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Routes in Alcocer for selected grade

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Showing all 6 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The School Wall Bodeguita del Medio
5.10d Compai
Sport
Middle Buttresses Twin Fins
5.10c/d Cheesecake

Start just right of the black dihedral, climbing the smooth rock on thin holds, straight up the arête thru four bolts to a small ledge for a short rest, then continuing up the arête thru four more bolts until it backs off to a ridge and runs out (can plug a cam) to the anchors (two bolts & chains) on top of the North Fin. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

FA:

Sport 40m
Upper West Canyon Road Runner Rocks
5.10d Gravity & Anvils

Start just north of the arête at the south end of the pillar, moving up on small ledges and crimps. The start is harder the closer you stay on the true arête, and easier if you climb a meter from the arête. Either way, climb through two bolts to the overhanging bulge, clip the third bolt pull onto the bulge. Then move up and pull the second bulge, then take advantage of the big features moving up and left to the anchors at the top on the south (left) side of the arete. 15 meters. Five bolts.

Sport 15m
Upper West Canyon Big Red Buttress
5.10d War Hammer

A steep and crimpy ride up the base of Big Red’s south face. Five bolts to the anchors of Button Up. 20 meters. You can continue up the buttress via Southpaw and T’Arete’s Syndrome all the way to the top.

Sport 20m
Upper East Canyon El Dedo
5.10d A1 Hangnail

Starts at the bottom of the pillar’s northeast corner, heading up a thin slab of pink rock through three bolts to an overhanging flake and corner. Find a sharp pocket on the right side of the flake and swing out left, letting it all hang out as you aim for a good left hand to save you. If you find it, pull up and through an overhanging crack (plug a #2 Camelot, and yard on it if you must), then surmount the overhang. It’s juggy smooth sailing from there to the anchors. 20 meters.

Sport 10m
YDS_ALT:5.10 Hammer & Thunder

Starts at the northwest base of the formation, climbing onto the big boulder then traversing left to get to the base of the crack separating the pink and grey rock. Climb the crack, plugging gear, and mantel onto a ledge. From the ledge, finish the route via the upper half of Under My Thumb. GEAR: Small to medium cams. 20 meters.

Trad 20m

Showing all 6 routes.

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