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Big Red Buttress

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 1

Seasonality

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Approach

Hike up to and above the Pulpit, then follow animal trails all the way up to the top of the bluff to rappel to the base of the routes. It’s approx 1.5 km and 300m of altitude gain from the parking lot across from the School Wall. You can approach from down in the canyon, hiking up staying as close to the west-side bluffs as possible, but it involves some bushwacking.

Ethic inherited from Alcocer

Ser respetuosos con la comunidad y no dejar basura.

Routes

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Grade Route

A steep and crimpy ride up the base of Big Red’s south face. Five bolts to the anchors of Button Up. 20 meters. You can continue up the buttress via Southpaw and T’Arete’s Syndrome all the way to the top.

It might be a 5.8 move off the ground, but once you get up 3 meters to the sloping ramp, it’s a low 5th class ride up to the anchors. Two bolts. 15 meters.

From the anchors at the top of Button Up, head up and slightly left through the steep pink face, turning the corner onto the south face, then head straight up and slightly right through a few bolts to the anchors at the big ledge. Those uncomfortable with the run-out after the third bolt can plug a small cam in a pocket. 15 meters.

From the anchors atop Button Up step up and right, clipping one bolt, then climb into the finger crack and fight your way up through 5 meters of pain. Skirt right around the huge block and climb up to the anchors. GEAR: Small to medium sized cams & nuts.

An alpine adventure that offers the easiest route off climbs #1 thru #4 (and the preferred way to rap into them). From the P2 anchors climb over and down the pillar then head up the ramp toward the airy arête. Sling the obvious pyramid horn , then traverse left and upward toward the top, plugging small cams. Pull a 5.10b/c move to the anchors if you avoid grabbing the little tree. GEAR: Small cams, slings. 25 meters.

Head up the ramp aiming for the crack in the dihedral and follow that crack as is steepens, moving up to a small roof where the crack peters out. Step out left to move up and around the overhang, then continue up and slightly right to a big, sloping ledge and move toward the base of the big, vertical crack that heads up the steep dihedral. A two bolt anchor is above a big pyramid flake at the base of the dihedral. GEAR: Cams from .5” to 3”, nuts. Pitch 2 - 5.10b Trad – Head straight up the dihedral crack, stemming and jamming and fighting your way to the big ledge 15 meters up. GEAR: Medium to large cams up to #4.

Pitch #1: Head up the dihedral with a crack in the solid black rock. Climb up to the cactus then step right onto a ledge, then move up and back left, following the finger crack in the dihedral on your left all the way up to a ledge beneath blocky black rock and a two-bolt anchor. This is a long pitch, approx. 30+ meters. If you lower off or rappel from here, WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH & CLOSE THE SYSTEM WITH KNOTS IN THE ROPE ENDS!!! Pitch #2: Climb up the short, steep face above the anchor bolts. Place a small cam or nut in the groove above the bolts to protect the move off the belay, then pull up onto a small ledge and place a tiny nut in a crack near your right hip. Traverse left and slightly up, placing another small nut to protect the second from a pendulum fall. Move to the base of the steep pink wall and build a gear belay in the excellent cracks (there are no bolts). Pitch #3: Move up the cracks, onto the huge boulder, then ascend the grey pillar, best done by moving out right onto the pillar’s north face (enjoy the exposure!). Then head straight up, working through steep, blocky terrain (the rock is better quality than it appears), until you can pull over the edge into the brush and to the two-bolt anchor on the big boulder on top. 25 meters. Do NOT move left onto the orange and grey rock below the brushy finish – that section contains loose blocks and flakes. To top completely out, climb the short face to the west up to a big ledge with bolts and chain anchors. GEAR: Double set of cams (small to #3, or add a set of hexes) and a set of small nuts.

Rap in from the top to the huge ledge and a set of anchors. Climb straight up the arête, occasionally getting into the deep dihedral, climbing up on crimpers and steep but solid rock. Watch out for wasp nests. Take a rest at the anchors on the nice ledge 2/3 of the way up, then climb easier terrain all the way to the top. 24 meters. An intermediate, two-bolt anchor is at the ledge 2/3 of the way up.

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