves coming after 10m of climbing. Multiple options for holds enable climbers to finish it in various different ways. Be gentle with the flakes.

Same start as Smooth or it is possible to begin about 2m to the right. Clipping the first bolt of Smooth is definitely offroute. After reaching the first pocket on Smooth, climb a left-lacing crack (will take a cam) about 3m to the right of the bolt and move up and left of an orange dihedral (a smallish wire can be put behind a flake). Continue up steep ground to a horizontal crack (flexi-cam placement) and either move straight up onto a good horizontal ledge or move left and up using good holds and a hanging flake higher up (possible pro here). Exit rightwards.

2020 Edit: This route is probably the same as 'Bliss of Nemesis', which was bolted without being aware of the existence of this trad route.

The story revolves around an attractive reddish diedre, the start of which is about six to eight feet to the right of Smooth and Some Like It Rough. Initially quite easy, one heads up to a prominent ledge on the left side. About ten feet up, a vertical slot on the right can take a large Friend. However, if the Friend is not at hand, slightly higher up there are two bomb-proof wire placements; these are just before surmounting the ledge on the left. At this point the diedre may appear rather smooth and lacking in hand-holds, but by moving slightly right, one is passed the first climax and is comfortably gripping the slithery arête. Sinking one’s hands into the moist cavity just below the hanging orchid garden, one should notice a beautiful side-slot for up to two wires. Some rather exquisite moves follow just to the left of the hanging garden (the second climax), which allow one to grip some gorgeous jugs, although care must be exercised as this point can be rather strenuous. A wire slots into a good hand-rail allowing one to protect the easy, final moves to the finish.

A polite request: the hanging orchid on this climb is a rare and quite beautiful plant (well, it’s beautiful when it flowers); sufficient holds and protection exist to climb the route without disturbing it, so please keep to the r.d. and let’s not destroy it.

To the right of Comparing Notes is a corner. Start on right-hand side of corner at hole at about 1m. Ascend and slant left around corner, then straight up to top.

Start 3m left of Theft at small "V" shaped holds. Climb about 4m on small holds then move slightly left (crux), reaching crack. Up overhang and easy to finish.

Start 2m left of obvious demarcation between lichen and dark rock. Start on small holds leading to scoops. Direct line continues to horizontal crack at approx. 7.5m (pro), then continues on easier ground to belay.

Start some 20m right of Number One at two parallel rock faults. Climb left-hand fault 4.5m then move to right- hand fault and follow to top.

A quick mantle leads to an easy slab and a perfect steep upper section just left of the tree. Lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

A difficult start that can be avoided if traversing from the right. From here, work up easier terrain to a stance below the face. A final tricky section lies in wait at the top!

One of the original lines. Work up to a first bolt through one of a few variations to start. Hardest and most interesting variation is to go direct up the slab (4c is for this direct variation).

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is a new bolted anchor.

Sure to be a classic. Work up the easy slab to good holds. From here swim up perfect jugs through the steep upper section to a two-bolt anchor.

Start up a tricky slab to a stance before tackling a few more hard moves to reach the third bolt. From here, romp up better holds on steeper terrain to the anchor.

Go up the easy broken rock to the right of Kenyan Cowgirl.

Travel on jugs on overhanging face above Chicken Head.

Up the easiest part of the boulder with lots of textured holds and good feet. Stand-start. Good for first-timers outside or for a quick warm-up.

Stand-start, up the left-hand side of the boulder on good holds.

Stand-start. Up the middle of the slabby section of the boulder, good practice for finding feet and smearing on slabs.

Sit start, both hands in the crack. Up the crack and left onto the half-way ledge. Straight up from there.

Easy warm-up or beginner lowball. Traverse left to right with hands on jugs on the arete.

On the far left of the boulder, from the platform of the large boulder below. Stand-start on obvious big jugs on the arete and go straight up more jugs.

Stand-start just right of the left arete. Go straight up.

Up the slab on the easier right-hand face of the boulder. Sit-start on the big crack, straight up via one slightly tricky friction foot move.

Same start as for Screaming hyrax, but go up the earlier diagonal crack.

Start on the higher crack on the left of the boulder, and follow it up to to its end and top out.

Entrance

On the left side of the boulder from Baby Slap. Stand-start on good feet and and handholds. Up jugs to the top.

Stand-start to the right of the crack in the middle of the boulder. Move up staying right of the crack.

SIt-start on the lowest rail on the slabby black rock to the right of Sit-start warm-up and Mojave. First move hardest, but still easy enough, then up jugs to the top.

