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Description

This is the large expanse of rock facing southwards into the Potrero on the east-side. It starts out just above the aroyo, and extends up to obvious bend i the wall characterized by a steep orange bulge topped by a gray bulb -- or from the road to about 400m up the wall.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Approach

This crag is located in the back of the Potrero Chico area. Walk through the canyon to the back past the cattle guard. After crossing the cattle guard cross over the arroyo on the left and this is the bottom of the big wall that is the backside of El Potrero Chico.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little farbolted, but thats how they were setted, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just sens a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.7
2 5.9
3 5.10b
4 5.6
5 5.9
6 5.7

Six pitch mountaineering route with bolts. Lots of fun.

Descent is tricky.

FA: Dane Bass, Matt Greco, Ralph Vega & Dottie Cross

Climb "Dope Ninja" then continue up the ridge to a large ledge. Easier terrain, 3 pitches up a headwall, short pitch out right, up a dihedral.

Walk along top to top of "Devotion" and rappel that for the descent.

FA: Hunter Brown & The Ticos, 2017

FA: Costa Rican Team, 2017

1 5.8
2 5.10b
3 5.9

FA: Rusty Baillie & Magic Ed

FA: Tami

Recently re-bolted (as of 2014), 8 bolts to first anchor and 3 for the extension. 5.10a to intermediate anchor, 5.10b to final anchor.

FA: Mike Quigley & Magic Ed

FA: Kurt Smith

FA: Jon Prado

1
2 5.10d
3 5.10
4 5.9
5 5.9
6 5.9
7 5.9

FA: Curtis Mai & Todd McCray

Climbs the left side of the bulge, right of Snott Girlz.

FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby

1 5.10
2 5.10c
3 5.10a
4 5.10a
5 5.10a

First pitch was originally climbed as a trad route called, "The Adventures of Mr Bean".

Doesn't start from the base -- access by "Cactus Dancing" or "Pins and Needles".

Doesn't start from the base -- access by "Cactus Dancing" or "Pins and Needles".

1
2 5.11+

retro-bolted trad route.

retro-bolted trad route

1
2 5.11+
3 5.12-

FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby

1 35m
2 5.11a 26m

Starts in the corner just where there is an old tree trunk looking out behind some rocks. Climb up at the crack and slightly left to the obvious bulge that you can pass left or right and then cruise through good jugs to the anchor of P1. P1 11 bolts, P2 10 bolts

FA: Kim Carpenter & Dane Bass

1
2 5.12a

FA: Kim Carpenter & Dane Bass

Starts with a high first bolt next to the hueco.

1
2 5.10a
3 5.10c
4 5.9
5 5.10d
6 5.9
7 5.7

FA: Paul Irby & Magic Ed

Same anchor as first pitch of Treasure of the Sierra madre. You may also clip the last 2 bolts, take gear from 0.5 to 2.

Shares anchor with "Juggalo".

retro-bolted trad route

1
2 5.10b
3 5.11a

Has a name plate.

1 5.10a 18m
2 5.10d 18m

First pitch 7, second 8 bolts. Has a name plate, passes at the white tufa at the beginning of pitch 2.

Starts in the corner with some lay backing.

1 5.10
2 5.10+
1
2 5.11c
3 5.12a

FA: Jim Taylor, Daniel D. Eubank & Myrick, 2002

1
2 5.10d
3 5.10c

FA: Jim Taylor & Dane Bass, 2003

1
2 5.12a

A new big multi-pitch route on the Mota wall. Still has some loose rock so be prepared. P1 - 5.7 P2 - 5.9+ P3 - 5.11c (variation 5.10b) P4 - 5.10c P5 - 5.12a P6 - 5.10b P7 - 5.10a P8 - 5.9

Rap beta : You can rap from the top of Pitch 8 to the top of Pitch 6 Take a 70 m rope.

FFA: Kristen Shelburg, Magic Ed & Amy Yeyoda

FA: Magic Ed

1 5.0
2 5.12a
3 5.13a

Activity

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