Routes as sport in Kenya

Fully bolted. Start on slab below first bolt. Move straight up to anchors. First section is tricky and technical to a large block. Climbing past this block is the crux, with different methods better suiting different heights of climber: either go straight up on poor crimps before moving right, or get a heel-lock and toe-jam in place either side of the block and reach straight for a small but positive crimp up and right. Finish on small crimps to top. Grade subject to debate, bu last 3 people to climb the route suggested 7b+ as the grade so that will be kept for now. FA and date unknown.

Start as for Allegro. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. At right- hand end ascend wall direct to finish.

Originally climbed in order to show a visiting continental party that small wires can fake you a long way, and bolts are not always necessary. Ironically the Hot Rock team didn't know this had been climbed on wires and accidentally bolted it. It is important to climb this route the correct way and not cheat leftwards only the Finis jugs. Because of this some might say it's a little forced, but this does not detract from the experience. The climb Finis ascends the jug-covered wall 1-2m right of the main corner. This superb route climbs the steep face some 3m right of corner. Start from ledge system some 4.5m up from base of cliff. Some 4m right of corner there are two obvious scoops and the climb starts between them. Up on small holds 6m to prominent overlap. Step right and climb direct to welcoming jug. Straight up on better holds to top. On trad gear originally graded E1 5a. With bolts the sport grade applies.

To the right of The Moronic Inferno. Crux between the forth and fifth bolts.

This used to be an aid route called Soliloquy. In an incredible piece of climbing, Herve Sergeraert slowly whittled down the aid, and finally led it completely free. Many bolts and pegs were used on the original aid ascent, and since these still remain, the route is essentially "sport climb". However, beware some of the pegs as they a rusty and mobile. It used to be probably the most difficult route at Lukenya, although now it has been surpassed by a handful of other lines in Nemesis, Egyptian Crag and Gumshoe itself. In the centre of the main overhang is an obvious groove and crack beginning at 40'. Start 10' right of the groove and climb with dignity. The second half has lichens, making the on sight more rewarding...

Not in either guidebook - from Alex Anderson website? Maybe in a bulletin

On the left side of the cliff on the brown/orange wall. Up the prow, moving right to the finish. The crux moves between the second and third bolt is as good as any 3* boulder problem in Lukenya. As of 28 Feb 2021 there is no anchor, so either top out or make an extended rope anchor from the tree at the top of the crag.

Currently the hardest route in Lukenya and one of the highest quality routes I have ever bolted.

Start on the far left end of the cliff under the obvious right-rising traverse. Work through the traverse culminating on a hard move to a good rest jug. Chalk up and prepare for the V7 crux through steep terrain to perfect jugs above.

Route to the right of Banana Cheeks. Sparsely bolted with very hard crux in the middle. Not known if it has been climbed or who put it up.

Named after two women who keep the route opener on his toes. To the left of a small tree is a thin crack that trends leftwards, finishing left and up of the last bolt (anchor hidden behind a small ledge over the overhang. A steep route that has a sting in its tail.

Beautiful route between Nemesis and Twisted Sisters, with interesting but pumpy moves and one decent rest. Now has new anchor bolts installed. In memory of Jason Spindler!

Between Jason's route and KL. An excellent, steep, juggy climb. Pumpy, but not as hard as it looks. A lovely route.

Fun line up the black streak between Nemesis and KL corner. Stay strong through the crux low down to finish on easier, fun climbing to the top. Found, FA'd and named by two strong young brothers!

On the right face, to the left of the obvious scoop used in Turbulence and As Good As It Gets, is a thin crack that slants up to the left. Very technical moves past the third bolt.

This route starts in the same hole as the start of Turbulence and As Good as it Gets, but goes left and straight up from the hole. The crux comes between the second and third bolts, with the route then going straight up, cutting through a shared bolt on Turbulence through some big moves through the overhang directly above.

Start 6 m right of K.L. Corner, move up into a scoop and then after passing the second bolt, move straight up and then left below an overhang, which is pushed through before reaching Happy Birthday Piers Wood. Keep going past the third bolt, even if you're pumped.

Same start into the scoop as Turbulence, but at the second bolt keep moving rightwards and up. A beautiful route.

The much harder direct start to As Good as it Gets. Crimpy, cruxy moves straight up until you join up with the easier ground of the top half of As Good as it Gets.

Immediately to the left of Leap of Faith. Very crimpy start to the first bolt, easier ground after that.

Start about 6m right of As Good As It Gets, leap for first hold (or opt for a stylish start if you can!) and then up into scoop. Move up leftwards, then direct to finish.

To the immediate right of Leap of Faith. Slightly tricky and crimpy start, then lovely moves through the middle section. Keep your nerve through the slabby run-out after the last bolt.

