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Quiote Buttress

  • Grade context: US
  • Approach time: 10-20 Min
1

Summary

This is the foot of the North side of the Pena.

Access issues inherited from Rancho Chichi'Dho

See "Access" in main section.

Ethic inherited from Rancho Chichi'Dho

See "Ethic" in main section.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.10-
2 5.7
3 5.7
4 5.10-
5 5.8
6 5.7
7 5.10-
8 5.7
9 5.7
10 5.9
11 5.8
12 5.9
13 5.10-

Born from the vision of Jerry and Annette Daniels, Wings of the Wind starts at the base of the Pena Gorda following a series of ramps and faces to join the upper pitches of Filo Noroccidental making a superb route of 14 pitches. Completed in 2020 over a 2 month period the pair lead bolted every pitch to make an authentic journey through the immaculate stone of the Pena De Bernal.

Pitch 4: there are two options for climbing pitch 4, one goes straight up the gold face at 10+ and the other starts slightly to the left and follows an arching curve at 10-.

Pitch 10: 4 alpine draws are very helpful for eliminating rope drag on pitch 10! The are needed at the first three bolts after the step-across move.

Pitch 11: bypass the two gluein bolts and continue up to the next set of anchors at 40m.

Pitch 13: at the top of 13 use new gluein bolts 5m past the old rusty anchor bolts to belay.

FA:

Set by Annette Daniels & Jerry Daniels, 6 Apr

FFA: Annette Daniels & Jerry Daniels, 30 Apr

FA: Jerry Daniels & Annette Daniels, 30 Apr

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