Help

La Escuelita

  • Grade context: US
  • Approach time: 1-3 mins
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 23

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

A small 5-10 m high volcanic rock crag right at the side of CU Pumas Stadium, this crag features numerous small sport and trad climbs. Grades go from 5.9 to about 5.12+

Description

See "Unique Features and Strengths" - also if you've been there and know the names and grades of the climbs, please add them! I did a lot of routes, but did not know the names or grades of most of them (the ones I have submitted I am almost sure of, but please correct if needed!), so help is required here! Lots of climbs yet to be posted...

Access issues

Drive to the CU Pumas UNAM stadium on the south of the city (take avenida de los Insurgentes Sur in the southern direction until you see the stadium on your right, which is where you exit) and go around it until you see on your LHS the rocks (some trees are in front of them). You can park right there if it's Saturday or Sunday, but on weekdays park in the next block on your LHS.

Approach

See "Access"

Where to stay

As of early 2012: do not camp there, very insecure. Better to stay either in a hotel in the southern part of the city where you can also go to Los Dinamos which is a bigger area.

Ethic

No chipping, no breaking holds, no leaving your gear there for later, no littering, do not set up TR on the anchors, only on your gear.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Stand start just right of the tree in front of the rounded ledge with the drilled holes. Right hand goes to the good crimpy sidepull, left pinches the slopey pinch. To better identify, see http://vimeo.com/71474987 , they say it's V6/V7, but just to be safe, call it V6.

Same as Valiente, but don't use anything R of the tree! Watch out, no anchors!

Find the route by finding its name and difficulty written in chalk. It's just L of a tree. Punchy moves and delicate feet! 2 bolts+single bolt anchor.

3 bolts + anchors, look for the name + difficulty written in chalk at the bottom of the climb

LHV of "El Techito"- 3 bolts + anchors

3 bolts + anchors. A lot of fun! To find it, just read "El Techito" written in chalk on the bottom of the climb. Also, see pic!

Rightmost sport bolted route in "La Escuelita". 3 bolts + anchors. Scary start!

Start with the techy slab beginning in the good bulby steps. Grab the big slopey pinch underneath the rooflet with your right and reach for the sidepull edges with your left. Big powerful moves get you to the easy part.

Starts with a compression boulder problem to a good flake. From there, grab the slopey undercling and make a big move to the huge pocket. Very good.

Technical climbing in a dihedral leads to a powerful move to the "cyclops" hole, after which you have pumpy pocket pulling.

Starts with the steps to a techy slab to a dihedral with a big flat jug. Easy pocket pulling from there.

Derecha de Panzer

Como todas las rutas de la escuelita, el inicio es lo complicado

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in La Escuelita.