Start about 5 feet to the right of a flake-like boulder that is separated from the main face. Move up and left to the crux at the second bolt showing faith in friction. After that, left into a scoop and then up to rail. After the last bolt there is about a 5 metre run-out to the anchors, up and left on easy ground but potentially scary and dangerous for beginners.

The easiest route on Nemesis, located round the corner at the right-hand side of the crag. Slightly slabby start up to good jugs to the top. Try not to pull too hard on the flakes!

The last bolted climb to the right of the crag, round the corner. Climb the first few meters of the slab, then step left and straight up the route with the crux of the moves coming after 10m of climbing. Multiple options for holds enable climbers to finish it in various different ways. Be gentle with the flakes.

The first sport route on the left. Begin up an easy slab to steeper terrain. Somewhat runout.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. Currently (1/25/20) no anchor but it's possible to traverse right to an anchor.

The second bolted route. Begin up a tricky slab to great holds. Through an easy slab to a short steep section and a lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

Start under the obvious scoop of rock with a high first bolt. Continuous and fun with some runouts.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is also a new lower-off anchor.

A quick mantle leads to an easy slab and a perfect steep upper section just left of the tree. Lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

Just left of where the middle vegetation starts. Similar to the last climb, mantle to an easy slab and finish up on steep holds, ending to the right of the tree. Lower-off anchor.

A Steep romp up perfect jugs to a lower-off anchor.

A difficult start that can be avoided if traversing from the right. From here, work up easier terrain to a stance below the face. A final tricky section lies in wait at the top!

One of the original lines, rebolted in 2020.

A few variations possible, but hardest and most interesting is straight up a thinner start under the first bolt.

One of the original lines. Work up to a first bolt through one of a few variations to start. Hardest and most interesting variation is to go direct up the slab (4c is for this direct variation).

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is a new bolted anchor.

Sure to be a classic. Work up the easy slab to good holds. From here swim up perfect jugs through the steep upper section to a two-bolt anchor.

Start up a tricky slab to a stance before tackling a few more hard moves to reach the third bolt. From here, romp up better holds on steeper terrain to the anchor.

FA and grade unknown, but there is a bolted line with bolted anchor traversing up and left from the right-hand side of the overhang. Looks hard, if you climb it or have information on it please get in touch with the MCK!

Ian Howell's 60th birthday present from MCK! This super little route is a rare commodity at Frog - a relatively easy sport climb. Start on left side of small buttress below an obvious horizontal flake/hold at 5'. Climb straight up over 4 bolts.

Historic route number: 2a

First bolt shared with 'Legends Of The Fall', then head left.

The name is probably recorded in the New Climbs book.

This route is a pure sport climb past eight bolts, and takes the imposing wall immediately right of 'Thick and Thin'. A strenuous hard start leads to a ledge on a grey block at 12'. Easier climbing leads up rightwards to a small bulge below a groove on right side of wall. The groove gets harder and harder until a crux step left is made to a good 'letter-box' hold on the left wall. Two strenuous moves above lead to easier climbing up into a recess. Step right and finish up rightwards.

Historic route number: 3a

First 3(?) bolts shared with 'Legends Of The Fall', then head right.

The name is probably recorded in the New Climbs book.

An excellent sport climb. Start at the steep boss of rock between 'Trader Horn' and 'Aquarius'. Climb directly up past 3 bolts to the overhang. Surmount this direct past a 4th bolt and on to finish.

Historic route number: 38

Not just one of the best climbs at Frog, this could be one of the best in the country. A pure sport climb with 10 bolts. It is a route of great character with a bold finish. Start some 50' right of 'Nuclear Arms', where two closely placed bolts protect the first difficult wall. Climb this to a sapling below obvious 'ear'. Move up the 'ear' to crux move at the top which leads to hard step left onto easier ground. Two moves left to arete which is followed up to the 'magic block'. Undercling right around this then climb crack to its top. Swing out left and up to finish.

Historic route number: 62a

A sport climb with 6 bolts. Take a small SLCD and 3 small nuts. Start 12' right of 'Naked Edge'. Up wall past bolt to horizontal break, (small SLCD). Up left to hollow and over bulge. Move up rightwards to arete and sloping ledge (hard). Climb bulge above moving left at very top.

Historic route number: 70a

Hike to the base of the cliff (you can either go around the slabs to the left, or solo up). There's an easy way which takes about 20 minutes from the campsite, ask someone to show you (GPS track as of December 2019: http://tinyurl.com/wcnx8ya)

Fish’s 40th birthday present. The rock is solid with excellent friction but sharp. As it hasn't seen much traffic yet, take a helmet.

1. 35 meters. Starting at the belay anchor (two bolts) at the top of the easy slabs, up and then leftwards to a grassy ledge with the anchor on its right. Mantle no.1 onto the ledge.

2. 30 meters. Traverse right from the ledge then follow the bolts to an anchor on a slab. Mantle no.2 around the 5th bolt. Beware of the loose flake after this, don’t pull too hard on it.

