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Berdorf

  • Grade context: FR
  • Approach time: 15 minutes
  • Photos: 19
  • Ascents: 1,309

Seasonality

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Summary

An excellent but small sandstone crag in Luxembourg, close to the German border. Often crowded on sunny weekends.

Description

The "Wanterbaach" crag in Berdorf, Luxembourg offers excellent climbing on sandstone. There are about 150 routes in total with the majority of popular routes being 20 to 30 meters long and graded 5c to 7b. Most of the routes are well protected with glue-in bolts. Gear: 60 m rope, 15 quickdraws.

Crowds: Berdorf is usually very busy on sunny weekends, during school holidays of the surrounding countries, on Luxembourgish bank holidays, etc. An impression of how busy it gets: https://youtu.be/0mTddAKFeLw

The classic climbs start at 5c and the grading can feel hard if you're not used to the sandstone and because some popular routes have a though start. Climbers comfortable in the 6c to 7a range, will find the most 3 star routes to choose from. With 20 routes in the 7c to 8c range, Berdorf is attractive to pros too.

As a guideline for climbers who are just starting out: You'll probably have the most fun if you're able to lead 6a to 6b indoors. The routes graded easier than 5b are oftentimes intimidating, very short, or not enjoyable because of ropedrag.

The guidebook "Climbing in Berdorf, 2nd Edition" is available at the campsite "Martbusch", other places in town and online.

Access issues

To be allowed to climb here, you need to be member of a climbing federation which is part of the UIAA or IFSC. Such as the FLERA, DAV, [...].

Approach

From "Martbusch" camping site, walk towards the end of the road. Keep and turn right at the end of the road. Now in the forest, continue walking for some minutes until you see decending stairs to your left. These lead into the crag.

Where to stay

There are two campsites in Berdorf: "Belle Vue 2000" and "Martbusch". Both are popular with climbers. If you're looking for more comfort, the "Trail Inn" is also very close to the climbing.

Ethic

Chalk: Tolerated. Try climbing without chalk when you're below your limit. Done with a route where you used a lot of chalk? Use a brush!

Tags

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Isatis Sector
20
86
25m
Gentiane Sector
14
199
26m
Bleausard Sector
11
127
22m
Remoise Sector
13
82
20m
S.I.P. Sector
9
58
11m
Sisyphe Sector
11
25
18m
Minimops Sector
4
40
26m
Tempête Sector
10
76
19m
Nikita Sector
21
69
24m
1
Was Not Was Sector
15
145
27m
Infernale Sector
20
103
20m
Closed Wildenauer Sector
5
0

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Activity

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