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El Dedo

  • Grade context: US

Approach

It’s best to park at the north-east parking area (see front page “Directions”). From the parking, hike due south cross country, keeping the steep bluff on your left, and head down the road to the arroyo, where a path along the stream bed leads south and southeast, eventually crossing the stream as you head south into the main canyon. Stay east (left) of the stream bed in the main canyon, and hike upward (south) on animal trails until you reach the Dedo, which is visible on nearly the entire approach. Approx. 1.5 km, 200m of elevation gain, and about 20-30 minutes.

Ethic inherited from Alcocer

Ser respetuosos con la comunidad y no dejar basura.

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the climb to access the anchors on top of El Dedo. From the highest boulder on the south side of the pillar, step up and out to the right, clip a bolt, then swing onto the little ledge up and to the right, then it’s low angled, easy climbing to gain the top. One bolt. 5 meters.

Starts at the bottom of the pillar’s northeast corner, heading up a thin slab of pink rock through three bolts to an overhanging flake and corner. Find a sharp pocket on the right side of the flake and swing out left, letting it all hang out as you aim for a good left hand to save you. If you find it, pull up and through an overhanging crack (plug a #2 Camelot, and yard on it if you must), then surmount the overhang. It’s juggy smooth sailing from there to the anchors. 20 meters.

Starts at the northwest base of the formation, climbing onto the big boulder then traversing left to get to the base of the crack separating the pink and grey rock. Climb the crack, plugging gear, and mantel onto a ledge. From the ledge, finish the route via the upper half of Under My Thumb. GEAR: Small to medium cams. 20 meters.

Climbs the NW arête through three bolts to a sloping ledge. From the ledge, step out left and up and climb the overhanging face until it backs off, then head straight up to the anchors. A bit runout, so you may want to plug a #2 cam in the big crack on the slab beneath the anchors, but the climbing there is low fifth class. 20 meters.

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