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Ċikka Mostly Trad climbing 20 routes in sector

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 7
20
FR
1b1c+2b2c+3b3c+4b4c+5b5c+6a+6b+6c+7a+7b+7c+8a+

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

A large cave at the mouth of the valley, characterised by a crescent shaped hole in its left side and with solid buttresses either side. The first route is on the first buttress right of the descent.

Access issues inherited from Repubblika ta’ Malta

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Ethic inherited from Victoria Lines

As with most of Malta bolting is discouraged, a few exceptions are allowed

  1. As rap points, and

  2. where ground strikes are likely

but otherwise there are enough points to place gear

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
{UK} VD Look Out Wall Trad 9m

Virtually any line up the buttress.

2
{UK} MS 4b Look out chimney Trad 9m

The chimney to the right pulling out left past a flake at the top

3
{UK} HVS 5a Landover Trad 10m

A direct line over the root capping the chimney. Very escapable.

4
{UK} D Fall Out Wall Trad 15m

The next buttress right. Vegetated.

5
{UK} MS 4b Look C Chimney Trad 10m

The next chimney on the right

6
{UK} M Tin Can Alley Trad 13m

The wall, getting harder the further right you go.

7
{UK} HVS 5a ★★★ Unknown Soldier Trad 10m

The lefthand rim of the cave, past good threads

8
{UK} E2 5c ★ Ċikka Trad 10m

Leg jam the crescent then pray as you reach for the distant flat hold above its lip. pull out leftwards.

9
{UK} E2 6a ★★ Cicciolina Trad 10m

Up the crescent but reach for the rat-hole and exist direct

10
{UK} E5 6b/c ★★ Ċikku Trad 10m

A crucifixion just right of the crescent. Span minimalist tufas and visualise a long reach to underclings. The rest is easy by comparison. The grade is hight dependent.

11
{UK} E3 5c ★★ Custer's Last Stand Trad 10m

A line out of the back of the righthand niche of the cave. Climb the black righthand crevasse to the roof, traverse right under the roof, pull out on widely spaced jugs past a hole.

12
{UK} E2 6a The Cavalry Trad 10m

The bulge just right, then a black streak in a corner scoop.

13
{UK} S 4b Fig Leaf Arete Trad 15m

The right edge of the cave stepping right from the cave to gain the upper arete

14
{UK} S 4a Fig Leaf Buttress Trad 15m

A line right of the cave mouth with a traverse right to a scoop and easy finish

15
{UK} E2 5c Wham Bam Trad 18m

The center of the wall between two recesses. Trend right past a hole and T then up the arete to finish.

16
{UK} HVS 5a With Love From Room 109 at the Islander Trad 18m

The righthand edge of the second smaller recess, trending left u pthe corner buttress.

17
{UK} HS 4a ★★★ Flake Wall Trad 18m

The groove into a recess, then skirt the top bulge.

18
{UK} VS 4c ★★ Maquis Trad 18m

Just right of the groove past a good (T). Take the bulge direct.

19
{UK} VS 4c ★ Mamba Trad 15m

The crack and groove 1m right

20
{UK} E1 5B ★★ Wafer Wall Boulder 8m

Boulder up the lefthand edge of the hollow on small, positive holds

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Sport Climbing in Malta and Gozo Guidebook

Author(s): Simon Alden, Jeffery Camilleri, and Stevie Hasten

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9789995706197

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found on the Maltese Islands of Malta and Gozo, covering 21 crags and over 500 fully bolted sport routes, across a wide range of grades up to F8c+.

Buy
ⓘ
Malta Rock Climbing

Author(s): J. Codling, A. Warrington & R. Abela

Date: 2022

Buy
ⓘ

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