Alcocer Guide

Connecta la ruta de Alcocer free con la de Brown wall (Alcocer free y porkishead no tienen reunion)

Esta ruta no tiene la reunión (hay tornillos pero faltan los bolts y la cadena)

Warning Fixed Gear: Se rompió un bloqueo de la mano derecha, se cree que ahora es 12.c

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp hive warning

Warning Fixed Gear: Se eliminaron las Primeras dos placas

Starts on the south side of this pillar and heads straight up the orange, overhanging face. Don’t panic – it’s pumpy and overhanging, but there is always a beautiful jug right where you want it. Four bolts to the anchor on top. 14 meters.

Climb up the dark, featured rock to a huge ledge, then move to the steep orange face and climb up on thin, crimpy holds to the anchors. Five bolts. 14 meters.

Start at the base of the obvious narrow ridge and climb all the way to the top, staying on the arête. Anchors are on the face to the right. Five bolts. 15 meters.

Start 1.5 meters to the right of the arête and climb straight up the face. Requires some gymnastic moves and balanced postures. Finishes at the same anchors for Ambush Ridge. Four bolts. 15 meters.

Climbs up the obvious big dihedral on beautiful black rock to a ledge with a big tree. Sling the tree for protection then move up the wall on the right of the dihedral plugging cams all the way to anchors at the very top. Do NOT touch the huge chockstone! It moves and may come loose! 18 meters. GEAR: Cams to #3, slings.

Starts directly above the two intimidating huge barrel cactuses. Climb to the bolt and don’t fall or your saddle will never be the same. Ascend the crack then reach a bolt beneath the overhanging huge block. Surmount the block, clip another bolt, and mantle up to the anchors. Three bolts. 14 meters. GEAR: draws and a #1 cam for the crack.

Climb the arête of the pillar on steep, delicate holds through two bolts, then head up and left to a third bolt beneath the huge block. Head straight up through and onto the block and to the anchors. 14 meters. Four bolts. The first bolt is high, so most will plug a cam in the big crack to the right (#2 or #3 Camelot).

Climbs the crack and dihedral on the right side of the pillar. A 5.8 start leads to an alpinestyle scramble around the top of the pillar. This is the shortest path to top of the pillar. Best to lower or rap off the Train Robbers anchors. 15 meters. GEAR: Cams from .5” to 3”, a sling for a chockstone, & a hex or two.

Ascend the face just left of the obvious pillar, keeping on the face (no stemming out to the right!) and using the positive left-hand edge holds along the line of vegetation. Use good footwork on the tiny ledges to reach the overhang, then use the under-cling beneath the huge upper block (the “bell”) to reach up to clip the fourth bolt. Pull the overhang, finishing on the featured face to the huge, right-slanting ledge to the anchors. 5 bolts. 16 meters.

Ascend the pillar, then head up just right of the central dihedral (clipping bolts out to the left) directly towards the loose blocks wedged beneath the “bell” (these are the “ball” of the “mission bell”). Delicately move up onto the huge block, heading straight up to the anchors. 16 meters. 5 Bolts. One or two extended draws are useful.

Start on top of the small slab base and move up to the first bolt on some delicate, small crimps or pinches. Then head straight up, take a break beneath the “bell”, pull the overhang, and head slightly left to the chains at the top. 5 bolts. 15 meters. OPTION: Stay directly in line or to the right (not the left) of the final two bolts for a more difficult finish that goes approx. 5.11a.

Climb knobby pillar through three bolts then head up the slabby ridge around the right side of the huge hanging block, then trending left above to a bolt above the block (upper route A). Work left to another bolt then up the SE face of the upper headwall through two more bolts, finishing at anchors (two bolts and chains). Slightly run-out after the second bolt; can plug cams (#.75 to #2) in a small crack system if needed. 30 meters.

Climb the crack system up to and around the huge hanging block to a sloping ledge, then head straight up the central upper face (upper route B) placing creative gear, with the best placement being a thread you can sling midway up. GEAR: Brown tri-cam, a sling for the thread, and cams to plug in pockets (#1 and #3). If feeling a bit prodigal with your gear, you can clip the bolt above the hanging block with an extended sling before taking on the upper headwall. Finishes at same top anchor as Preacher Man (two bolts and chains). 30 meters.

Climb up steep face on crimpers (crux between bolts one and two) to a hand ledge up and left, then move up and slightly right to the big ledge with anchors (two bolts and chains). Move straight up the steep and thin pink ramp (upper route C), find a creative way to pull over onto the N face, then head up the juggy face to the top anchors (two bolts and chains). 30 meters.

