Showing all 5 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.10b | ★★ 5 A.M. Breakfast
1
5.9
2
5.9
3
5.10a
4
5.9
5
5.10b
6
5.8
Towards the top of the Tarahumara Pass there is 5 AM Breakfast. After scrambling up through a bunch of 4th class you will find yourself at the base of this climb. Approach: From the same path that leads to "Zapatista Wall" / "Land of the Free Wall", follow indications towards the "Tarahumara Pass", making your way up. Once you reach a large scree field and start seeing branching paths, start looking left for a path that will soon (50m) become 3rd class, then 4th class. Once on the correct path, it is very obvious. If doubting your choice of path, you're probably on the wrong one. The path is almost lined up with the smaller peak on the ridge after buzz rock. Some may want a quick belay across the more exposed part of the approach. There is a sling nest to belay a second from if needed. DO NOT rappel of of it into the left gully on the way down, some have reported bad experiences. Max bolts per pitch 9.
Rap beta : *With a 70 m rope you can rap the last two pitches as one. Then single raps to the ground. *With a 60 m rope you need to do the short rap of the last pitch. Rap the 6 pitches of the route. *With twin ropes, rappel from the top of to the anchor of P3. Then a single-length rappel. Then you could make it to the ground and walk around the pillar back to the start (bush + cactus) or make two more single raps to get back the way you came up. | 150m, 6, 9 | |||
5.10d | ★ Blackstar
1
5.10d
2
5.10d
3
5.8
Accessible via short fixed line from the anchors of 5 am Breakfast to a nameplate. Worth it since you will never do the 5am Breakfast approach again and the summit is fantastic (with a register).
FA: Brian Tickle & Frank Madden, 16 Feb 2017 FFA: Brian Tickle & Evan Larsell, 20 Feb 2017 | 75m, 3, 10 | |||
5.11c | ★ Border Dog
Shares top belay with "Dos Mundos". | 50m, 2 | |||
5.12a | Dos Mundos
Shares top anchor with "Border Dog". | 50m, 2 | |||
5.12 | Peace, Love Flowers
This route is located at the end of the Tarahumara Pass on the great wall on the left side. The beginning of the route is identified by a small pillar of stones as a reference. The base was cleaned by removing loose rock and thorny plants. Esta ruta se ubica al final del paso Tarahumara, en la gran pared de lado izquierdo. El inicio de la ruta la identificas por pequeño pilar de piedras como referencia. Se hizo limpieza de la base quitando roca suelta y plantas espinosas. Pitch 1: 5.9+ (9 bolts + anchors) Pitch 2: 5.12- (14 bolts + anchors) FA: Ferris Kilpatrick & Conner Larsen, 15 Feb 2019 | 53m, 2, 16 |
Showing all 5 routes.