On the right side of the mountain-facing side of the lower boulder, just left of the very tall face and Slipper Feet and Osoit. Stand-start on obvious big holds and go up on more good holds from there. A bit high but always on solid holds.

Stand-start on the right of the boulder, just left of where it cracks, on good holds. Up on jugs.

Sit-start on same holds as Ninja, move right to big rail, using the flake above gently to exit right.

To the far left of the cave, the short wall curves into a dilute arete. The route goes up this. do not fall.

Great introduction to highballing - good rock, good feet and good holds with a juggy finish. Stand-start in a kind of break in the bushes and trees about 10 m right of Bone Hole. Straight up the obvious line of holds to the top.

Stand-start on the left-hand side of the boulder, with hands on good holds. Work your way up and right along the jugs on the arete.

Second line from the left, straight up from a stand-start on two decent holds. Up and slightly right. The sit-start is V2, from the low blocky hold.

Stand-start from the side-pull on the left of the boulder. Straight up on good holds.

Good slab climbing exercise. Go straight up the middle of the small slab from standing, relying on friction and small pebbles.

Easy moves up the left of the boulder.

Up the arete on the right.

To the right of sanity crumble, start low and delicately get to the top.

At the extreme right end of the Main Wall there is an obvious corner where the cliff bends sharply into Entrance Wall. This route makes its way up to the left of the corner. Start below the prominent nose by a large detached block.

1. 25 m. Climb onto block then up steep crack to ledge. Follow crack above until it is possible to step right, then up blocks to good belay.

2. 25 m. Climb above belay and step right to ledge. Now up to higher ledge, from where a traverse leads left for 5 m to a crack. Up this and belay on a detached block. Peg belay.

3. 30 m. Straight up slabs above for 10 m to recess (peg runner). Descend a few feet then traverse left across steep wall to crack. Up this to ledge then finish up broken rock to the right. Seriousness: 3

To the right of Recompense there is a thin crack descending from the bush. Ignore this but start 3 m right where there is a rightwards leaning wall. Move up wall then step left into groove. Continue up this for 9 m until a move can be made right onto a slab and ledge. Now left to sharp arete and swing around this to join Recompense below the overhang which is turned on its right. Finish up Recompense.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

At the left end of the recessed area is a large guano-smeared cave/chimney. This climb takes the crack to the right of this. Bridge up past the chockstones to the leftwards slantrng crack. Follow this to the top (crux). Good protection all the way.

Historic route number: 1

Ian Howell's 60th birthday present from MCK! This super little route is a rare commodity at Frog - a relatively easy sport climb. Start on left side of small buttress below an obvious horizontal flake/hold at 5'. Climb straight up over 4 bolts.

Historic route number: 2a

Begin just to the right of 'Bazooka'. Climb a crack until an awkward move can be made out to the left onto the obvious break which horizontally crosses Bazooka . Traverse leftwards across 'Bazooka', then climb the wall direct to tree belay.

Historic route number: 5

The thin crack on the right edge of the recessed grey slab is climbed on fingerjams, then the wider easier crack to the top.

Historic route number: 10

This is a direct version of the above route and begins in the same place. Up the chimney to tree. Move up and take the overhang by the bolt, finishing up some 'short and explosive' moves to top.

Historic route number: 15

This is the obvious chimney at the extreme left end of the main 'Frog Buttress'. Climb the chimney until a move out right can be made, and go up past a small tree. Move up the crack above, stepping left across wall and up to top.

Historic route number: 16

This climb is marred by the close proximity of the tree. The first few moves off the ground are [16], the rest of the climb being [15]. Start right of the big tree, under the first bolt. Straight up awkwardly (the boulder to the right of the start should not be used for assistance), and slightly left under two big branches that can be used for protection. Pass the second bolt to the left (crux) and step back right and finish above.

Historic route number: 21

To the right of 'Blue Valentine' is a large fig tree with its roots growing 20' up a wide crack. Climb the crack to the top.

Historic route number: 26

This route goes up the next wide crack to the right.

Historic route number: 27

Any climbers who feel the need to use the tree at the start of this route should look for another climb! Start behind obvious tree to the left of 'Flight of Fancy'. Hard move off ground, then follow crack to top.

Historic route number: 32a

A short climb but a good introduction to Frog climbing. Start below the corner 30' right of 'Flight of Fancy' with a tree at 35'. Climb left bulging wall then step right into corner when possible. Straight up through tree to top.

Historic route number: 34

This is the next wide chimney right, with the column of rock at its base. Climb the deep chimney to the chockstone. Surmount this and continue to top.

Historic route number: 36

This route follows the right-hand crack system at the back of the deep recess left of 'Ragged Glory'.

