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Road Runner Rocks

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 3

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Ethic inherited from Alcocer

Ser respetuosos con la comunidad y no dejar basura.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start just north of the arête at the south end of the pillar, moving up on small ledges and crimps. The start is harder the closer you stay on the true arête, and easier if you climb a meter from the arête. Either way, climb through two bolts to the overhanging bulge, clip the third bolt pull onto the bulge. Then move up and pull the second bulge, then take advantage of the big features moving up and left to the anchors at the top on the south (left) side of the arete. 15 meters. Five bolts.

Pretty line in the middle of the cliff.

Set by Bucher, 8 Apr

FA: Bucher, 9 Apr

Starts near the north edge of the southern-most pillar of rock. Climb up the steep bottom face, plugging gear in short cracks, and head to the hammered-in knife-blade beneath the big block. Move up the left side of the block, then step out right onto the face of the block and pull up for a short rest on top of the block. Step up and move left on thin holds to plug gear in a pocket, then head straight up to some short thin cracks, plug a piece, and climb the overhanging jugs to anchor. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, a medium hex or a 2” single-stem cam (Trango #7) for the pocket (Camelots don’t fit). And balls. 14 meters.

This is a spicy alternate finish to Acme Suction Cups. After clipping the third bolt, traverse left to the arête. Climb up the overhang, plugging a big cam in the crack, then take a rest on the big ledge. Traverse left on the ledge deep into the huge dihedral to the bottom of a big flake with a crack. Climb the crack all the way to the top, plugging cams. GEAR: cams ½” to 2”. 17 meters. Note: this route is not shown in the topo photo, but it’s easy to see once you go left around the corner.

Climb straight up as close to the arête as possible through the first three bolts of Super Speed Vitamins. Extend the third bolt with a sling to prevent rope drag (clip it with an alpine draw). After the third bolt, traverse left to the arête. Head straight up straddling the arête, finding the big holds while making bouldering moves to the top. Anchors are around the corner on the south face at the very top of the pillar. GEAR: Draws for six bolts and one alpine draw or sling for the third bolt. 17 meters.

Starts one meter to the right of the south edge of the block and heads straight up the bolt line on the face, staying one meter to the right of the arête, to a two bolt anchor at the top. Five bolts. 16 meters.

Start in the dead center of the face and move straight up through loads of features. You have the option of finishing at the Fast and Furry-ous anchors to the right (14 meters) or at the Super Speed Vitamins anchors to the left (16 meters). Both options are rated 5.9.

Starting just left of the corner, climb up the steep face to a bolt, then head straight up to a short slanting crack approx.. 2.5 meters above the bolt and slightly to the right. Plug a small cam or nut, then head straight up through three more bolts to anchors. Climbing upper half just left of the bolt line goes at 5.10b, while just right of the bolt line goes 5.10c. GEAR: Draws for four bolts and one ½” cam or nut placement (BD Camelot .5 or Yellow Alien/Totem). 14 meters.

Head straight up the south arête through heavily featured yet steep terrain, staying north (right) of the true arête and angling up and right to the anchors. 14 meters.

Start beneath the obvious overhanging bulge, moving up and around the left of it, then swing right onto the bulge and move up, sling the big chicken head, and move up to a left slanting crack (takes a #2 cam) and onto a small ledge, then straight up to anchors. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, slings. 14 meters.

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