Help

Twin Fins

  • Grade context: US

Approach

For approaching the base of the Twin Fins, The Hawk’s Perch, Rapter Ridge, and The Flower Tower (in that order), simply follow trails south up the canyon. Be sure to aim to the right, staying up-hill (do not be tempted to take easier, clearer paths that head downhill into the canyon – these make for much harder up-hill bushwhacking to reach the bases of the walls). Each of the areas are roughly 25 to 50 meters further from the previous ones, and perhaps 5 or 10 minutes of additional hiking.

Ethic inherited from Alcocer

Ser respetuosos con la comunidad y no dejar basura.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Climb up the central crack for 5 meters, then sling knobs and horns all the way to the top. No anchor at top. Can build a trad anchor at the top for top rope or to bring up a second. Approx. 30 meters. Can also walk off the top. GEAR: Small to medium cams, slings.

Follows start of Pura Vida for three bolts then heads up and left to the fourth bolt, with a run-out to the top that can be protected by placing a #1 cam in the crack above. Ends at the same anchors for Pura Vida. 20 meters.

Climb up the line of five bolts to an anchor on a small ledge (two bolts and chains at the anchor). Can plug a small cam between bolt 4 and 5 for added protection if feeling the “pura vida”. 20 meters.

Climb straight up the dihedral, plugging gear in the dihedral’s crack, the step right to get over the large block, finishing with a brushy scramble to the top. No top anchors. Best to walk off. GEAR: cams and nuts. 25 meters.

Start at the base of the short, steep face 2 meters north of the dihedral and head straight up the arête, staying to the right along the edge, plugging gear where you can find it (it’s sparse but there when needed). Head up to the big block at the top, traverse up its left sloping edge, then plug a piece in the big dihedral and move to the anchors of Pura Vida. 25 meters. GEAR: Small cams up to #2, nuts, slings.

Start just right of the black dihedral, climbing the smooth rock on thin holds, straight up the arête thru four bolts to a small ledge for a short rest, then continuing up the arête thru four more bolts until it backs off to a ridge and runs out (can plug a cam) to the anchors (two bolts & chains) on top of the North Fin. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

FA:

Starts on the featured face four meters north of LA COLUMNA. Climb up to the featured short face to the ledge, stepping over the cactuses to get onto the upper wall staying two meters to the right of the arête, then directly up the overhanging face via jug holds, topping out at anchors on the North Fin. GEAR: Top rope for now – we plan to bolt this route. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

From the anchor on the ledge beneath the Fins climb up the vertical and overhanging bolt line toward the tip of the North Fin through five bolts, then up a short, low-angled ridge to the anchors at the top of the North Fin. 20 meters to anchors from ledge.

From the ledge beneath the Fins, climb the black dihedral at the north end of the ledge, stemming if needed, up to a small dirty ledge beneath a big chockstone. Go over the chockstone and into the wide chimney, finishing either up to the right to the anchors for SAMBA and DOCTOR LOVE or up and to the left to the anchors on the top of the North Fin. GEAR: Cams from #.5 to #3 and a small nut or two. 20 meters to anchors from ledge.

Starts just to the north of the bottom of the Fins, up easy ground to the first bolt, then up over a big step to a second bolt beneath a tiny cave. Climb up and left, following a crack system to the large, sloping ledge. Step up onto the ledge and toward the large chimney and chockstone above FRANKIE FOUR FINGERS, finishing the same as that route. GEAR: Cams from .5 to #1, a #3, and/or some medium nuts. Variation: Upon reaching the large sloping ledge, you can move to the right beneath the small roof, clip the bolt, and finish up through the roof as for DOCTOR LOVE. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

Climb through the first bolt of Samba, moving right to the obvious crack system. Ascend the cracks straight up, lying back off the big flake, then up to the sloping ledge to a bolt beneath the small roof. Move up and grab the big tongue of rock (Gene Simmons-sized) on the roof, puling the roof to a small ledge and another bolt. Step left and up the bulging rock onto the ridge and to the anchors (two bolts and chains). GEAR: small to medium sized cams and nuts. Save the #.75 for protecting the move to get over the roof. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Twin Fins.