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Description

Extensive recent bolting has meant that much of the beta listed here is significantly out of date (except for Rutsch Nach Retschs, Make Takun Great Again, 2000 Steps, Mediocracy, Viserion, and Camino Real)

Access issues inherited from Bukit Takun

The Bukit Takun outcrop access is through a private housing estate. Although residents tolerate access to the crag for climbers, please do not jeopardise this by leaving the area before sunset.

Sign-in with the guard, at the guardhouse & inform if you intend to be leaving late. If you intend to take on multi-pitch routes ensure you are fully prepared, keep an eye on the time, and stick to turn back times.

Leaving in the dark may cause undue panic to the locals, which can make crag access harder in the future.

Ethic inherited from Bukit Takun

Please leave the area by sunset as not to jeopardise continued access. (Torches are recommended in case of emergency, but please make every effort to leave by sunset).

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1 5c+
2 6c
3 5c+
4 6a
5 5a
6 6a+
7 6a

This fabulous 7 pitch route starts down to the left of big hole and runs up three pitches to a roof, traverses left for the fourth pitch, then goes all the way up a further three pitches to the summit. Bolted all the way, need at least 12 draws (recommend 2 alpine), plus two 60m ropes. All anchors have fixed biners. Recommend rappel pitch 7, then 6+5 together, then the rest in a single go from the top of pitch 4. The crux pitch is a 6c with powerful overhung moves, but has some fixed gear to help french aid if needed.

Set by patrick andre & alex orr, 1 Dec 2016

FFA: patrick andre & alex orr, 4 Dec 2016

FA: patrick andre & alex orr, 4 Dec 2016

Starts at The Eye level two bolt anchor left do big hole. Has Ram’s Horns at the anchor.

Balance. Start and belay from the hole. There is safety anchor for belaying.

Set by Patrick Andrey

Pumpy start and boulder problem just before finish.Right of the hole.

Set by Patrick Andrey, Vladimir Mu & Sal

FA: Alex Orr, 26 Mar 2017

1 6b+
2 6b+
1 6a+
2 5

FA: S Brown & M Santo, 1998

1 7b+
2 6c+
3 7b+
4 6b+
5 6a+
6 7a
1 5b+
2 6a

Set by Patrick Andrey

FFA: Ana Maria Sanchez & Patrick Andrey, 5 Mar 2017

1 6b
2 6a+
3 5c+
4 6a+
5 5b+
6 5c
1 5b
2 5c
3 5c
4 6c

Begins on the ledge at the right of the big hole. Route goes up and left under the roof past the stalactites to a stance. Second pitch runs up and traverses right to a second stance. Third pitch can go up for a 5c or variant further right for a 6a which both converge at the same stance. The 4th pitch goes straight up the offwidth (excellent climbing) and the crux is easily avoided by swinging on the second bolt, reducing the grade or 5c(A0). The entire route is overhung and stays dry, but requires back-clipping to rappel the last pitch. With twin 60m ropes it is possible to rap directly to the ground from the top of the 3rd pitch .

Set by Patrick Andre & Alex, 1 Oct 2016

1 5c
2 6a
3 6b

FA: D Estey & G Hustinx, 1997

FA: D Estey & Matthew, 1998

1 5b+
2 6a
3 5b+
4 5c+

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