Climb up the central crack for 5 meters, then sling knobs and horns all the way to the top. No anchor at top. Can build a trad anchor at the top for top rope or to bring up a second. Approx. 30 meters. Can also walk off the top. GEAR: Small to medium cams, slings.

Follows start of Pura Vida for three bolts then heads up and left to the fourth bolt, with a run-out to the top that can be protected by placing a #1 cam in the crack above. Ends at the same anchors for Pura Vida. 20 meters.

Climb up the line of five bolts to an anchor on a small ledge (two bolts and chains at the anchor). Can plug a small cam between bolt 4 and 5 for added protection if feeling the “pura vida”. 20 meters.

Climb straight up the dihedral, plugging gear in the dihedral’s crack, the step right to get over the large block, finishing with a brushy scramble to the top. No top anchors. Best to walk off. GEAR: cams and nuts. 25 meters.

Start at the base of the short, steep face 2 meters north of the dihedral and head straight up the arête, staying to the right along the edge, plugging gear where you can find it (it’s sparse but there when needed). Head up to the big block at the top, traverse up its left sloping edge, then plug a piece in the big dihedral and move to the anchors of Pura Vida. 25 meters. GEAR: Small cams up to #2, nuts, slings.

Start just right of the black dihedral, climbing the smooth rock on thin holds, straight up the arête thru four bolts to a small ledge for a short rest, then continuing up the arête thru four more bolts until it backs off to a ridge and runs out (can plug a cam) to the anchors (two bolts & chains) on top of the North Fin. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

Starts on the featured face four meters north of LA COLUMNA. Climb up to the featured short face to the ledge, stepping over the cactuses to get onto the upper wall staying two meters to the right of the arête, then directly up the overhanging face via jug holds, topping out at anchors on the North Fin. GEAR: Top rope for now – we plan to bolt this route. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

From the anchor on the ledge beneath the Fins climb up the vertical and overhanging bolt line toward the tip of the North Fin through five bolts, then up a short, low-angled ridge to the anchors at the top of the North Fin. 20 meters to anchors from ledge.

From the ledge beneath the Fins, climb the black dihedral at the north end of the ledge, stemming if needed, up to a small dirty ledge beneath a big chockstone. Go over the chockstone and into the wide chimney, finishing either up to the right to the anchors for SAMBA and DOCTOR LOVE or up and to the left to the anchors on the top of the North Fin. GEAR: Cams from #.5 to #3 and a small nut or two. 20 meters to anchors from ledge.

Starts just to the north of the bottom of the Fins, up easy ground to the first bolt, then up over a big step to a second bolt beneath a tiny cave. Climb up and left, following a crack system to the large, sloping ledge. Step up onto the ledge and toward the large chimney and chockstone above FRANKIE FOUR FINGERS, finishing the same as that route. GEAR: Cams from .5 to #1, a #3, and/or some medium nuts. Variation: Upon reaching the large sloping ledge, you can move to the right beneath the small roof, clip the bolt, and finish up through the roof as for DOCTOR LOVE. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

Climb through the first bolt of Samba, moving right to the obvious crack system. Ascend the cracks straight up, lying back off the big flake, then up to the sloping ledge to a bolt beneath the small roof. Move up and grab the big tongue of rock (Gene Simmons-sized) on the roof, puling the roof to a small ledge and another bolt. Step left and up the bulging rock onto the ridge and to the anchors (two bolts and chains). GEAR: small to medium sized cams and nuts. Save the #.75 for protecting the move to get over the roof. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

Starts just south of the obvious gully and heads up a slab to a bolt beneath the roof to the right. Step into the steep gully, plugging small cams, and head up to another bolt at top of the ridge, then climb over the big block . Sling huge boulders above for an anchor. 15 meters, two bolts. There are no bolted anchors at the top, so bring enough gear to build an anchor. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, slings.

Climb the big slab just right of the gully, up to a left-sloping ramp beneath a small overhang where the ramp ends. Then head straight up and slightly to the left, following the crack system that tops out between the gully and the huge vertical block (the “Perch”). Head further up on easy ground and build an anchor in blocks to the left of the Perch. There are no bolted anchors at the top. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, slings.

Follows the start of The Red Zone to the end of the ramp, then head straight up and slightly to the right, following a winding crack system all the way to the top. The crux is the last there meters beneath the top-out below the Perch. Build and anchor up and left of the Perch. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, slings.

Climb the slab plugging gear in the crack to the right while avoiding the serious barrel cactuses. Continue up the steeping face to beneath the small tree, plug a good piece, and make a move up and to the right of the tree (without grabbing it!). Then follow the slabby arête up to a two-bolt anchor at the base of the Hawk’s Perch. GEAR: Cams from .5” to 3”, nuts.