Follow the left-hand branch of the obvious crack, over horn to ledge at 30'. Enter the chimney until bulge forces you out left...or right? Finish through guano-filled tunnel under final chockstone.

Historic route number: 43b

Start in the slight recess just right of the previous route. Move up slightly leftwards to slab (same slab as 'The Day After'), then move rising rightwards, across the slab to an obvious finishing crack. Climb this to top.

Historic route number: 52

The face of the buttress to the right of the last route is split by a prominent crack. Climb up to the chockstone and surmount this to a ledge. Continue up the crack at the back using the left wall. The wide crack above is gained by an awkward step left, and followed to the top.

Historic route number: 59

Climb the deep obvious cave crack in the centre of the main buttress. Exit leftwards.

Historic route number: 65

At the right end of the crag are two open grooves. This route takes the left of these. Climb past the tree and continue to the top.

Historic route number: 71

This route climbs the square-cut groove to the right of 'Quisling'.

Historic route number: 72

To the left of 'Deception' is a slab leading to a leftwards-slanting ramp ending in a wide crack. Climb the slab to the ledge and make a hard move to gain the ramp. Up this to the foot of the crack. Climb carefully past a large loose block to gain the crack and finish.

Historic route number: 81

In the corner recess in the middle of the crag is a short chimney. Climb this to a ledge, and move left to a thin finger crack. Up this and exit left avoiding loose blocks.

Historic route number: 88

Start to the right of 'Moby Dick', directly behind some thin trees. Climb the corner/crack past three detached blocks. Climb black slab. Finish up the crack on left.

Historic route number: 90

This route climbs the black slab to the right of 'Maggie'. Start on top of a boulder, and make an awkward move onto the slab, then into the corner recess. Climb the slab to the bottom of the crack. Follow this to a good ledge and finish up the boulders on the left.

Historic route number: 91

A well bolted slabby sport route up the path of least resistance up the wall. Friable face holds may make the route easier or harder as the route cleans up. Bolted anchors without rap rings, due to the slabby nature of the route, tufts of grass, and flakes it is not advisable to rappel the route. Bring around 12 quickdraws and material for bolted anchor building. Watch for loose rock

1. 20m Start at a scoop of rock on a slabby buttress on the right side of the wall 5.7

2. 30m Continue up the slab with delicate movements past tufts of grass 5.7

3. 30m Meander up the slab as the steepness backs off and starts to form a large sloping ledge, be careful of loose rock 5.5

4. 20m From the belay climb the steeper rock through insecure slab climbing. a cruxy move or two brings you to a small perch 5.8+

5. 40m Continue up the steep slab as the angle gradually wears off to a set of bolts by a large boulder 5.8

Walk off descent to climbers left

Easy smearing up the backside slab of the boulder. Be humbled by the local kids walking up it barefoot.

Up the left side of the rightmost slab.

1. This route starts on the left toe of the large formation and heads up the path of least resistance to a good stance on a big ledge above the Guano Chimney.

2. A second pitch up a steeper section leads to anchors on top.

I guess technically this is a First Ascent? Climb the loose dirty chimney to the right of Wazimu. No protection. 45 feet.

Mantle up to the first bolt. Tricky climbing leads to the second bolt as the terrain eases off to finish.

Continuous thoughtful climbing on a short face to a two-bolt anchor.

The R side of buttress climbed by Daphne's Delight. Start 35m R of Daphne's Delight and some 6m. R of a groove leading to a tree with grey roots 30m. above the ground. A thin start leads to good holds which are followed R-wards for 15m. Then a rising traverse L to a tree in a groove (35m.). Climb groove using roots for 10m., then traverse R along sloping ledge to a thin crack; climb this and walls above to tree (30m.). Traverse 6m. L and go up to tree at foot of steep crack; take this and at end step L to blocks, then L again round lichen arete, moving up to a wide diagonal crack rising L. Climb crack and sloping ledges above to terrace (35m.). Ignore a wide gully straight above terrace. Look to buttress on R of the gully. Ascend L arete of buttress for 6m. then traverse R to obvious ear-shaped flake. Now move up L then directly in middle of buttress to a tree (25m.). Behind the belay climb a chock-filled gully for about 15m. to its top at a ledge. A steep thin crack splits the wall on L; climb this with considerable difficulty for 15m. until good holds appear on a lichen bulge. Move up bulge L-wards to grassy terrace (35m.).

Long sport route traversing left. Take care as some of the bolts are on loose rock.

Fun slabby route that finishes under the tree.

A cool feature of not too hard climbing. follow the Z and exit up to the left.