Routes in Peña de Bernal

Start where the initial right foot of Tsunami is with your left. Hard topout.

Sit start right of arete. Powerful then easy.

Sit start on right gaston and left crimp, exit right through triangle.

Sit start in good holds. Straight up crimpers. Mega classic!

Sit start to the right of BAS, on good sidepull to bad crimps.

First route after the ravine.

Start on undercling and crimp beneath the roof, and exit straight to a large hold.

Located to the right of "Prohibido caerse" at the back of the boulder. Starts either on an undercling or lateral holds.

Left of ETDA, slopey roofy line.

Same line as DC, but don't jump.

Start sitting just before the big step down, and traverse right as per Sueños Guajiros.

Left of ESP.

Tighten your laces for this one. Super tecky start on small feet and hands lead to a super finish. Don't let your guard down!

Right of EFS.

To the right of RPG, sit start on sloper and crimp. Powerful.

Left of CF, sit start on undercling and right crimp. Highball.

Stand start on huge spike. Up and slightly right.

The obvious slopey lip on the left hand face. Start right and traverse left to and obvious exit.

Same start as Eisberg, but follow the line to the left. Hard for the grade.

Last route on the right side of the wall, crumbly and with wide bolt spacing.

Sit start in a good undercling and follow the highball arete.

The entire wall left of ETDLV. Easy.

Sit start all the way to the right, traversing left and exiting with slopers. Fun.

Start as Fusion, but when you get to the first good hold keep going left and up.

When going down, it's the first line you see. Stand start on left pinch and right hand undercling. Hard on the shoulders.

First route on the left when entering the Ravine. Crimpy.

This is the classic Bernalina! Epic multi-pitch. To descend, preferably have somebody who has gotten to the top and rapped down before. You will need two ropes. You can either rap down the way you came (only recommended if you can't find the rap station that I will tell you about in a sec) or you go to the cross, go down to the left of it, scramble all the way down and right to a huge drop (slab of white rock), here be VERY careful or have your buddy secure you so you can go and find the anchors from which you can rap down to a place where you can walk off to the right until you find a via ferrata, where you rap again another, more positive slab. From there on, scamble down. If you go on the rap near the cross, a single 60m ropes will be enough, there's an intermediate station on the first rap.

1. 4 bolts + anchor

2. 4 bolts + anchor

3. 10 bolts + anchor

4. 4 bolts + anchor (long or alpine draws recommended)

5. 2 bolts + anchor (~20m walk / scramble on the ledge to the base of P6)

6. 15 bolts + anchor (some bolts can be skipped since a lot of them are very close together)

7. 1 bolt + anchor

P1 & P2 can be easily linked with a 60m rope, and you still have 5~7m of rope left.

P6 & P7 can be linked in one go with a 60m rope (barely 2~3m left) as long as you build the anchor on the first point (there are 4 anchor at the top at least).

Sit start on sloping crimp and go up the edge without using the right hand crimps.

Located to the right of "Plumas Voladoras." Traverse on the lip with heel hooks and slopers.

Left of ETDA, start on two opposing crimps and throw for a hard tricep move. Short but fun.

Left of LS, sit start on crimps. Straight up through crimps. Great line.

Start as El Alacran and traverse right to finish as per SG.

If coming from Boulder City, go left (straight) when you reach El Capitan Calzon. This is the first route on the left face with the roof. The bolts have been chopped.

Fun right leaning ramp leads to an interesting crux up high. Watch out for the sting at the end.

Right of U1.

Same start as DE, but go right on crimps, slopers and long moves.

EGC, but as a dyno.

Same start as Dengue but go to the left.

On the face to the right of Katana, slab it out.

Sit start sidepull. Traverse right. Compression and heel hooks.

The most right bolted route on the South Wall. It is about 30m uphill from La Bernalina.

1. 20m (5.6) 6 bolts + anchor

2. 25m (5.7) 8 bolts + anchor

Both pitches can be combined into one.

On the first piled boulder you see, go through the "ravine" and sit start on the right of the corner of the right hand boulder. Watch out for the rock behind you.

Sit start on left edge and bad right sidepull.

Leftmost line on the back face of this boulder, start on side undercling on the left, powerful moves on prow to the right.

First problem if coming from Las Afueras. Two holds, dyno with both hands to slopers. Fun and unique.