Climb up the ramp to the obvious crack that leads to an orange overhang. Get good hands to lean out and step up, plug a solid piece or two in the good crack in the dihedral, then pull up on some overhanging jugs to a small ledge. Sling a horn or two, and move up the easier ground to some big huge blocks. From here, the route becomes and alpinestyle scramble, interrupted with occasional bushy areas, following the ridgeline as high as it goes. Most will feel comfortable soloing this ridge. See the photo for the upper portion.

This “ballsy” route starts up the north angling ramp and into the steep system of short cracks and pockets, then heads straight up (pick your own way) to the top, where the angle backs off. Protection on this route is spotty, and the rock quality is marginal in spots. Climb this route carefully and beware of loose rock!!! There are no bolts or anchors on this pillar. Create a belay or top-rope anchor up on top with gear. There is an easy walk-off from the top. GEAR: A set of nuts, cams up to #2 (single stem are better to fit into pockets), and slings for knobs and horns. Tri-cams are useful in the pockets.

Start just north of the arête at the south end of the pillar, moving up on small ledges and crimps. The start is harder the closer you stay on the true arête, and easier if you climb a meter from the arête. Either way, climb through two bolts to the overhanging bulge, clip the third bolt pull onto the bulge. Then move up and pull the second bulge, then take advantage of the big features moving up and left to the anchors at the top on the south (left) side of the arete. 15 meters. Five bolts.

Pretty line in the middle of the cliff.

Starts near the north edge of the southern-most pillar of rock. Climb up the steep bottom face, plugging gear in short cracks, and head to the hammered-in knife-blade beneath the big block. Move up the left side of the block, then step out right onto the face of the block and pull up for a short rest on top of the block. Step up and move left on thin holds to plug gear in a pocket, then head straight up to some short thin cracks, plug a piece, and climb the overhanging jugs to anchor. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, a medium hex or a 2” single-stem cam (Trango #7) for the pocket (Camelots don’t fit). And balls. 14 meters.

This is a spicy alternate finish to Acme Suction Cups. After clipping the third bolt, traverse left to the arête. Climb up the overhang, plugging a big cam in the crack, then take a rest on the big ledge. Traverse left on the ledge deep into the huge dihedral to the bottom of a big flake with a crack. Climb the crack all the way to the top, plugging cams. GEAR: cams ½” to 2”. 17 meters. Note: this route is not shown in the topo photo, but it’s easy to see once you go left around the corner.

Climb straight up as close to the arête as possible through the first three bolts of Super Speed Vitamins. Extend the third bolt with a sling to prevent rope drag (clip it with an alpine draw). After the third bolt, traverse left to the arête. Head straight up straddling the arête, finding the big holds while making bouldering moves to the top. Anchors are around the corner on the south face at the very top of the pillar. GEAR: Draws for six bolts and one alpine draw or sling for the third bolt. 17 meters.

Starts one meter to the right of the south edge of the block and heads straight up the bolt line on the face, staying one meter to the right of the arête, to a two bolt anchor at the top. Five bolts. 16 meters.

Start in the dead center of the face and move straight up through loads of features. You have the option of finishing at the Fast and Furry-ous anchors to the right (14 meters) or at the Super Speed Vitamins anchors to the left (16 meters). Both options are rated 5.9.

Starting just left of the corner, climb up the steep face to a bolt, then head straight up to a short slanting crack approx.. 2.5 meters above the bolt and slightly to the right. Plug a small cam or nut, then head straight up through three more bolts to anchors. Climbing upper half just left of the bolt line goes at 5.10b, while just right of the bolt line goes 5.10c. GEAR: Draws for four bolts and one ½” cam or nut placement (BD Camelot .5 or Yellow Alien/Totem). 14 meters.

Head straight up the south arête through heavily featured yet steep terrain, staying north (right) of the true arête and angling up and right to the anchors. 14 meters.

Start beneath the obvious overhanging bulge, moving up and around the left of it, then swing right onto the bulge and move up, sling the big chicken head, and move up to a left slanting crack (takes a #2 cam) and onto a small ledge, then straight up to anchors. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, slings. 14 meters.

A steep and crimpy ride up the base of Big Red’s south face. Five bolts to the anchors of Button Up. 20 meters. You can continue up the buttress via Southpaw and T’Arete’s Syndrome all the way to the top.

It might be a 5.8 move off the ground, but once you get up 3 meters to the sloping ramp, it’s a low 5th class ride up to the anchors. Two bolts. 15 meters.

From the anchors at the top of Button Up, head up and slightly left through the steep pink face, turning the corner onto the south face, then head straight up and slightly right through a few bolts to the anchors at the big ledge. Those uncomfortable with the run-out after the third bolt can plug a small cam in a pocket. 15 meters.

