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Description

Selamat Datang ke Bukit Takun. Featuring some of the oldest routes in Bukit Takun, many of the routes here are trad routes. The top of the Campground sector is also the starting point for the scrabble to the summit of Bukit Takun. To get to the summit, follow the painted arrows on the scramble to the top.

Access issues inherited from Bukit Takun

The Bukit Takun outcrop access is through a private housing estate. Although residents tolerate access to the crag for climbers, please do not jeopardise this by leaving the area before sunset.

Sign-in with the guard, at the guardhouse & inform if you intend to be leaving late. If you intend to take on multi-pitch routes ensure you are fully prepared, keep an eye on the time, and stick to turn back times.

Leaving in the dark may cause undue panic to the locals, which can make crag access harder in the future.

Approach

After the last villa on the private road, take the trail right and head up the steep slope. Once reach granite base, continue up and round follow the cliff around until reach the saddle.

Ethic inherited from Bukit Takun

Please leave the area by sunset as not to jeopardise continued access. (Torches are recommended in case of emergency, but please make every effort to leave by sunset).

Routes

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Grade Route

Atomic Arms is an old classic of the pioneer days of Malaysian climbing. This route has seen a rebolting process around 20 years ago when the old philips insert bolts got replaced by expansion anchors. However, most of those expansion bolts were beyond expiry date, some of them seriously rusted. With respect to the historical significance of this awesome line and fitting to the name we used titanium bolts and a titanium rams horn for the upgrade. We also managed to remove the old piton, which was placed a bit off line. There is still a weird hexagon bolt hammered into a hole, which we could not remove ( we will need to grind it off). We decided to place the bolts a bit differently to avoid the strenuous clip at the 3rd ( former ) bolt, which per se made it to be the crux. Now the climbing and protection is a bit more straight forward with a bit a longer run out though. The route is a true marvel and features some of the hardest limestone on this planet ( it took one full battery to drill the anchor!)

Easily identified by the painted sign at the base of the climb. Bolted anchors at the first stance, and bolted anchors at the top.

1 5c 14m
2 5c 20m

Right hand side of the wall. Runs up into the chimney (follow the old pitons) then left onto a stance. From there goes straight up to the crack that runs up the right side of the face all the way to the tree at the top. Requires friends and threads and has good protection.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Camp Ground.