El Chanchuillo

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 29
  • Ascents: 256
  • Aka: Cueva El Hoyanco




This is it - the famous El Chonta cave with steep climbing, loads of stalactites, single pitch and super steep multi-pitch lines.

Most of the cave stays shaded all day, just the right side may see some morning sun depending on the season. Be aware that there is a lot of "wildlife", namely loads of moskitos and other insects during the warmer and wetter season.

Access issues inherited from El Chonta

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 30 pesos per person as well as 30 pesos per car as per late 2019.


From Don Procopio:
Follow the road from Don Procopio. Hike down the steep hill and pass the El Amate cliffs. Continue straight on the trail between the two fences and take a left following the obvious trail. Once the trail starts climbing again, take the first obvious trail to your left and up. It will climb for a bit up and right until you reach the flat top in front of the cave. This is also where you may camp.
From Don Bartolo:
Hike down the road right of the building and follow it along the fields until you reach a road going right (in direction of the power line). At the end of this road is a small concrete bridge (if you ask and farming alows it you may even drive till there with your car). Cross the bridge and take a sharp left (right leads you to the underground river). Follow this trail and cross the field (careful!!) and the fence (sometimes the gate there is unlocked). Once you pass the fence you are on the trail that comes from Don Procopio. Just follow the trail and hike up to the cave, keeping left. This is the shorter approach to the cave.

Ethic inherited from El Chonta

Carry out all of your garbage, no chipping holds.



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Grade Route

This is the left side of the cave from the "entrance" down to the phallus feature. Great routes with good warm-ups and some real classics, enjoy!

Easiest route all the way to the left of the cave, probably not as much fun as any in the cave though! Shares the last 6 bolts and anchor with Fructisica.

Second one from left to right. Starts with the overhang behind the tree. Better than Katman, and it keeps getting better to the right! Shares last 6 bolts and anchor with Katman.

Starts with a high first bolt right of the big tree. Traverses to the right along tufas and up straight to anchors just above the small lip.

'Variant Fructaliser' with its extension after the first anchor on the more vertical terrain.

The route starting just 2 meters left of Seres Inorganicos. A tough start leads to very enjoyable climbing to a spicy finish. Shares the anchor with Seres Inorganicos.

The route just right of El Aliado. Brilliant, unique climbing that packs a punch. Solid at the grade. Last route starting on the right of the nice platform before the terrain drops steeper into the cave.

The obvious super-overhanging line that follows the "fang-line" of the left hand side of the cave. Apparently another classic!


Warning Rock: Key Tufa Broke - Much harder

This is the classic 12d/13a of the bottom of the cave. From the biggest mud platform you will be able to see in the wall, written in black at about 2.5m up, "El Jaguar". Up the tufas into multiple steep, tough, pumpy cruxes with excellent rests and moves in between. Very long!

It has many rest before the anchors, it is a good route to introduce the tufas world of el chonta, it ends in the cave of the top.

Starts just left of Mantis on enoyable tufas before it becomes steep towards the anchor.

Just left of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Climb up the tufas into inclined rooflet, crank above this and don't pump out!

This is the bottom area of the cave starting right of the big phallus feature with hard and long routes. This section ends up at the right at the right side of the arch feature with the slab below it and left of the tree directly at the cliff.

Just right of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Pumpy, fun, unique, and excellent climbing. Trends slightly right.

1 5.12c 35m
2 5.12d 35m
3 5.12c 35m
4 5.12d 35m
5 5.13a 35m
6 5.10c 25m

Mala Fama (primer largo) and these 6 pitches are the ultimate route in the cave! 5 super steep pitches followed by 2 vertical ones. Top it out at pitch 7! No anchors XD!!

For easier ticking the first and popular pitch is listed as individual route ("Mala Fama (primer largo)").

Bring about 18 draws - some (or mostly) long ones.

Set: L. Carlos García, J.C. Sutries, I. Pérez, R. Reskala, G. Rivera, I. Reyes & R. McGuire

Starts just a few meters right of Mala Fama and takes a right on the low ramp.

Starts right of the wall where Mala Fama is, just where the caves drops a bit further and has a steep start.

2nd (INCOMPLETE) pitch of Perdiendo la Forma Humana.

Starts just left of the obvious line of Mexicano Perdido.

The steep overhanging arete. Belayer, be careful!

The crack in the corner just right of Mexicano Perdido.

Starts left of the thin white tufa below the obvious big horizontal crack / slit feature on the wall.

Follows the light brown and left trending tufa line to an anchor on the light brown tufas at the edge of the steep wall. Mostly long slings! Lots of friction!

Starts just left of Mezcalito, trends left and passes the slab to an anchor up right.

1 5.9 20m
2 5.13a 10m
3 5.12d 10m
4 5.13a 24m

These are pitches 2 to 5. Together with "Tomatela Suavecito para la Corrupcion (primer largo)" this is a 5 pitch route. Bring 2 60m ropes to reach the ground!

  • Pitch 2 is a "scramble" up the well structured slab
  • Pitch 3 goes through the roof
  • Pitch 4 starts on the 2nd and smaller slab above the slab with the easy routes, you can see the anchor from below.

FA: Tomek Samitowski & Grezesiek Grochal

Starts on the right side of the steep section, goes right and left to the anchor of "Tomate Suavecito para el Campeón (primer largo)".

Access pitch to 2 extensions.

Set: Luis Carlos García Ayala, Feb 2020

Segundo largo de Mingo, a la izquierda.

Set: Luis Carlos García Ayala, Feb 2020

Segundo largo de Mingo, a la derecha.

Set: Luis Carlos Garcia Ayala, Feb 2020

This is the upper right section starting right of the tree.

Follows the right side of the arch and goes up straight in the middle over the small slab on top of the arch.

Starts left of Amate Amarillo and goes all the way up.

Ultra Classic of the easier routes in the cave. Starts just right of the tree next to the cliff and trends out left on the line of tufas.

Extension of Amate Amarillo going up high next to the "blank stripe".

Comienza a la izquierda de La Guerrera Cósmica: HAz una travesía hacia la izquierda hasta encontrarte con El Amate Amarillo.

Awesome left trending line with a distinct low crux. Follows smaller tufas to a great rest after the steepest part and continues easier but pumpy.

Starts on Guerrera Cosmica and traverses left after bolt 7 and continues on Amate Amarillo for its last 2 bolts to follow its extension (Las Tres Atenciones) to the anchors.

Left extension of Guerrera Cosmica.

Right extension of Guerrera Cosmica.

The obvious line leading through the most structured part of the wall. Slightly trending left. Bolted with glue-ins.

Extension of La Bocina.

The extension of La Bocina branching off right before the anchor of La Bocina.

The shortest line on this section of the cliff with an anhcor left above the prominent ledge next to a small tree.

A link-up of Bio and El Tigrillo.

The left extension after the ledge.

The right extension after the big ledge.

Short bouldery route with anchor just above the ledge. Starting on the ledge to the right.

This is a combination of "Vía Láctea" and "Suc de Toronja".

Trends out right of the steep part of the wall to anchors at the orange double stripe.


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