From the anchors atop Button Up step up and right, clipping one bolt, then climb into the finger crack and fight your way up through 5 meters of pain. Skirt right around the huge block and climb up to the anchors. GEAR: Small to medium sized cams & nuts.

An alpine adventure that offers the easiest route off climbs #1 thru #4 (and the preferred way to rap into them). From the P2 anchors climb over and down the pillar then head up the ramp toward the airy arête. Sling the obvious pyramid horn , then traverse left and upward toward the top, plugging small cams. Pull a 5.10b/c move to the anchors if you avoid grabbing the little tree. GEAR: Small cams, slings. 25 meters.

Head up the ramp aiming for the crack in the dihedral and follow that crack as is steepens, moving up to a small roof where the crack peters out. Step out left to move up and around the overhang, then continue up and slightly right to a big, sloping ledge and move toward the base of the big, vertical crack that heads up the steep dihedral. A two bolt anchor is above a big pyramid flake at the base of the dihedral. GEAR: Cams from .5” to 3”, nuts. Pitch 2 - 5.10b Trad – Head straight up the dihedral crack, stemming and jamming and fighting your way to the big ledge 15 meters up. GEAR: Medium to large cams up to #4.

Pitch #1: Head up the dihedral with a crack in the solid black rock. Climb up to the cactus then step right onto a ledge, then move up and back left, following the finger crack in the dihedral on your left all the way up to a ledge beneath blocky black rock and a two-bolt anchor. This is a long pitch, approx. 30+ meters. If you lower off or rappel from here, WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH & CLOSE THE SYSTEM WITH KNOTS IN THE ROPE ENDS!!! Pitch #2: Climb up the short, steep face above the anchor bolts. Place a small cam or nut in the groove above the bolts to protect the move off the belay, then pull up onto a small ledge and place a tiny nut in a crack near your right hip. Traverse left and slightly up, placing another small nut to protect the second from a pendulum fall. Move to the base of the steep pink wall and build a gear belay in the excellent cracks (there are no bolts). Pitch #3: Move up the cracks, onto the huge boulder, then ascend the grey pillar, best done by moving out right onto the pillar’s north face (enjoy the exposure!). Then head straight up, working through steep, blocky terrain (the rock is better quality than it appears), until you can pull over the edge into the brush and to the two-bolt anchor on the big boulder on top. 25 meters. Do NOT move left onto the orange and grey rock below the brushy finish – that section contains loose blocks and flakes. To top completely out, climb the short face to the west up to a big ledge with bolts and chain anchors. GEAR: Double set of cams (small to #3, or add a set of hexes) and a set of small nuts.

Rap in from the top to the huge ledge and a set of anchors. Climb straight up the arête, occasionally getting into the deep dihedral, climbing up on crimpers and steep but solid rock. Watch out for wasp nests. Take a rest at the anchors on the nice ledge 2/3 of the way up, then climb easier terrain all the way to the top. 24 meters. An intermediate, two-bolt anchor is at the ledge 2/3 of the way up.

This is the climb to access the anchors on top of El Dedo. From the highest boulder on the south side of the pillar, step up and out to the right, clip a bolt, then swing onto the little ledge up and to the right, then it’s low angled, easy climbing to gain the top. One bolt. 5 meters.

Starts at the bottom of the pillar’s northeast corner, heading up a thin slab of pink rock through three bolts to an overhanging flake and corner. Find a sharp pocket on the right side of the flake and swing out left, letting it all hang out as you aim for a good left hand to save you. If you find it, pull up and through an overhanging crack (plug a #2 Camelot, and yard on it if you must), then surmount the overhang. It’s juggy smooth sailing from there to the anchors. 20 meters.

Starts at the northwest base of the formation, climbing onto the big boulder then traversing left to get to the base of the crack separating the pink and grey rock. Climb the crack, plugging gear, and mantel onto a ledge. From the ledge, finish the route via the upper half of Under My Thumb. GEAR: Small to medium cams. 20 meters.

Climbs the NW arête through three bolts to a sloping ledge. From the ledge, step out left and up and climb the overhanging face until it backs off, then head straight up to the anchors. A bit runout, so you may want to plug a #2 cam in the big crack on the slab beneath the anchors, but the climbing there is low fifth class. 20 meters.

Start on the west side of the base of the pillar, in the corner, beneath a shallow crack and groove. Move up, plugging some creative pieces in the groove, then scramble up to the sloping ledge beneath the big, obvious fist-sized crack. Plug big cams in the crack and climb your way all the way to the top. It is an easy walk-off on the back side (east) of the top. There are no anchors or bolts on this pillar. GEAR: Big cams up to #5 (or #4). Big hexes are useful too.