To the right of HDHYP, sit start at the bottom left of the little cave, this problem goes up and left of the prow.

Right of LL.

From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. Walk past the ramp-like feature on your left. King Kong is identifiable for a round, nook-like intentation in the rock right below three close bolts.

1. 5.10c. Start off with a small boulder problem between bolt 1 and 3. Solid, fluid climbing thereon. - 11 quickdraws + R

2. 5.10b. A small ledge early on, followed by crimpy, vertical face climbing makes for an interesting pitch. Then a scramble up to the most comfortable belay ledges of the 4 pitches.

3. 5.10a. Relaxed, highly featured climbing. - 12 quickdraws + R

4. 5.10c. This is the King Kong pitch. Go up an eroded, water slide-looking feature, with sharp, funky holds on each side. Unique, gorgeous rock. Makes it all worth it. From here, you can continue four more pitches to the top of the so-called King Kong buttress.

5. 5.7. Go all the way up heading left through a funky scramble, follow the bolts up to a first set of chains on a comfy ledge where you can belay from above or follow the scramble up and left to a second set of chains on a comfy ledge also (if you do this, use a large quick draw to avoid rope drag)

6. 5.10b. From the belay station there is a deep ditch where you need to climb down before continue way up to the route. Sloppery holds and hidden crimps.

7. 5.10a. Bolts on this pitch tend to be spaced between each other but holds are in good condition. There is a set of chain which you can skip up to the next set.

8. 5.4. All the way up to the shoulder where the dirt ledge starts, follow the metal cable to the left to a set of anchors or continue up to a second set of anchors right in the summiit.

Rap down the route following the bolts, exactly were you climbed up. There as been many people who mistaken the rap route and got in trouble.

Only bolted route on the Sunshine Wall as of Dec 2022 (All other routes have fixed hangers), it is also one of the classics and less busy.

The start is at the top of the ramp on the left when facing the black streak.

It is best to go back down through la Via Ferrata, see details in La Bernalina.

As EFDTC, but use the right hand crimps.

Line on the visible face of the boulder from the main trail. Easy.

First line on the corner if coming from Los Suburbios.

To the left of El Abuelo. Same style, but harder.

Nice tall boulder. It is the start of a route finishing in obvious good hold.

If coming from Boulder City, go right when you reach El Capitan Calzon. This is the first route on the right face.

A tricky start leads to some wild climbing up high. An instant classic.

Right of U2.

Go around the corner right of Revolver. Sit start on line of slopers to going left to right to a nice and desperate finish.

Left of EGC on the arete.

Sit start on slopers over the rock, the line passes through the three finger pocket. Good spotter needed.

To the right of La Banca, easy warm-up on a slab.

Start on crimps, and jump to better holds, same side as the side by which you arrive.

Comienzas en un under izquierdo y un lateral derecho y pies cercanos a la base de la roca, haces una travesia hacia la izquierda por abajo de la panza hasta salir al bloque de carrusel

On the first piled boulder you see, go through the "ravine" and sit start on the left of the corner of the right hand boulder.

Line to the right of the rock.

Same as Navi but instead of exiting straight continue along the prow to right pinches.

Dyno of Carenalga and then traverse right on slopers.

Sit start on good sidepull and good left pinch at the right of the prow. Fun, long, compression moves.

Right of La Loca.

From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. Walk past the ramp-like feature on your left. King Kong is identifiable for a round, nook-like intentation in the rock right below three close bolts.

1. 5.10c. Start off with a small boulder problem between bolt 1 and 3. Solid, fluid climbing thereon. - 11 quickdraws + R

2. 5.10b. A small ledge early on, followed by crimpy, vertical face climbing makes for an interesting pitch. Then a scramble up to the most comfortable belay ledges of the 4 pitches.

3. 5.10a. Relaxed, highly featured climbing. - 12 quickdraws + R

4. 5.10c. This is the King Kong pitch. Go up an eroded, water slide-looking feature, with sharp, funky holds on each side. Unique, gorgeous rock. Makes it all worth it. From here, you can continue four more pitches to the top of the so-called King Kong buttress.

