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Serian

  • Grade context: FR
  • Approach time: 5-10 min
  • Ascents: 5
  • Aka: Gunung Buros

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Created 10 weeks ago

Seasonality

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Summary

Great and dry wall with overhanging to vertical climbs and some beautiful features. There is potential for harder climbs 7c..8a - there are at least 3 more lines beween Wing Chung and Bolting Project.

Description

Gunong Buros is small but steep limestone mountain visible from the road. It is placed close to Kampong Bantang and Kampong Jenan.

Access issues

The mountain is located on the land of Kampong Jenan. Call the Kampong Chief (Babeh Meh Jen +60 82 89 5292) and let him know you want to climb there. He speaks Malay and Bidayuh – but not English.

Be careful not to step on the crops. The land belongs to Maynet Lingong +60 13 805 8536. (The houses by the road belong to different people)

Approach

From Kuching drive south towards Serian. After about 45km turn right following the signs to Kampung Taee, there are some shops at this intersection. Follow the road for 8km just past Kampung Bantang. There are two obvious rock face visible from the road. Buros is the smaller mountain to the left. Take the trail between the houses with small bamboo bridges aross several creeks.

The face is visible from the road and it is facing north-east. Specifically this means that during the dry season (June) only after 3pm there is shade, while in the wet season (December) it is in the shade from 11am. Best time to climb is Oct-Nov after 12pm, when the heavy rains haven’t come yet and at the same time the sun is not hitting the wall for most of the day any more.

Where to stay

Most people stay in Kuching and go for a day trip.

Ethic

Sports climbing. Stainless steel bolts only, preferably glue-ins.

History

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Discovered in 2011. Development was sponsored by Alexander Hölke with a lot of help from Noh Muhammad. Unfortunately the wall sees almost no traffic.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the obvious dehedral at the left end of the wall starting at a right-leaning crack. Dry from May-Oct. Has one non-stainless expansion bolt which was never replaced.

Set by Andy Popye, Jan 2012

FA: Yi Chuan, Jan 2012

Straight up some tufa to the overhanging wall. From the ledge go to the anchor of the next route project. Note that the start (tufa) is dry only from July to September only. Grade suggestion is definitely harder than 7c.

Set by Andy Popeye, Jan 2012

Looks fingery. Shares the anchor with the bolted project to the left.

Set by Noh Muhammad & Alexander Hölke

Interesting and unusual climbing on limestone. Harder than it looks. Climb/stem up a few meters into the obvious chimney, which is open at the bottom. Chimney along horizontally out to the main face while it gets tighter. When you feel stuck move out of the chimney/offwidth into the overhanging wall. Climb the crack and later the face to the anchor. It is a good idea to clip stick the first bolt as the first meters are of lower rock quality.

Set by Noh Muhamman & Alexander Hölke, 2011

FA: Noh Muhammad, Jul 2011

Starts at the left hand side of a small cave then traverses left over to some pockets and holds. Then do the dyno and continue up the face/tufas to the anchor. Grade suggestion >7c

Set by Alexander Hölke & Noh Muhammad, 2011

Starts at the right hand side of a small cave. Climb up the steep overhanging crack to the space beween two large stalagtites and a ledge above. Continue up the overhanging white wall to the anchor. Not recommended during the wet season (Nov-April) as the stalagtites are wet.

FA: Alexander Hölke, Sep 2011

This climb looks harder than it is. It is close to the right end of the wall.

Start at the same obvious dihedral as "Ow! Ow!" but step over to the left. Stem up to the ledge on top of the big stalactite. Avoid the roof by staying right, then climb left to a second ledge. More stemming gets you to the anchor.

The name is for a girl who helped us to clean the route.

Set by Alexander Hölke, Noh Muhammad & Ateng Safardi, 2011

FA: Ateng Safardi, Aug 2011

Climb the obvious dihedral past 3 bolts to the ledge, then stay left climbing up the slightly overhanging wall with large pockets to the anchor.

The name is from some strange pain Noh experienced while checking out the route on toprope.

Set by Noh Muhammad & Alexander Hölke

FA: Noh Muhammad, Apr 2011

1 5c 8m
2 6b 12m
  1. 8m (5c) Climb up the dihedral of Ow! Ow! to the ledge and put a sling around the large tufa as belay anchor.

  2. 12m (6b) Climb up the tufa, out over the roof (crux) and finish inside the chimney to the anchor.

FA: Alexander Hölke, Apr 2011

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