Routes in Malta for selected grade

Take the central rib of the shallow orange cave. Move immediately left into and up a groove. Delicate, sharp and bold.

Clip in runners as you descend the lower section. 1st pitch on pockets veering leftwards and over the arete/bulge keeping to the left of the crack. 2nd pitch - straight up the crack into chimney ending. Can be climbed in 1 pitch.

Start from the ledge inside the chimney. Up the back for about 4m, move on to the right wall and make a slight traverse towards the sea until the middle of the wall. Go up and left above the chimney to a wedged boulder then vegetation to a ledge. Up the groove/crack to the top. Slings useful.

Start at the same point as Mad Hackers, move diagonally right past roof hole.

The right hand crack

The centre of the narrow wall

Starts off easy up to an overhanging crack. Continues along the crack line to a good handle over the ledge. The original ascent was graded E1 5A but due to new found great protection it was downgraded to HVS.

Has a badly protected start but continues smoothly up.

Climb to a small corner, over a small bulge and continue straight up.

A scarcely protected start but has nice finger holds throughout. Follows a left facing crack line from the middle of the climb.

1 - 50m 5a. Climb the shallow groove just right of the overhangs. At the black bulge step left then traverse left across black slabs to solid, curvy rock on the arete. Up this sensationally for 10m. Step left around the arete with your hands level with a shelf. Once round step back right to the arete above. Avoid the bulge by another step left. Up sharp grey slabs to a ledge. 2 - 20m 4a. Up easy grey slabs to the terrace above Pilar Box Descent

Starts 35m along a shelf to the right of the buttress edge with a window in below a slabby wall and just right of a grassy ledge.

1 - 20m 5a. Up the easy grey slab, then take the short steeper wall up left to a narrow ledge and the 2 piton belay on WYWH.

2 - 32m 5a. Skirt to the right of the bulging wall keeping just left of the vegetation until moves up and right gain a vegetated alcove below a small roof. Threads left and right. Move right above the roff then back left on black rock (spike runners), until below a blind crack and fault leading diagonally left. Follow this and the wall above keeping right of a short vegetated corner. Step left to a stance at the top of the pillar above the prow.

3 - 20m 4b. Diagonally right up slabs to (threads) above the ledge.

The leftmost route starts on the big flake and then becomes easier (some walking in the middle).Two cruxes, low and high

Same start as Double Trouble, but after the lower part moves slightly right and on to an easy but enjoyable finish

Start 2 meters right of John Graham, past the roof, follow the crack then up

Continue from the top of the leaning block to another vegetated ledge. Move right along this to a niche then delicately left towards a scoop. Up the overlap to finish.

Rock is flaky on the thin part and hard to protect. R rating for a potential fall onto the ledge below. Take care.

From the floor of the orange cave, left of the central pillar, layback a steep crack to a ledge and good spike runner. Move right to the top of a corner crack then up to a ledge and finish up the short leaning wall on the right.

Steep climbing up the scoop in the left wall of the large cave.

A thin line up the left rib of the central pillar via a small spike

Start inside the smaller cave. Climb the left wall and into the powdery scoops trending right past a thread. Exit the overhang at the apex of the cave.

Just left, a slab lies against the cliff. From the top of this slab climb boldly up the horizontal break then finish up the left hand side of the slab that breaks the skyline overhangs.

Follow the rib just left, finishing direct over the bulge above.

Follow the line straight up between Way of the Dragon and Pastizzi connection.

Climb the central pillar directly

Starting in the corner, climb the crack keeping left of the cave

TFrom the back of the cave climb the rusty wall to a left-slanting crack and through the V-gap to finish

The leaning right hand pillar of the cave. Start inside the cave trending right to pass a horizontal crack at half-height

The vague groove just to the right passing a good thread. Finish left up a crack

The wall right, passing a scoop

Climb the back of the large bubbly brown cave starting at the diagonal crack. Up left past a thread to exit left of the hole on good jugs. Pumpy

Gain the concrete chimney from below, climb the right edge of the top chimney then swing right to finish up the wall.

The short technical corner just right to a difficult "pull out" onto the upper slab. Finish as for previous route.

Wide bridging directly up the scoop to a steep and powerful pull-out at the top.

150m further uphill (downstream) just beneath the defensive wall, is a hidden bay with a low cave in the back of it. Some good bouldering areas around the cave.

For this route Start at the back of the vegetated bay. Pull up right of a black streak and past a thread.

A direct line over the root capping the chimney. Very escapable.

The lefthand rim of the cave, past good threads

The righthand edge of the second smaller recess, trending left u pthe corner buttress.

The groove left of the black streak, passing a large hole

The scoop right of the black streak, pulling out right to exit strenuously over the roof