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Assam Tower West

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 5

Access: COVID-19: Lockdown

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Created 6 weeks ago

Seasonality

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Summary

These climbs are in the shade in the morning until 10am.

Description

Here you can find some of the easiest climbs in the area - slabs. The multipitch routes are for the adventure seeker. Look at the topo to locate the abseil points as the belay stations don't always work well for abseiling.

Access issues inherited from Bako National Park

The park is operated by Sarawak Forestry Corporation, which presently does not allow rock climbing due to lack of mountain rescue service. Contact Alexander Hölke for a case-by-case agreement with the park management if you plan a climbing trip there. For the multi-pitch route make sure you know what you are doing – you must be able to get back down to the beach by yourself. Bouldering is generally tolerated.

Ethic inherited from Bako National Park

Sports Climbing with an adventurous note. All climbs are equipped with long shaft (200mm) titanium glue-in bolts. The sandstone is soft and somewhat brittle. Abseil and lower-off points have Ti rings tied with slings to the bolts - it is advised to bring spare slings along for renewal.

History

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The Access Route was climbed technically after placing a temporary expansion bolt in 2013. Getting to the top requied an unusual jump across a crevasse, now P3 of Sandstone Wonderland.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 6b+ 20m
2 5c 10m
  1. 20m (6b+) From the rocky base climb up the leftmost wall to a ledge to the double bolt belay station.

  2. 10m (5c) Up the arete to join P2 of Sandstone Wonderland.

From here either find the Abseil point further up and right, or follow P3 of Sandstone Wonderland to the summit.

FA: Alexander Hölke, Sep 2016

Starts at the rocky base up large holds to the ledge in into the chimney. Climb finishes on top of the chimney on the platform (anchor). This anchor is suitable for toproping.

FA: Alexander Hölke, Apr 2016

1 6a 20m
2 5c 20m
3 6a 20m
  1. 20m (6a) Start at the rocky base up the large holds and slabs to a platform. Climb up the wall to the first belay station. To your left is an Abseil Point.

  2. 20m (5c) Walk to the back wall, step over the crevice and traverse left past some bolts then climb up to a ledge then further up to the second belay station. To your right is another Abseil Point if you need to come dowm.

  3. 20m (6a) Walk over the plateau towards the main summit till you reach the abyss. Jump over (Saxony jump grade S1) and scramble through the bushes to a wall. Climb past 2 bolts to the 3rd belay station (6a). Walk to the summit plateau.

Abseiling you have 3 options:

  • 3 pitches down East Face, from the top out anchor near the edge,
  • back down your last pitch into the abyss, then through to bushes to the Abseil Point near the 1st belay.
  • find the Abseil point at the west, at 40m you need 2 ropes.

FA: Noh Muhammad, Aug 2013

FA: Damien Su, Sep 2014

FA: Soh, Jun 2015

Starts to the right of Sandstone Wonderland, you need to steo down from the rocky platform to the sandy beach. Climb up the leaning wall to the platform. Shares the anchor with Bako Squeeze.

FA: Alexander Hölke, Jun 2015

Climb up the prominent slightly leaning face further to the right up on the beach.

FA: Noh Muhammad, Sep 2014

The following routes are accessible by going through the Bako Squeeze chimney and then through the bushes up and right, or by climbing up the 1st pitch of Sandstone Wonderland and then walking to the right.

Scramble up on top of a pillar then clip slings to step up on gain the 1st bolt. Then climb the slab past 2 more bolts and built and anchor using the small trees. Either continue up the last pitch of Sandstone Wonderland or find he Abseil Point facing West.

FA: Noh Muhammad, Aug 2013

Starts at the big face to the right of Access Route. Not completed, one section needs cleaning an additional bolt placement. Also the top out gully is still dirty - it may be better to place a lower off anchor below. Crux is the overhanging wall difficulty about 6c+..7a.

Set by Alexander Hölke, Aug 2016

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