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Wild West Pillars

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 2

Seasonality

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Approach

From the southwest parking area, take a path down to the arroyo and head south/southeast, crossing the arroyo and then following a path that follows the arroyo south. The pillars will be visible to the southwest. After about 250 meters, a faint path crossed the arroyo to the west (you will crawl under a barbed wire fence). Look for and follow a faint path uphill to the west that turns left (south) and continues uphill heading pretty much straight to the towers. A bit of bushwhacking may be necessary depending upon the season. 800m, +100m elevation, 20 minutes.

Ethic inherited from Alcocer

Ser respetuosos con la comunidad y no dejar basura.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts on the south side of this pillar and heads straight up the orange, overhanging face. Don’t panic – it’s pumpy and overhanging, but there is always a beautiful jug right where you want it. Four bolts to the anchor on top. 14 meters.

Climb up the dark, featured rock to a huge ledge, then move to the steep orange face and climb up on thin, crimpy holds to the anchors. Five bolts. 14 meters.

Start at the base of the obvious narrow ridge and climb all the way to the top, staying on the arête. Anchors are on the face to the right. Five bolts. 15 meters.

Start 1.5 meters to the right of the arête and climb straight up the face. Requires some gymnastic moves and balanced postures. Finishes at the same anchors for Ambush Ridge. Four bolts. 15 meters.

Climbs up the obvious big dihedral on beautiful black rock to a ledge with a big tree. Sling the tree for protection then move up the wall on the right of the dihedral plugging cams all the way to anchors at the very top. Do NOT touch the huge chockstone! It moves and may come loose! 18 meters. GEAR: Cams to #3, slings.

Starts directly above the two intimidating huge barrel cactuses. Climb to the bolt and don’t fall or your saddle will never be the same. Ascend the crack then reach a bolt beneath the overhanging huge block. Surmount the block, clip another bolt, and mantle up to the anchors. Three bolts. 14 meters. GEAR: draws and a #1 cam for the crack.

Climb the arête of the pillar on steep, delicate holds through two bolts, then head up and left to a third bolt beneath the huge block. Head straight up through and onto the block and to the anchors. 14 meters. Four bolts. The first bolt is high, so most will plug a cam in the big crack to the right (#2 or #3 Camelot).

Climbs the crack and dihedral on the right side of the pillar. A 5.8 start leads to an alpinestyle scramble around the top of the pillar. This is the shortest path to top of the pillar. Best to lower or rap off the Train Robbers anchors. 15 meters. GEAR: Cams from .5” to 3”, a sling for a chockstone, & a hex or two.

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