3. 20 meters. Straight up to the slight overhang, Mantle No.3, then traverse a few meters leftwards to find an anchor on the arrete.

4. 30 meters. Up the arete and then traverse right past a big block (mantle on this if you feel like) resting on the slab. The anchor bolts are on the giant boulder.

Bring 11 quickdraws + biners for the anchors.

You can abseil down the route with a 60m rope (don't forget knots as some of the abseils are nearly exactly 30m). You can also walk down (climber's left after going behind the huge rock).

A well bolted slabby sport route up the path of least resistance up the wall. Friable face holds may make the route easier or harder as the route cleans up. Bolted anchors without rap rings, due to the slabby nature of the route, tufts of grass, and flakes it is not advisable to rappel the route. Bring around 12 quickdraws and material for bolted anchor building. Watch for loose rock

1. 20m Start at a scoop of rock on a slabby buttress on the right side of the wall 5.7

2. 30m Continue up the slab with delicate movements past tufts of grass 5.7

3. 30m Meander up the slab as the steepness backs off and starts to form a large sloping ledge, be careful of loose rock 5.5

4. 20m From the belay climb the steeper rock through insecure slab climbing. a cruxy move or two brings you to a small perch 5.8+

5. 40m Continue up the steep slab as the angle gradually wears off to a set of bolts by a large boulder 5.8

Walk off descent to climbers left

Start to the right of the tree. Using the tree is cheating but you can use the flake on the ground for your feed. Pull up then climb up the big holes and finish rightwards to a lower-off.

Up the left side of the rightmost slab.

1. This route starts on the left toe of the large formation and heads up the path of least resistance to a good stance on a big ledge above the Guano Chimney.

2. A second pitch up a steeper section leads to anchors on top.

Work up a few tricky moves to a stance at the second bolt. From here power endurance and pinch strength leads through various cruxes to reach a powerful undercling finish and a lower-off anchor. (Bolted by Kris Fiore/Fish. Awaits an FA!)

A short sport climb that needs cleaning. Not clear where the route goes at the second bolt, you can either traverse back left from the ledge, or skip the bolt going straight up the slab.

Long sport route traversing left. Take care as some of the bolts are on loose rock.

Fun slabby route that finishes under the tree.

Nice sport route with some steep moves.

Fingery sport route

This is a 15 bolt sport route on the SW arete of the Mouse.

A good warmup for what the Temple has to offer. The route is short enough to be a high boulder problem though the landing would make for a devastating fall. Thus 'The Ololokwe Golf Club' took it upon themselves to make it a short and sweet sport climb.

Hard route on the left of the big boulder at Baboon Cliff (to the left of New Home for Nkulupa). Very bouldery, overhanging start before tricky, blank slab climbing.

Named in honour of the black scorpion hiding behind a big flake pulled off the route. Fun, varied vertical climbing with a sting in its tail! On the big rock perpendicular to Baboon Cliff proper.

Furthest left climb on the main wall of baboon cliff. Fun moves with two cruxes at the third and fourth bolt and then again at the final overhang.

2nd route from the left on the main wall. Powerful, bouldery start to establish yourself on the first ledge, before some technical moves until above the 4th bolt. More mellow middle section before the final, tricky overhang before the anchors. Take care - there may still be a couple of loose flakes.

To the left of modern warrior, route bolted by Kristofer Fiore. Not sure about difficulty

Longest route at baboon cliff. The opening 10-15m are the crux, with tricky slab climbing on small edges up to a ledge. Then mellower slab to a huge ledge, before the final fun moves up a detached boulder to the anchor.

Crux at the end. Shares anchor with No Hurry in Kenya

Extended crux at the end with some delicate, technical moves on small holds. Shares anchor with Twende

Follow bolts directly, with crux in the dark section at the top. Becomes 5c if you move left of the bolts at the crux

Fairly consistent, moderate slab climbing, with a few delicate moves in the upper section

Crux at blank section around 5th bolt

Shorter climb on far right with higher start in chimney and anchor sitting lower down.

Locate this route 12 meters to the right of the dead tree up on a ledge.

This awesome two-pitch sport route takes you to a large grassy ledge at the top of the cliff. Pitch 1 is the crux and it's over quick.

1. Boulder up through a tough section to bigger holds on steep terrain. Once through the initial difficulty, gain the slab above to a second steep section with fun sloping holds to an excellent belay cave. 30m

2. Tackle the awesome chimney until it's possible to pull right onto the face. Exposed climbing gains easier slab above. Trend to the right to a second two-bolt anchor.

Short, punchy route, with some fun laybacking to an overhanging finish. Slopey holds at the top require you to keep cool and find the best spots and body positions for the clips. The furthest right on the crag.

Bolted top-down and holds chipped. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP03/climbing-note-jeran

A sport route, possibly without top anchors. Beware of peeling flakes.