5. 5.7. Go all the way up heading left through a funky scramble, follow the bolts up to a first set of chains on a comfy ledge where you can belay from above or follow the scramble up and left to a second set of chains on a comfy ledge also (if you do this, use a large quick draw to avoid rope drag)

6. 5.10b. From the belay station there is a deep ditch where you need to climb down before continue way up to the route. Sloppery holds and hidden crimps.

7. 5.10a. Bolts on this pitch tend to be spaced between each other but holds are in good condition. There is a set of chain which you can skip up to the next set.

8. 5.4. All the way up to the shoulder where the dirt ledge starts, follow the metal cable to the left to a set of anchors or continue up to a second set of anchors right in the summiit.

Rap down the route following the bolts, exactly were you climbed up. There as been many people who mistaken the rap route and got in trouble.

Un multilargo muy bonito, el inicio es lo más duro de la ruta. Para identificarle los bolts son rosas. En el 2° largo se debe hacer una travesía a la izq para juntarse con La Bernalina o travesía a la derecha para seguir en ELODLL. A la derecha el grado es más fuerte.

As EFDTC, but go straight through the slab.

Sit start In the middle-left of the right face. Traverse left and topout.

Left of LS, sit start on crimpy pockets.

A crack for adventurers, psychological.

Start jumping to a good hold on the low part of the step and go up and right and then downclimb past the step.

Right of LL.

Born from the vision of Jerry and Annette Daniels, Wings of the Wind starts at the base of the Pena Gorda following a series of ramps and faces to join the upper pitches of Filo Noroccidental making a superb route of 14 pitches. Completed in 2020 over a 2 month period the pair lead bolted every pitch to make an authentic journey through the immaculate stone of the Pena De Bernal.

Pitch 4: there are two options for climbing pitch 4, one goes straight up the gold face at 10+ and the other starts slightly to the left and follows an arching curve at 10- but can be french freed.

Pitch 6: From the top of pitch 6 use the cable hand rail and walk 50 feet to the right to the start of pitch 7.

Pitch 7: At the top of pitch 7 coil the rope and walk on clean rock trending right to the start of the trail on the right hand side of the wall. Follow the trail down to the base of pitch 8.

Pitch 10: 4 alpine draws are very helpful for eliminating rope drag on pitch 10! The are needed at the first three bolts after the step-across move.

Pitch 11: bypass the two glue in bolts and continue up to the next set of anchors at 40m.

Pitch 13: at the top of 13 use new glue in bolts 5m past the old rusty anchor bolts to belay.

It is possible to link pitches 2 and 3. pitches 5 and 6. pitches 8 and 9 can also be linked but a running belay of 30 feet is needed due to the length of the pitches.

Right of U3.

Kind of lost in the bushes. Start on the right face and go left of the edge.

To the left of the project arete. Stand start going for slopers on arete to exit on jugs on the right.

Sit start to the left of the rock on slopers. Fun compression moves through left edge. Highball.

On the right corner of the slabby face/left corner of overhanging right face. Climb the arete/prow to exit right.

Open proj.

On the first piled boulder you see, go through the "ravine" start on crimp right of El Novato. Throw up!

Sit start on good hold on left side of boulder and go up the arete.

Sit start at the bottom right of the cave on right sidepull sloper. Join up with Vega.

Same start as Carenalga but go left on interesting steps. Exit as Floripondia.

Sit start as Psicosomatico but go straight on good sidepulls.

Right of LN and deepest route in the ravine.

Located on the north side of la peña on the Quiote buttress with access from Chichi-Dho. It is a well bolted 4 pitch route, takes a standard 12 draw rack and a 60 meter rope.

Rappel the route; each anchor is bolted with three anchor bolts with two having chains and one extra bolt. The top anchor has bolts and rings for rope management on rappel.

1. 5.10c, a crux start with very specific balancy moves, that get your attention at the beginning of the climb.

2. 5.10a, step slightly right and find a variety of patina's that range from small scoops and edges to chicken heads.

3. 5.8, a slabby characteristic with smooth and rounded holds up a finger that runs along a gully garden of cactus.

4. 5.9, step across the gully and begin on an arette with blocky moves and attention getting exposure.

Top out on a large ledge with a small cactus garden. There is an anchor with rings that facilitate good rope management on rappel and an additional bolt for the safety of a second person.

To the right of Gigio (right of La Bernalina). Better protected than LB.

Sit start right of the slab of TCDLS. Slab out.